The outer races on my magnesium spindel mounts are stuck to spindels. Hesitant to heat the inner race with a torch on a magnesium wheel. There 12 spoke Americans Rusted around the spindel and race . Can't tap it in. Not going to beat on rim . Have tapped with a soft mallet. I know solid magnesium is much harder to ignite but not keen on the amount of heat up like to put on the race and burning grease etc. Been soaking in Kroil . Maybe a Plate from the back for puller bolts. Through the wheel . Thoughts ?? Trying to figure out pictures.
About a million different ways to get that bearing out with a puller or slide hammer. WURTH and others make a penetrant that has refrigerant in it to freeze the bearing . About $20 bucks a can but works really well the WURTH stuff is called rost off ice, I’ve seen other brands as well
Possibly put the weight of the car on the wheel and roll until it loosens up. Being a tapered bearing, just might work.
Not sure what your going to hook to. I might be able to weld to the inner race and go from there. I might be able to slip a plate behind the wheel between were a backing Plate and run rods to it and push on the spindel . The wheels have some play and I can't drive e the bearing in either with some pretty serious force on the inner race. If it was a steel hub I'd just try heating the race . Little leary of sticking a torch in there with the magnesium wheel .
Yea I tried that. It's not a running vehicle and one tire goes flat pretty fast . I have hammered the tires . Beat down on the race with a drift and 3 pound hammer . Both weeks stuck. I'm a equipment mechanic by trade . Have a mill might have to pull the king pins and try to mill the spindels away . Hate to destroy them.
Is there enough room behind the wheel to slip one of these in and then start cranking the bolts together to force the wheel outward?
Yep, thinking I'd be building a puller/pusher at this point. Should be fairly easy to make something that won't damage anything. Good luck!
Maybe and I have a couple bearing splitters . I hate to start marring up the damn things . I was thinking of a slotted plate with holes for pull bolts the weld a place across the slot . Maybe a 1/4" clearance. Funny thing is I wanted them off because I was worried about them being stolen in front of the house . Snow coming .
The spindle is just an early Ford spindle sacrifice it to save the wheel . Knock out the kingpin , put the wheel & spindle up where you can work on it . Drill down the center of the spindle with a big enough drill so the spindle stub will collapse & release the bearing .
Unless you're building a dedicated drag car I'd sell the entire front suspension to the highest bidder, selling those wheels and the fuel tank would go a long way to funding the build.
I would go with a puller plate behind as you said in your first post. Possibly two U shaped plates behind so you cover all the spokes near the hub. Another one in front so that with six length of all thread you can pre load the wheel against the stub. Then tap against the stud. You should hopefully with pre loading and tapping get the wheel off.
Years ago a friend would heat things with a ''rocket'' style heater then shoot freon from a can on the part to be shrunk. Maybe do the same thing with a can of WD-40 left in a freezer.
Couii ohhh d you put the wheel snd spindle in a big press , support the wheel with a bunch of hard wood and press it out? I know you don’t want to damage anything, but hitting it with a dead. Blow hammer won’t give it the “ shock” it needs to break loose
The tool that heat's shit electrically, Or what I would do because I don't have first, Almost wore out cut off wheel, An using the key way area so you can notch the inner race... An Very carefully air chisel back forth... Clearly if you're not serious this could go wrong.. but it's what I would do... Result's may vary
I'd cut the spindle to make life easier. There's always someone with an orphan spindle to replace the one you sacrifice.
Try putting the castle nut back on, backward, flat part of nut out, flush with spindle. Pull out on the wheel and hit the nut with a 4# hammer and see if it starts to release.
How about a tube that slips over the spindle snout, and you weld the end of it to the bearing? About 1/8" thick wall, with an ID just larger than the spindle. Then use a slide hammer attached to the tube to yank the bearing out.
I'd go in this order; #1) Marty's idea of a slide hammer but with a twist; Take a 1' length of medium wall tubing; bevel grind the end and TIG to the outer bearing inner race. You now have a "handle" to hammer tap, rock up/down and back/forth. If that doesn't break the seal, weld a T handle on the pipe end (like the T handle water main valve wrench used by the water dept) so you can try to twist it free. Lastly, attach a slide hammer. #2) Vandenplas' idea of pressing the spindle out with the wheel hub properly supported/clamped in a wood bed. #3) PeteE's idea of milling the spindle shaft away. You can sandwich clamp the wheel in wood cribbing to the mill table. You have a mill and good used 37-48 Ford spindles can be routinely had for $125-$150 pr. or as someone mentioned a stray spindle if only one side needs to be sacrificed. Get the front end off and in your shop. Can the rest of the car be moved to the back yard to prevent looting? A scrapper around here would not hesitate to swipe that whole thing! You could easily disassemble the bucket and store it in sub assemblies in garage, yard shed, etc, while you start your build.
Something else to try: (Just what you need now, right? . Use an air chisel w/a blunt tip. Do *not* miss. Not kidding. This can be used w/the split press blocks & bolts to create more even pressure on wheel to help prevent damage. What I'd do: After the spindle/wheel has been separated from the axle, turn the castle nut around & screw on ~halfway, giving you a good-sized lip. Another reg nut or a piece of snug-fitting tubing would work well, too, maybe even wood w/a tight fitting hole. Anyways, soak bearings again in a good rust-buster/lube, & get a airchisel pointy-tip that has seen better days, & cut it down & blunt it so's it's just a bit smaller than the id of the nut/tube/etc. Support the wheel very well so's it's horizontal, w/the spindle on the bottom. Stick the blunted chisel tip into the "ring" around the spindle tip & put your body weight onto the airchisel, to keep the airchisel from bouncing out of the ring onto the wheel, start using light short trigger bursts, extending as necessary. It's the vibration(s) that work things loose, & weight that lets it come apart. Don't need to lean on it, but the airchisel will bounce a lot. & tip will rattle off of everything then. Be careful if you feel it start to move, when it does, it'll drop like a rock, so you don't want you'n the gun to dance on the wheel hub. I don't suppose you need to separate the spindle from the axle, just support it well, & ensure that when things come apart, it doesn't kiss your feet, legs, other items of interest. That will usually result in words, & your buddies rofl, hopefully w/o being able to take vids. You might find it mushrooms the spindle end abit, but I'd guess maybe only ~ 1->3 threads, = nbd. Can recut threads or file offending part down/away. Used this technique at work to remove large a/c condenser fans/hubs from the motors. They usually had been exposed to the MN weather n road salts + Magnesium Chloride for 5-10+ yrs. Tried usual methods, then words, fancy words, adult fancy words, finally adult fancy blue words. Didn't help. At all. 'Till I introduced Mr. Airchisel. . Long job done in <5 min, including getting tools from toolbox. & no fuss, or words. Rarely much damage, usually none(slight expanding of motor shaft tip). Marcus...
Going on from what nrgwizard said " It's the vibration(s) that works things loose ". I would find a bit of heavy walled tube slightly larger I/D and longer than the spindle. Weld a plate onto the end of the tube. Put some sort of protection on the spindle thread, slide the tube over the thread and the use an air chisel on the end plate. Hopefully the vibration will free it.
Here’s what I’d do, and it was kinda mentioned before…but the Old dodges, etc that had tapered axles came with a “removal” tool. Basically a hex head like a bolt head, but about a inch of threads maybe less I’d have to look for mine. So you’d remove the nut holding the wheel on. Screw this in its place. The “tool” would tighten up against the axle (spindle in your case) and be about an 1/8th inch from tightening anything. Follow me? Okay, the wheel you want to remove stays on the ground. Jack the opposite side up into the air. Take careful aim with a 5lb sledge and smack the end of the “tool”. It would shock the axle and with the tire still on the ground, act as a press. Similar when you use a puller on a tapered piece get it tight and wrap it once with a big ball peen and “pop” it comes loose. I made one for a friend with a nut and weld a rod in it. Edit: I welded a bolt into a nut, not a rod. I recall screwing it in some then welding it
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