Hot Rods Rusty has a new project- father son build , 26 T roadster!

Thanks Ryan, I’ll probably take you up on that. I’m going to mock up with the stock spring eye and see what it looks like.

 

Started building a front crossmember today.

 

Built and tacked together. It’s 1-1/2” higher than a stock T crossmember. Running a T radiator and shell sort of throws a curve at ya when it comes to crossmember height.

 

Front suspension is rigged in so I could get my front wishbone mounts tacked on.

 

I'm loving this build! I just hope the puritans don't bust your chops for the period correct T5

 

Haha! Yeah me also. My single seater is period correct and it’s at best a 60 mph car. I want this one to be able to Cruze at 80.

 

What's in the motor? I have mine mated to a Saginaw 3spd...I wish it was a 5

 

The single seater is powered by a 50s era Dodge 236 cube flathead six with an aluminum Edmunds head.

 

That's cool! What about the V8?

 

The roadster is a 59L factory relived block 3-3/8 x 4-1/8 296 cubes. Should rip pretty good.

 

I got a pretty badass 264 I built, if you haven't seen the video I'll send it to ya.

 

Started mocking up the pedal assembly, pops has a 46 ford dump truck that we took the assembly from and the link to the transmission is from a 41 car. We will have to do some heating and bending on the arms but I think it should work.

 

Been making boxing plates but I don’t know if I’m getting the cart ahead of the horse. I probably should get some holes drilled for the body mount bolts before plates get tacked on. I’ve never used nutzerts would they work for bolting the body down?

 

Hey buddy I would not use them if they let go and start to spin your screwed , I use the nuts that have the like washer built into them, tightening up the nuts and bolts and then weld the nuts in place,then take the bolts out set the body on and tighten them up. I use 23 wire to weld them in place since the washer part is thin so the smaller wire doesn't build up so much. Make sure you have clean metal to get the penetration. In fact I am doing the Willys frame right now. I got my nuts at Owen's but Fasaneal should be able to get bigger ones, depending on what you want to use. The Willys has 24 bolts that holed the floor and 4 half inch that hold the body and floor to the frame. Later buddy car is coming along great.

 

I’ve used nutserts in the past and never had much luck . I found welding small plates on the inside along the top edge Of the frame at specific points where your mounting holes will go , drilling and tapping works way better than nutserts. I use 1/4 or 3/8 plate , and tap for 3/8 fine thread .Then install boxing plate. Also my last frame I used the step box style which I really like when it comes to mounting lines, wiring .

 

I was going to step box it but I got lazy and just started boxing it the standard way. I’ll have to get pops up to help me set the body back on the frame so I can mark holes.

 

Thanks Tony

 

Some drill right thru top and bottom insert a steel tube and weld it in and run long bolts...options so many options but nutserts not for such a critical load (even though they are like a rivet in a way)...these types of jobs are do it once do it right but picking options makes the head spin sometimes and our actions many times define and negate options available...

 

I agree with 38 2DR Sedan. I've never had much luck with nutserts either. I used the same method as 38 on my coupe and has worked out real well.

 

Thanks back at you, hope things work out on mounting the body.

 

For peace of mind I would just weld in some threaded bungs.

 

Picked up a steering wheel yesterday from some friends of mine. It’s going to be a tight fit in the cockpit.

 

So I asked about nutserts a few posts ago and the consequences was don’t use them, this afternoon I cut pieces of 3/8” stock and welded it in for my body mount bolts. I will get the body back on mark, drill and tap into the 3/8s stock.

 

engineering excellance

 

Oh boy I don’t know about that! I sort of go with a design as you build theme.

 

I know you said you were not making the trans crossmember removable, but as I look at that last photo, it would be so easy to weld in mounting plates for the crossmember at the same time. That way you give yourself the option and don't paint yourself in a corner (so to speak)

 

Yeah I know what your saying but it’s going to stay as is.

 

Had to build a little well in the drivers side boxing plate for the pedal assembly. I went to a local ranch store and bought a few sizes of bare steel domed caps that gets welded to the top of fence posts. I turned it around backwards and added a narrow ring to give it enough depth for the pedal shaft.

 

WHOA that is some original good thinking.