Projects Rehpotsirhcj’s 30 Flathead Coupe

UPS dropped off a package this afternoon. At first I thought it might be a Leg Lamp:


Even better, new top wood!

 

First fit.
This makes me happy.

 

Word to the wise, when you buy a wood kit, don’t purchase the hardware. I found that they were mostly too short and even different diameter than stock. Instead, get the book below that explains everything explicitly. Then go to the hardware store and spend $20 bucks on what you need.

 

Subbed to your thread...paid particular attentions to your inner bracing...as you know I'm dealing with that now. Glad to see I'm not by myself in buying rough projects!! Fine job Sir!

R/
Boxcar

 

Thanks man, I appreciate it!

 

I installed a wood kit into my former A and I did not disassemble the body...what your doing is probably more of a factory based approach...and that's admirable...some wood certainly needs finessing to get things right...I guess theres several suppliers for these kits and quality and content vary...

It's a huge hurdle in the process once you figure the puzzle out...and it seems you have...

 

I’ve read that the kits can vary quite a bit, and that a few suppliers have insultingly low quality. By dumb luck I went with Fordwood.com. I reasoned that if that’s all they do they must be pretty good at it. No complaints with either service or quality, so I’d recommend them if someone is looking. Just buy your own hardware.

 

I bought the Top Kit with Hardware and didn't find to many issues other than filing wood to clear metal here and there...The instructions were scarce...I don't have the receipt anymore but it may have in fact been the place you got yours...I may have bought extra elsewhere to sub for bolts to short but most was used...maybe I got Tuesdays picker...

But I overwhelmingly remember thinking of Henry's team rasping and filing away for 8 hours a day to get those A Bones out to the Consumers...

 

Small update. I’ve been working on my 53, and so the A has been on the back burner for about a month.

I found a set of trunk drip rails on eBay. They have some surface rust, but they were reasonably priced. New sets were out of my “feel good at that price” range, but I think these will clean up fine. Hats off to those that can make these. I used quite a bit of steel and effort trying. Sometimes it’s just best to buy the darn part.


I only need one rail but might replace both if they don’t match well with the stock rails. I have an extra rear window panel that is good other than the gutter, and so I’ll probably patch that up so it can be used by someone down the road.

 

More b-pillar fun today. I made a couple tabs and in the process learned that a small chisel is excellent for punching square holes in sheet metal for carriage bolts. I used rivets for the moment, until I know I have all the braces etc where they will live. Even as-is it’s stiffened up a lot. I can slam the door, say in a short-lived fit of rage, without thing moving around on me.
The passenger side is b-puller seems about a half inch lower than it should be, and so that’s my next target.

 

Working toward mufflers for my engine run stand. I love an open header Flathead, but my neighbors probably not so much. Anyway, I need a flanged pipe for my collectors and the darn things are $20 bucks plus shipping each. So I got on YouTube and found a video of someone using a big ass ball bearing and a press….seemed sketchy, and I don’t have a 4 inch ball bearing laying around. Next video was Lazze. I’m impressed. Who knew you could do this with a cheap bead roller?! Learn something every day. It’s not perfect, but it should work.

 

did you hammer form this? I need to do this too! nice work!
Jim

 

Thanks Jim, but it’s rougher than it looks. It’s just a 90 i folded against my bench edge, shrunk here and there to match the contour of the quarter. I ran across an affordable set on fbay and so haven’t put anymore work into them. If it were of any quality I’d send it to you. It’s not.

 

I remember scratching my head a bit when I building that rain gutter on my coupe conversion. Got a fella coming by tomorrow that's interested in it... Moving on to the new one. I'm paying attention to that b pillar repair...mine are next.

 

You scored a nice one! I’m looking forward to seeing it come together.

 

Finally, I was able to get some mufflers on my run stand and get the coupe’s 8BA up to temp.
I ran 2 1/2 inch into a couple of economy mufflers, and managed to pack it all under pan. I still need to build a riser for the fuel tank, but hung it temporarily so I could hear it run. It just sounds like a car idling in the driveway now, so that should help with the neighbors. I shot a quick video while I was waiting to see if my thermostats would open.

 

I just found this thread and read it from the start. Very enjoyable. I'd say everything is coming together nicely . You have definitely saved an A coupe .

 

Thank you Joel, i appreciate it. I haven’t saved it yet, but I’m sure trying.

 

Nice run stand...collecting parts to build one over here. Quality work sir!

 

Thanks man, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. Check out the link below when you go to build your own, it’s what I based mine on and is honestly much nicer. One modification, I wanted my fuel tank away from the batteries. Also the part number for the motor mounts has changed, hit me up if/when you need and I’ll dig the new one up.
https://www.lainefamily.com/EngineStandProject.htm

 

Hunting down gremlins this morning. I’ve had the Flathead up to temp a couple times now, each resulting in a coolent leak. So, out come the fluids time and again until I nail it down. I think hot rods are akin to a mean tempered wife; you love them, but they run hot and you’d better watch your back.

 

Would anyone have a photo of this bracket installed? This the only point in the wood kit that is not pre-drilled, which makes me think I might be missing something?

 

Here's an old original reference....but everything I see in yours is on point.

 

Is that the aft cross rib and additionally the nailing strip for the rear roof insert?

@Boxcar's 1928 I take it your A is a different model but with shared attributes?

 

Boxcar I wasn't sure as your ribbing across the insert area looks real beefy to the ribbing I used and what Rehpot is useing...I thought yours might be a different model due to that reason...

 

Oh yes.....gotcha. the ribs I beefed up. But I believe that's the only deviation. My rear members are standard.

 

You can walk on that...pretty beefy...

 

Thanks a bunch, super helpful! Looking at your photos, I’m thinking maybe these call for wood screws rather than bolts, which might explain why they are not pre drilled. That part of the wood kit is pretty darn thin for the number of contact points (4), seems like it would be prone to splitting. Anyway, seeing yours it looks like that’s just the way they are. I’m going to predrill and try to be as careful as I can. @Stogy has a good eye. A little beefier is probably a good thing. Thanks again

 

I remember that particular crossbeam...mine was split and I wrestled with that...mind you I did it all with the body together...You fellas are doing it likely as the factory did wood skelton first and panels next...I sold the Coupe wood installed but I think Fitness may have split the panels and finished the wood with some staining and sealing as well...I thought of Henry's woodfitters as I was doing same...there was a piece running along the top of the door to the back curved area possibly attached to that crossbeam your working on and that took a lot of filing in that curved area and the aft door pillars needed some rework...most was just bolt in once I figured the puzzle of were it went...oh that upper windshield piece needed a fair bit of rework for the side panels with the drip rails meeting the visor...I liked the challenge...good work fellas...wood is good...