Hot Rods Split wishbones, hairpins or 4 bar front end?

Trashcan that axle and 4-bar, get a good original axle and wishbones, and start over with tried and true methods.

 

That’s sort of where i’m at. I have another 36 axle with wishbones and most of an x member out back of the shop on a field car / joker I bought for the firewall. Pretty rough, though. The axle in the car seems to have new kingpins and is “upgraded(??) with some sort of disc brake setup with a late Ford bolt pattern.

The car’s x member is hacked so it might be tough to mount split bones without replacing most of it. The rails are better than any I have seen locally, though.

My 36 Pickup has what I think is the chassis engineering kit you referenced.

The front spring looks new, but doesn’t have reversed eyes. Looks like a Posies.

Steering box decodes as a 68 Mustang and is on an aftermarket frame adapter. Pitman arm hits the tie rod and there were two ugly GM tilt columns lying on the floor. Steering was never hooked up.

Plan was to go with a sbf and aod to replace the sbc and Muncie that came with this mess. Have to decide that route before I tackle splitting the bones to replace this 4 bar.

Firewall was hacked with pop rivets and bondo.


Again, I apologize for diverting this thread. I’ll start a new one for the rear end / suspension.

 

Here’s a few more pictures. I think the batwing was mounted far back to clear the tierod and draglink of the cross steer setup.

Not all ideas are good ideas.

 

That's fluggin frightening...

 

Yup!

You should see the butchery the did to a formerly solid set of 36 front fenders in the name of customization.


That’s why I am questioning whether the actual batwing parts are factory (aftermarket) items. The welds and overall construction look fine. Nothing like the hack on the spring hangers, with the perch bolt in shear, to say nothing about the welds on the transmission mount.


The car came with a Wisconsin title and a Brookfield address. The tires seem to be a Farm and Fleet brand, and probably from the early seventies. No date code on them.

I feel pretty safe, since I don’t think it ever made it to driveable stage of completion before the project was shelved.

 

Ok next issue 3 3/4” drop steering arms won’t clear the wishbones . Speedway says they use a 1 3/4 “ drop steering arms for this but I don’t see how the would be into the middle of the wishbones . Any ideas

 

I’ve found a set 4-1/4” drop but they have been cut lengthened and welded back together . Just sounds like a bad idea . Your thoughts?

 

Contact SoCal speedshop, they will have what you need.

 

Different wishbones have different heights. And maybe you could put the tie rods into the bottom side of the arm. Or if it's a forged arm you could bend it even more

 

Even if I put the tie rods on the bottom side the nuts will hit the wishbones . Heating and bending won’t get me low enough either.

 

Best I beam (still) made is by Pete & Jakes (the old C E axle). I've built chassis (& axles) for 35 years. I have put Ford wishbones on forged end tubular axles for most of those years. NO problems ! All that b s about twisting / not twisting is just that. How many guys drive their hot rod over 70 mph or on rough roads anyway, well maybe the "BONES"..... I sold a 5" chopped 32 3 w to Bruce Geisler a couple years ago with that setup. I had previously run it at the ECTA 125 mph. I personally think wishbones or hairpins are hot rod friendly. Just do them right. Note : I am using old Deuce Factory 4 bars under my project 32 full fendered Fordor with BB chevy. Can't see um & ride better . See my reply elsewhere on best way to fit wishbones to dropped axle, hint : turn upside down & use straight steering arms...tierod & draglink clear above axle. Happy Holidays guys. Alan

 

Yes they will be above the axle and into the shocks

 

So many people have done this successfully over the decades. I'd really like to see pictures of the patient here.

 

I just don’t like the thought of buying cut and welded steering arms . It seems like a big safety hazard to me.

 

Anybody have pictures of what I need here?

 

On this 29 roadster I used split bones. I wanted the attach points under the car to remove some of the twisting action, by fabricating a skeleton of tubing that dropped down for added strength.

 

Ok I now understand swapping the steering arms and putting he tie rod in front of the axle. But doing that where do I mount the shocks they won’t work with the mounts on the bottom of the spring perches?

 

You don't want the tie rod in front, only as a last resort.

 

You can split the bones. They don't care if you are running a drop axle or not.
Personal preference here I do not like the look of a 4 bar on the front. They did get used in the early '60s maybe before that. back then they built them with tie rod ends.

I do like hairpins and right this minute if you look in the want ads here there is a pair for sale reasonable.

Now I have not cruised this entire thread but most will tell you that if you are using a tube axle that you will need to run a 4 bar. I do not agree with that and have run hairpins on a tube axle with good results. Long before I came around they also ran split bones on a tube axle with good results as well. you can take this information as information only. You have to decide if what someone else has done will work for you.

Now while we are at it someone is going to tell you that splitting the bones turns your axle into a sway bar. That works well on paper but is not actually the case on application. if it was the same guys would be splitting thier bones. Everyone who is gonna go fast wants a sway bar.

Anyway back to it the axle dropped or not does not know if you split thew bones and that will work if you want.

 

Marty I agree , I don’t like the idea of the tie rod being in front of the axle but I can’t see another way at this point , I can’t find a good set of steering arms that aren’t cut and welded that drop low enough to clear.

 

Tie rod in front of the axle is Ok if you are willing to heat your steering arms and get your ackerman correct. Ackerman wrong and you get boat steer.

If your tie rod does not clear your radius rods you modify the steering arms, tie rods and/or the radius rods to make it work. I have seen lots of things done over the years, be creative.

 

Pictures anyone?

 

Well thanks for the help…. O ordered the cut and welded ones I don’t have the luxury of time on this build.

 

How about a picture of what YOU have?

 

Oops; thought I posted these pictures the other day; but must not have finished and sent it.

Other than stating you have a Model A style frame, dropped axle, and some wishbones; you don't really seem to get into any detail why normal dropped steering arms don't work which makes it kind tough to address your question.

Anyway here are a couple pictures of an A frame with a dropped axle front end with Speedway dropped arms, tie rod under '40 bones with plenty of clearance.

CE arms and SoCal dropped arms work the same way.

 

Thank you Rich B. I’m at the same point as your build but my arms don’t clear with the 3-3/4” drop. Sorry for bad picture angle I can’t remember to take picks when I’m out there …. To busy getting things done.

 

From your picture; it looks like the usual stuff that normally get along fine together.

Try to get some pictures of axle/spindle/wishbone area where you are having this interference.

My buddy and me put it together for his son; but his wife didn't think it was appropriate for their kids. My friend's wife then passed the '54 BelAire we were building for her to them and the "A" went down the road.

 

Wisbones, you can split em if going low... If you need to correct caster, you cut it by the flange and weld it back up.

If your staying highboy style, 3-4" drop, keep them together and put it together... This car is proof it can be done and still look cool. Plus it functions better this way...

 

We all have our own opinions but I really like these 4 link bars that I got from Speedway.

 

I am very torn on what's right or wrong even after reading article after article on this subject. I really like the look of the traditional stuff but I just picked up a 32 with a 4 bar setup and a Magnum drop tube axle. I think i want to go with hair pins to complete the look of my fender less but do I need to replace the drop tube axle? I don't mind replacing the tube axle with a forged beam drop axle but then I have a bunch of nice parts that are basically useless.