Hot Rods Homogenized ‘28 roadster build

WOW!
Great craftsmanship!
Keep the updates coming.

 

Another cool roadster coming out of your garage... It seems like each one is better than the previous!
Super nice work so far.

 

Awesome project! A lot of real hot rodding going on here. Looking forward to the rest of the build.

 

Looks fantastic thanks for the updates

 

Your ideas and follow through are fantastic. You go beyond most people's thinking, and do it well.

 

Thanks again guys! I hope not to disappoint.

There aren’t many big ticket tasks left that will see much creativity. There will be an auburn style dash and a three piece hood. The rest of the car will be pretty standard hot rod fare. 2”-ish chop with a folding top. Will probably build a factory style seat out of plywood and foam.

 

Nice job man on what you have done so far, Just a suggestion, I would reshape that speedway (Hurst) Motor mount at least on the right side so you can run a chevy manual fuel pump. All you need to do is pie cut the mount bend it forward and move your mount forward. You could do the other side as well so they match. Not trying to tell you what to do with you project, Just a suggestion.

 

I picked up a fuel pump this week to see how it fit, it clears the Hurst mount - it is a Hurst - just fine (I made some spacers when I set everything up) but I need to tweak my frame mount just a little. It’s on the list for this weekend!

 

Man, You are doing it right. I like to see quality fabrication. Nice work on the rear end. You are correct on your batwings. They are PSI. I had that same idea too for a project I'm gathering parts for. It's also gonna be a 29 roadster. Keep at it and if ya get it done before July you are invited to Hotrod-a-rama in Pendleton, Oregon July 28th to 31st 2022

 

Thank you for the post and the invite!! I think I’ll be hard pressed to make my October ‘22 deadline so pretty certain I won’t be in Oregon in July, though it sounds like a great time.

With a bunch of parts just ordered and others still on the way, I spent today on the cowl. At one point I suspect the cowl took a pretty hard hit that ripped the passenger windshield post and bracket off, and bent back the filler piece under the windshield. I had acquired the pieces to fix this a while back so decided to knock that out. It was easier to cut and splice the piece under the windshield that to repair it so that’s what I did. I also pulled the tank out and cut the bottom away, revealing that this whole thing had spent some time upside down in the California pines. The tank top is pretty thin in a few spots but it’ll have to do for now.

After the fixes were completed I decided to go ahead and chop it. I cut 2-1/8” out of the windshield frame and 3” out of the posts to get rid of the gap under the frame. I’m not going to lean the windshield back any.

 

If you would have leaned the windshield Back you have to recurve the upper vowel to match or rebrand the bottom of the windshield frame to match. Misseysdaddy refit the vowel band when he leaned his w/s posts back and it looks great in MHO. I put a DuVall w/s on mine

 

Right. But since I’m not leaning mine back it’s not really an issue. And that’s a Hallock windshield.

 

It’s a copy of a Hallock made by Stellers it came in two pieces and I welded both half together. I am going to round the corners on the side posts like this.

 

That's a good amount of chop for the look you're going for. Plus, from a practicality standpoint, if your head is above the windshield, it's no longer a wind-shield.

 

Oh yeah. I learned that lesson with the T, the windshield did not shield wind! And when you want to put a top on something and still fit in it but don’t want to sit on the floor, can’t get too crazy with the chop.

 

NICE!!!

 

Two of my wheels are here, went with American Racing TTO’s in full polish as pictured above because they aren’t a bad looking wheel but also are pretty cheap! My 5” wife fronts are still somewhere on a boat off the coast of LA. 7” wide for the back. I went with 5x4.75 pattern on this one again and this set of wheels and (yet to be ordered tires) will also fit another car I have.

My rear axles showed up, ordered “cut-to-fit” ones from Speedway which is the third set I’ve used and always had good luck. Some windshield frame hardware and radiator mounting stuff was also on the order. I have some ladder bars coming from P&J too but I think they are stuck on a boat somewhere between Missouri and Texas haha.

I also threw in the towel on a real ‘32 shell. They’re just too expensive for my budget on this one. This reproduction was $225 to my door. And yeah…it’s total junk, but I can work with it. The biggest issue is the complete lack of a peak at the top of the insert. I mean it’s bad. Luckily I have this old wall hanger piece of a shell that I can fix that with. And since I’m chopping the whole thing roughly 2” anyway, some massaging on the insert should work out ok too.

 

Geez that peak is way off lol. Looking forward to seeing you meld them

 

Not a problem for a stepper, you can notch the bottom sides of the shell to lower it without reworking the insert. The insert takes effort to match the stainless filler so you don’t have a line. If I remember right I used 308L . 309L is a lot harder to work with. 309L will work on cast iron repairs but it’s hard to drill and extremely hard to tap.

 

If you graft all of what's left of the wall hanger together with the repop shell, then is it a repaired original shell, or a repop with a section grafted in? Like the grille-shell of Theseus.

 

Great build with some really nice craftsmanship - hats off to you for going with the look you want ….. killer!

 

Well this part worked…the insert still fits so poorly that I don’t think it’s useable. Chopped the shell 1.5”. I do not like notching the side to lower the shell, the bottom hangs down too much.

 

I can appreciate your work on "saving" that bad repro shell. It's a shame they can't spend a bit more time getting the dies right before production.

I'm currently saving an original shell that was cut up on the sides and rusted on the top. I have parts from three other butchered shells that will be used to bring it back to shape.

 

Looks like you nailed it, good save.

 

This is probably the worst of the aftermarket shells. I’ve looked at the ones from speedway and they are much better, but more than twice as expensive. The Brookville shell looks to be right in between the two ad far as shape at the top goes. I probably should have gone with speedway but I guess I’ll use the extra few hundred bucks elsewhere.

 

Ho ho ho and all that junk.

The ladder bars showed up this week. I saved another hundred bucks buying them without axle brackets. Since I needed to make the spring hanger brackets and had a bunch of 3/8” plate anyway, making those was no big deal. Had to remove the really old factory style shackle pieces out of the spring hangers, then shave down the back edge so it would fit a 2” shackle. The spring I'm using is a 3" drop Posies front spring for a '41-'48. Got as far as getting the hanger brackets tacked onto the housing today. I don’t like the angle that the ladder bars are at as provided on this frame, way too narrow at the rear axle. Going to cut the tabs off of the crossmember and relocate them so the ladder bars mount a little farther outboard. That’ll have to wait until Sunday I guess. Once all the bracketry and ladder bars are sorted out and I get closer to being more sure of ride height, I will cut that tubular rear crossmember out and replace it with a ‘36-‘48-ish one I have.

 

Happy new year and all that junk!

Today I got the rear suspension sorted out. Cut half the front ladder bar brackets off and cut enough of the welds off of the other half to be able to re-angle the bars while keeping a solid pivot point. Moved the bars out about 3” per side, tacked the brackets to the rear axle, then removed the front hardware and cut the rest of the front brackets off. Got the rear spring bolted up and the axle center line sorted, then (because angling the ladder bars more effectively made them shorter) welded the front mounts back on about an inch rearward. Installed studs in the rear axles and bolted my wheels on. My rear tires and front wheels are on back order, but my front tires will be here Monday haha. Also bolted up my headlight mounts and King Bees.

Oh! And I cannot say enough about how much of a nice (and ruggedly handsome) guy @CTaulbert is!!! A couple months ago I found this top for a Shay replica on eBay for a really great price, except the seller was in Michigan and wouldn’t ship. Cory made a 4-hour round trip to snag it for me, and then when a person-to-person hand off became too much of a hassle, he boxed it up and shipped it too! I love that dude.

 

This build thread is off to a great start, and that intake fabrication is just pure hot rod art. I’m in for the long haul.

Thanks for sharing it all.

 

Looks great, hopefully your rubber shows up before the rest of the cars done!