I keep my respirator, or at least the cartridges, in a sealable baggy that I shoot Mig gas (inert) into. I sure wish Paint Guru would show up again.....
My friend who is doing the painting has the whole outfit with a low pressure air mask, painting coveralls, gloves and head cover. He won't let me near the booth when he is painting. Good thing I suspect. Thanks for all the input.
You go into one of the two local paint suppliers hereabouts you better beware. It is like going into an auto zone store. The workers are strictly clerks. I bought a can of weld through primer for 20 bucks or so. A short time latter the same guy wanted 48.00 dollars for the same product. I tried to solicit a little advice on how to proceed with some body issues. I wanted to spend my funds wisely. I was told if you do not know what you need, how would you expect us to know?
More delays! Paint is shipped but not from KY, rather CA so I wont see it now until Tues/Wed. And UPS has a flag on the tracking indicating "delays."
You have created a problem where there was none. Paint the car with what you have and it will be fine. It makes no difference if it's high VOC or low VOC, they work fine together.
Since you stated the low VOC and conventional base coats are from different manufacturers, I would not mix the two without testing them. personally, I wont use brand B catalysts in brand A paint. I’ve used generic reducers but not on anything besides beaters or practice panels with students. I will use brand A paint over band B primers.
I am not a bodyman but have painted chassis and suspension parts for years before sending the car to the body shop.I am now retired and decided to try painting the whole car myself,used paint and high build primer from Summit after sticker shock from the local paint shop,and it came out pretty good.Paint is really forgiving if you are willing to sand and buff it afterwards....this is not to take anything away from the guys that really know what they are doing I am not that guy.Doesn't look like I spent 10000$ on a paint job.And I didn't.
UPDATE Well, after a ton of delays all the same products arrived and we began the process of painting the coupe. Followed the instructions as outlined by Summit in their documentation. Pretty straight forward. Pulled it out of the booth the next day and wet sanded the roof with 1500. Immediately began to see small pin holes in the clear. They do not sand out completely but do get smaller. The right panel has more than the left but they do appear in other areas as well. It is not a fish eye issue but what certainly appears to be solvent pop. Seems that there are a lot of threads out there regarding this problem so it is not like we started something new. We used a 55-70 hardner, let each coat of base and clear flash of to a hand slick feel but ended up with the pin holes. It has been suggested that you use a toothpick and dab a small amount of clear on each hole, let it dry and then wet sand the tops off and then buff it out. I may try this on one panel to see how it turns out. Other than that it is either do a repaint or leave it. Repaint is out of the question, options are narrowing. We painted the doors and trunk the following day and there appears to be no pin holes. Same product, same procedure. Luck of the draw?
Solvent pop can sometimes occur if the booth stays closed with out the fan on. I can definitely haze Paint will gas off for several days/weeks after spraying. Trapped in a sealed booth can cause issues. Why some parts and not others? Temp, less paint sprayed, alignment of the stars?
Solvent pop on a horizontal surface, likely due to just too much paint per coat. Easy to do when you don't have to try too hard to avoid runs, and wanting to get the best coverage, gloss and flow out. DAMHIKT
I know you said re paint is out of the question, but...... The easiest and best fix is to re spray the clear on the roof. If you do use the toothpick process, make sure to use clear with harder mixed in it to fill the holes.
@anthony myrick Color me stupid here. I have been painting things for well over 50 years. I have used lots of different paints. That said I have no idea what VOC or Low VOC paint is. Could you help me out and save me a couple of days on google and fill me in on what we are talking about?
Areas are different for VOC regs. Shops have to keep records of materials used. A shop could be regulated to only using a certain amount of materials/produce a certain amount of waste. The low VOC stuff keeps the waste members down.
1 coat of black sealer, waited for it to become hand slick then 2 coats of base. 2nd sprayed when first became hand slick. 2 coats of clear followed, my notes are at the shop so I can't recall the timing between the clear coats. About a half hour past when we shut down the fans and left it in the booth until the next day.
The VOC are the chemicals that react with sunlight to produce smog. This started in CA back in the 70’s and also apples to house paints (no more oil base paint) and even the inks used in wallpaper (solvent base ink changed to soy base) along with removing lead from gasoline. You can now get zero VOC house paint. It definitely made a big difference in air quality in the LA basin.
Wife’s brother tells me the great state of commie forna regulates the sandpaper he uses at work. Bagged and tagged must equate or big fine coming at you. It’s funny that when a bureaucrat builds his new house I see five gallon cans of lacquer sprayed into the atmosphere to beautify all the stair rail and cabinets in their new shanty. One day the painter is going lite up the job site. I’ve seen the dumb clucks fire up their gas powered airless inside the attached garage and be on the third floor spraying with the exhaust creeping up the stair well. Did I mention Dumb Clucks.
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