So I took y'all's advice and didn't media blast my ST-10. I've cleaned on it with wire brushes/wheels enough that I'm about 95% done cleaning and should be painting in a couple of days. That brings up a couple of questions: 1. Should I paint or not paint the front surface where it bolts to the bell housing? I'm thinking that an uneven coat of paint could throw off the precision of the mating surfaces somewhat. My first inclination is to not paint it. Should I paint it anyway? 2. Trans will get painted black. Is there any reason I shouldn't just use Rustoleum rattle can black? Notes: this goes in a '31 Model A sedan this will NOT be a show car although I want it to look as presentable as possible body will be shiny black I live on a gravel road with splash aprons and running boards no one will ever see the trans unless they get their face right down at ground level to look underneath I'll put bolts into the shifter locator holes to keep paint out of the threads I'll tape off the shafts sticking out that the shifter levers connect to engine and bell housing will also be black, but when that time comes I'll use a higher quality glossy paint and spray with compressor/gun 3. I'll wipe it down with lacquer thinner and a tack cloth prior to painting. Should I do something more or different?
Iron case, right? Chevy never bothered painting the cases, as you can probably tell....and they get rusty if exposed to the elements. You won't hurt anything by painting the front of the case. Mask off the area where the TO bearing rides, on the front bearing retainer.
Yep; iron case. There are several pix in the thread that I linked to in the very first sentence above, this thread: Technical - Anyone ever sandblasted a 4-sp case??? | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)
One more question: you'll see a vent in this (pre-cleaning) pic: Am I in danger of screwing something up if I don't seal this off before painting?
Dupli-Color Ceramic " Cast Coat Iron Engine Enamel with Ceramic " SKU: DE1651 might be a solution. Looks just like @mgtstumpy's clean, sand blasted cast iron. It's tough, I've used it on exhaust manifolds and nothing seems to hurt it.
you don't need to remove the vent before you paint....but you're likely to screw up the vent by trying to remove it, it's a press fit.
As said mask the front bearing retainer and let it fly. Don’t overthink this stuff, it really is that easy.
I’d put a fine film of grease on the mating surface and paint the transmission. Eastwood header paint in dark gray is really tough stuff in a brush can. Do the top in black if you can see it in the engine compartment and the lower surface with something tougher to take the gravel.
Clean it some more! Wipe with lacquer thinner or Brakleen (I love this stuff!) I like to spray a light color ...makes it easier IF you do get a leak to find where it'd coming from. (I think I used a light grey header paint) IF an Alum. bell I would super clean it and use clear on it. The clear will darken it some but still looks good IMHO 6sally6
Rust is traditional, but I won't have it on my cars. This is the T5 in my roadster. I stood it up on a crate so I didn't have to mask the front. Put a spray can lid over the tail shaft. loosened all the bolts so I could get paint under them, then after painting I removed, cleaned, polished and replaced the hardware. Polished the brass plugs and cleaned up the tag and put it back on. You know what they say, "Shininess is next to godliness" or something to that effect.
I never thought of standing it on end. Genius! I was going to paint it on an engine stand (horizontally) but would have to turn it every other day or so; never getting any one coat on the entire unit. I'll take it off of the engine stand and stand it on end. Here is what it looks like right now. It's within a half hour or so of being ready for paint.
One thing about leaving the front unpainted--if it get moisture on it, which it likely will, you might get some rust stains showing up around the trans to bellhousing crevice. Which won't hurt anything, it just might look bad.
Good thinking. I'm always amazed by all the things other folks on here think of that I never do. I'm pretty challenged when it comes to thinking outside the box; or even seeing all the downfalls or possibilities of a process.
In my other thread on cleaning the case (Anyone ever sandblasted a 4-sp case???) DDDenny suggested bare metal self etching primer. Specifically this stuff https://www.duplicolor.com/product/self-etching-primer/ Sounds good to me. I'll have to go to the shop and look on the shelf, but I think I have it already. Living out in the boonies we try to combine trips to town so it might be several days before I can pick some up if I don't already have it.
I don't even use self etching primer when I get a car ready to paint...all that stuff underneath, gets two or three coats of spray can black. I did paint a suspension crossmember with primer once before painting it black, and the rock chips showed up nice and clear. No more primer after that.
I used a couple of spray can's of easy off oven cleaner to remove all the grease & gunk, hosed it off and let it dry, then sprayed with dupli-color cast metal paint. T-5 that I used in the '54 Ranch Wagon. HRP
Would you wipe that down with any kind of degreaser first, rust neutraliser etc ? I know it’s only a gearbox, and good enough to paint as is for most, - but there appears to still be some rust showing, - so if that was a body panel, what would you guys all clean it up with before the etch primer or filler, or would it be good enough as is ? Just curious. Thanks ! ( and as @squirrel alluded too, not all spray can paint needs primer anyway )
Hi Mike , It’s an excellent job you did cleaning the transmission,,,,,looks really good . On this thread,,,,reread your post #1,,,,,,and the second (#2) notes you posted . Then look at post #2,,,from Jim,,,,,,follow his directions,,,,,it will be great ,,,I promise . Tommy
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