Technical Why no or weak spark?

A good DVM will also show the pulse at the bottom of the screen. Won’t be like an analog meter, but will still indicate a rise and fall of DC.

 

Now you tell me. Bell is ringing like someone just fired off a .45 next to my ear. How do I prevent that when testing next time? Yowsers.
Need to walk away for tonight, but thanks for all the tips so far, gang. Done a bunch of Pertronix in the past and have always like the simple two wire hookup. The only issue I have ever had was the low voltage through a resistor wire which was brought up earlier.
I'll keep you posted. I don't think it is a cranking or battery issue. It's something with my wiring, Pertronix coil or Ignitor. Starting to think the Ignitor even though it passed my last test.
This particular Pertronix kit is designed for 12v not 6. I'm honestly not even sure they even make a 6v unit.

 

I agree a scope would be best, but a two lead (positive and negative) LED test light would work fine as well. If the Pertronix unit is working correctly, the negative side of the ignition coil will flash red-green-red-green and so on if it’s working correctly when cranking.

 

Need to check the phasing of the rotor.

 

DVOM's aren't traditional. My Simpson 260 analog meter shows pulses at engine cranking speed.

 

2 things to look at: 1) If points are still being used, then are they gapped correctly? 2) Condenser if still used is shorted to ground or the distributor switching (- side) wire is shorted to ground.

 

Ok, I was able to get my timing light working (which really makes life easier); however, this motor doesn't have a stock crank pulley or a timing pointer, so I guess I be trying to time it off that flywheel window.
Also, one thing that seemed weird when I did the light. My light did (flash) spark when I shut it down. Still worried about another backfire. Advice?

 

What's with the red wire from the + terminal of the coil to the distributor?

 

That is the Pertronix wire. Red goes to + on the coil, the Black goes to - on the coil.

 

Why would my timing light give off erratic, non consistent flashes at cranking?

 

What kind of timing light? Some of them (dial back) don't play well with certain types of ignition. Pertronix basically either works, or it doesn't.

Since this engine has never ran since you've taken over, a different approach is required. You can't assume anything. The previous occupants could have done just about anything wrong, and probably did. So you need to check everything.

Are the (for example) spark plug wires connected in the correct firing order? Do you know for sure i.e. have you verified this?

"Assuming" everything is more or less straight at that point I'd find TDC for the #1 piston using a piston stop tool and make my own "0" mark. Then static time the distributor to set the ignition about 5 or 10 degrees BTDC.

 

Light is just a basic old Craftsman. No timing adjustment dial or anything. Just a straight up induction light with wire clip and two battery connections.

Firing order was wrong when I got it, but is right now.

 

OK...

I'd still want to verify TDC "0" on the pulley or damper or whatever. Because even if you time it correctly with a timing light, it is only going to be as accurate as the timing marks. It sounds a little like the ignition timing is retarded a lot for whatever reason.

 

When you ground a spark plug to a head bolt or whatever and crank the engine over it should have a nice fat snappy rythmic hot spark. Kind of bluish white. It has to have a good spark, not just "a" spark.

 

About to try that. Getting fed up with it.

 

Wouldn't it be easier to check the spark first, though?

Work smarter, not harder!

 

Yes, I’m trying to avoid swapping, Truck64.

Can anyone explain what would cause my spark to be erratic? I can reach my timing light into the cab while I crank and it is getting spark, but it not a steady, rhythm of flashes. Shouldn’t it be with steady cranking?

 

Are you on the coil wire?

 

I am on #1.

 

Cracked or carbon tracked dist. cap, slipping dist. drive gear, worn dist. shaft bushings, bad contacts in the ign. switch, causing intermittent dropped voltage to the coil, points worn/misadjusted, oxidized contacts, pickup coil or control module faults, are a few.

Bring #1 piston up on compression, align timing marks for initial timing, and check rotor position against #1 cap terminal. While there, check for shaft side play and try to turn rotor. If all good, loosen dist. hold down slightly, to enable turning dist. by hand. With timing light connected or #1 plug grounded, turn on ignition and rotate dist. back and forth until there is spark or timing light flashes, stop there and tighten down dist. Start the engine and check timing.

 

Pertronix Ignitor isn't some super sophisticated high-tech gee-whiz-bang component. Some people don't like them, but they will either work, or not. Make sure the little uninsulated braided copper ground wire is still inside the distributor connected from dist. housing to points plate.

On the timing light itself, if I was suspicious I would connect it to a running engine to verify that it appears to be working correctly. Sears hasn't made a timing light in a long time.

Is there in fact a good spark at the plugs or not? We're on pg. 2 now. A more broad test is simply disconnect the coil wire at the distributor and hold terminal about 1/2" from a head bolt or good ground. It should have a stout spark there.

(For troubleshooting a remote switch is nice to have. Two alligator clips, some wire and a pushbutton and Bob's Yer Uncle. Connect one to the + battery terminal and the other to the I terminal on the solenoid.)

Careful not to forget and leave the ignition key switch in "Run" during your testing of everything. This will sometimes cause coil to go all 'splodey after a half hour or so.

 

No progress yet. It appears these distributors get a little "sticky" in the block over the years. Lot of meat on that distributor shaft that mates with the block. Yikes. Mine doesn't appear to have seen the light of day since '46 either. Soaking and doing some prayers. Don't want to go down the road of these two soldiers.

 

Guess who was right? Something about sticking with stock stuff. Put the old coil, cleaned old points, and put resistor in and she started in one crank.
Had good luck with Pertronix in the past, but looks like their coil was probably the failure point. She’s leaking only after a few starts. Think the module is still good, but it still won’t be going back in.
Distributor still won’t budge, so that will have to wait for another day. Thanks gang!

 

You might want to buy some new sparkalaters!