Projects Bringing an F100 Back from the Dead

Ha ha... that was weird... don't mind me, I'm "cyberstupid"!

 

Update time!
Screwed the pooch so to speak on painting my wheels. Orange peel? Nope. Orange peel on steroids! I used Urethane single stage. Same stuff I used on the dash, the maroon color. Different gun tho. According to the directions on the paint can, once mixed with activator, it says no reducer is needed. So I'm thinkin' it does, because I used reducer on the dash and used my touch up gun. Probably not enough air through the gun either. It came out in bigger droplets than I've ever seen. I though it would lay down. It did not. I shoulda stopped and dealt with it. I did not. Well, I'm not a painter by any stretch, although I do have a few completes under my belt....many many years ago. And all this means is a bit of work to sand flat and re-shoot. I'll paint a test piece first this time.
Clutch linkage is finished minus mounting the master cylinder. I have a spot for the mount and that has the mount holes drilled, but I need the master cylinder in hand before welding it to the frame rail. Once that's in, then the motor can go back in.
It's been all fun and games until this point! The EZWiring fuse box is mounted, along with a ground strip.
This will be a time that will test my patience. Fortunately, my son is going to lend a hand and has provided quite a bit of guidance on things I'd need to make this a clean install.

 

That's OK. I hear textured paint is all the rage these days.
No wait - that's just one more reason to get it right.

 

I put my fuse box in the same place as yours. Then I covered it with a toe kick trim panel.
Mistake. Now to check for a bad fuse I have to remove a few screws to check the fuse box. I suggest a separate easily removed cover if you plan to trim it out.

Come to think of it I have a similar paint scheme and I too could not bear to cut up my dash for gauges and radio.

 

It seems the fuse box will be out of the way there. Most people seem to want to mount them to the firewall. The stock one mounted there, but it was much smaller. The grounded strap lined up perfectly in those same holes!
This truck didn't have a radio hole, and I am shocked and amazed that no one hacked a hole in it.
At first, I thought I'd go with one of those retro look radios in the dash. But after seeing the prices for those....not gonna happen! After some thinkin', more thinkin' and even some more thinkin', I'm going to make an attempt at an overhead console for the radio. But first things first. Running and driving, and fairly well sorted out before the foo foo stuff like radios and air conditioning!
Of course my younger son son says "Where's the sub gonna go?"

 

Nice day today, brisket on the traeger. So while I wait, I re-shot the wheels.
More gooder! Still not perfect, but a nice gloss and very few dirt particles. I'm satisfied with that, especially since this will be a daily driver and not a show truck. I have to keep reminding myself of that so I don't go way overboard on some of this stuff. So, here's the before after sanding flat, and after three coats of urethane. The only difference seemed to be making an air adjustment and using a little reducer.

 

Wiring....
It's coming along. Very tedious work. I had removed the stock harness and all wiring completely, since it was 56 years old, brittle and corroded. None of the switches worked either. I bought a 12 circuit universal harness, along with a GM headlight and wiper switch, as well as a new ignition switch with a new lock cylinder. The truck did not have keys.
The harness and switches came from EZ Wire. Very good quality with fairly clear instructions, but I did have to add in a fuel pump circuit and relay. It also has some circuits, I may or may not use in the future, such as power antenna. For now, I'm gonna cap the wires for those off under the dash.
Hey! maybe I'll use that to power up some brake fluid squirters out the back to squirt on a tailgaters car. (Not really. Fun to think about retribution sometimes, but I ain't "that guy").
To clean things up and simplify final assembly, I'm using weatherpack connectors for the firewall plug, the gauge panel and turn signal switch. The firewall plug is a 22 pin round block with a sealing rings, and the gauge cluster is a 12 pin connector. Still waiting on the 8 pin connector for the turn signals.
Also, the master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch arrived, so I finalized the bracket for that. All that is left for that is to finish the pushrod, connect the lines and mount the reservoir somewheres.
Engine & Trans goes back in this weekend!

 

Make sure the pin connections in that bulkhead connector are rated for the individual circuit current. Don't forget that you need to de-rate them down by 20% to ensure that current inrush doesn't excessively exceed their ratings. Headlights, horn, and fuse panel feed will be the ones most likely to cause issues.

 

Thanks for making that point Steve!
The main panel feed wire is separate. The headlight wires and horn will power relays on the core support, so the load on those wires in the bulkhead fitting will be minimal.
Also, it didn't really occur to me until I looked at these photos regarding that factory metal wire sling. I think I'll change that out to some kind of synthethic non-conductive material that won't chafe the wires.

 

Shrink wrap over the sling might be all you need.

 

....or a short section of heater hose....

 

Mike, I love your project, my first truck I paid for myself was a 1966 F-100 Custom Cab. One day I hope to have another one. Your choice of a 300 is super cool, it’s the greatest gasoline light truck engine ever built. You might look in a Ford Louisville heavy truck for an overhead radio mounting console. All Louisvilles has ceiling mounted stereo radio. It might save you from having to reinvent the wheel so to speak.

 

Thanks Andy! An overhead is exactly what is needed. I'm the kind of guy who would rather spend my time fabbing something than searching. It'll be fun! Building it all into a one piece enclosure and headliner. Probably chip board and fiberglass.

Anyway, we have touchdown! The shifter ended up at the back of the trans tunnel opening, so a custom shaped shifter handle will be on the drawing board soon. I'll have to put the seat frame in to see how much of a bend I'll need to get around it.

The stock T89 trans mount bolted right on, and the crossmember only needs a couple holes elongated. Almost like it was meant to be!

 

Here's a possible inspiration, from my '46.

 

Looking great, Mike! I like your alternator mount. Unfortunately mine is the original mount which also has the ears for a air pump from the original '85 truck. I am looking for a more original mount like yours.

 

Thanks FTF. Pretty close to what I have in mind for the "bones." Very nice color comb!
Greg, that mount is the stock mount for 1965. I did have to trim it a bit for the late model exhaust manifolds.

On the wire sling, I have a piece of latigo leather strap in my archery kit bag that will work great for that.

 

Thanks corncob! Very nice!
Your '57 will be close to the color I have in mind for mine. And, it also has unmentionable wheels, although they are steel smoothies with period correct center caps! (they're only 17s!)

 

Mike, you are my kind of guy. I only had a 20 year history of drag racing. Creativity and fabbing are what drives me. In case you are unaware, the 2003 and newer crown vic rear is extremely wide. You can usually buy them for not much and shorten them and use axles from other models of Fords. I suppose you know this already. Are you going to use the door panels that have the pockets in them? How about mustang buckets so it looks like a ranger sport?

 

Thanks WFO. I looked at the crown Vic stuff early on. The front, although a relatively easy bolt in deal, is just too wide. It forces the use of wheels off-set way to the inside. I don't like that. I went with dropped beams. This is gonna be a driver that will still get used as a truck.
On the seat, I wanna keep the bench, so's I can have my sweety sittin' next to me! I'll shape the foam myself and cover it with Mexican Blanket material. And I'll take the stock lower door panel, and build a pocket. The upper door panels will get covered with that same material.
With the gauge panel finished, and most of the under-dash wiring complete, I went ahead and installed the gauge panel. Just the turn signals and brake pedal switch left....at least until I figure out what to do with the wiper motor and I get the AC/heat unit. But that's on the other side anyway

 

Hi Mike, I started a '65 F100 short box with 300 I6 and farm 4 speed in May '21. I went with the DJM 4" drop in the rear and Jag XJ6 IFS. In spite of the hairy eyeball from my wife we push on with help from my 2 teenage boys. The amount of stuff we've had to make or repair is nuts so I'm feeling the vibe on yours. Rust repair of floors, cab mounts, inner fenders, A pillars, tailgate, fenders lower doors, cab corners - the rust gremlins cut us no breaks, all while trying to preserve the baby blue paint that looks to have been done in the 80's. Definitely watching yours - go man, go.

 

I've seen the Jag front end. Pretty slick! One I saw even had the V12 Jag motor. I also have the DJM rear drop kit as well as their dropped beams. The rear kit is fine. The front beams.....can't say I'm completely happy with 'em. They're in and they will work, and they look to be well constructed, yet there are some pain in the ass things to deal with on 'em.

The work continues, but it's just small task stuff, and I have not taken photos. There's been some frustrating things relating to having (or NOT having) the correct parts to finish out a task.
Clutch linkage....finished!
There were a few challenges along the way and one yet to be resolved. The master cylinder had a captive pushrod with a 5/16" X 24 thread. Ok, simple enough. I had a full length pushrod already made that was 1/2" diameter. A piece of drill rod I had on hand. I figured I would just cut it and thread the master's captive rod into the end of it. Chucked it the lathe, drilled it to tap hole size, and my tap would not go in any further than 1/2" or so. It got that far, squeeked, and that was it. (Yes I used cutting fluid, and yes I backed it out frequently to clear the chips) It was stuck. I managed to get it unstuck without breaking it after about a 1/2 hour of slowly working it back and forth. Even so, that particular pushrod was not gonna get finished. That was all it took to work harden the inside. I even tried to drill it out to 5/16" and use a set screw to attach it to the masters pushrod. It wouldn't drill either. Just rubbed off the end of my drill bit. Crapola!
So, I moved over to finish plumbing it and went to connect it to the hydraulic release bearing, which had a #4 AN line. I had ASS-UMED that the master came with a #4 adapter. I thought for certain I had read that into the description when I bought it, so I didn't bother to order that fitting along with the master. As it turns out...it had a #3. I wanted to finish it, so I ordered fitting on Summit (not available anywhere local) and paid the $12 shipping fee for a $9 part.
While I waited for that, I took the master back out and did what I should have at the beginning. Remove the captured pushrod and make a one piece pushrod. Took less time that what I spent fighting with the extendo piece I was trying to make, just to keep from have to pop the retainer out of the master that held the original pushrod.
So clutch linkage and plumbing complete! Except I am having trouble bleeding it. Master is below the release bearing, so it's just gonna be stubborn. It just won't bend to my will and simply bleed. I've tried arguing with it. It still insists on being stubborn and uncooperative. So, I'll have to resort to buying a vacuum bleeder I reckon.
Also while I was beatin' my head against the wall with the clutch stuff, I figured I might as well build a fuel tank mount. I'm ditching the in-cab tank and using a 22 gallon tank for a 70 Mustang mounted in the rear. A simple perimeter frame for the tank to bolt to that mounts between the frame rails in black. Nuthin' new under the sun there. Same as what countless others have done. So that is done too.
I still have a bunch of small things to do before I can fire the motor. Build an exhaust, run fuel plumbing, install the radiator and get all the hoses for that, as well as finish wiring the engine bay.
It'll be a minute or two!

 

The twin I beam front end is an excellent front end... for a truck that's going to be used/abused as a truck. Near bullet-proof, you can go Baja racing with no mods and not have to worry. But handling? Not so great. As long as you're not planning on any high-speed off-road work, use the stiffest shocks you can as that will drastically reduce bump steer which is its main failing. I had one 'back in the day' that I put Gabrial Adjustable E turned up to full stiff on, the difference was night and day. High speeds on logging roads broke lower shock mounts/shocks unfortunately...

The Jag front is an excellent choice. Jags are heavy cars, so it's plenty stout enough and rebuild parts are readily available and not any more expensive than others. It's on a subframe too, so install is pretty easy.

 

That's one of the reasons I kept the twin I-beam Steve. This is a truck. It is not a hot rod per se. It has some hot rod touches, but I wanna use it as a truck when I need to.

Anyway, I stopped by the parts store yesterday and brought home a vacuum pump with a brake bleed attachment. Although I was making some progress, it just stopped pulling fluid through. So I figured I'd just begin again, take off the master, bench bleed it, and go from there. Interestingly, once I sucked the fluid out of the reservoir, (firewall mounted, with master under the floor of the cab), and then went to take the connecting hose off, prepared to dump some fluid from the hose and the hose attachment cap on the master.....nothing came out. The master was high and dry.
So it seems I was stymied by a stupid air bubble. Kind of amusing, actually.

 

Had a friend plumbed a brake fluid pump into the manifold of his old F-100 many years ago. Hit the 007 smoke screen switch when people rode his tail. Yeah, he was that guy

Love the hydraulic clutch set-up! Going to be a clean look

Joe

 

The mystery of the "Non-Bleeding Clutch" continued last night. I put it all back together, knowing the master was properly bench bled. I knew it moved fluid. I knew the reservoir had fluid, and when I filled it, air bubbles came up as it filled the line, as I knew it should have, as it is mounted probably around 2 feet above the master.
Yet, it would not bleed. Again!
After a few grumble sessions and raising questions about the truck's parentage, and even comparing it to Oedipus, I decided to begin again. All of it this time, top to bottom. Because when I took off the hose attachment car from the top of the master.....no fluid. It should have instantly drained the reservoir into the catch basin beneath.
At last I knew where the problem lie. Somewhere between the reservoir and master.
My initial suspicion was that there was a chunk of molding crap left in either that plastic cap, or the reservoir itself.
Upon inspection, I found those to be free of defects. But when I took the hose off, the fluid remained inside the hose without freely draining. At last! The culprit is close at hand!
No light would shine thru when the hose was straightened, so I shoved a length of wire in.
Lo and behold....The Culprit revealed. And, it was my own doing.
A vacuum plug inside the hose. (seen in the first photo next to some washers). A plug that fit snugly inside the hose that I had put there to keep debris out while I located a spot for the reservoir, and drilled the holes. It had become the debris itself! And the result was the master was not getting fluid.
I have found the culprit and it is I!

 

If you can't get that clutch bled, you might try a Phoenix reverse injection bleeder. They are a bit of a pain to use but it should work well on a clutch system like yours. I have one, don't use it often but it can be a problem solver.

Lou Manglass

 

Thanks Lou. Always good to have options. I am confident & hopeful now that the blocked hose is clear, it will bleed normally. Soon enough I will know!

 

I repeat: anytime something happens, the 1st thing I say is " what did I do".