Yeah I’m not sure why I seem to have so much sediment. I have the screen above the fuel valve and a filter in the sediment bowl. I clean everything out, pop the carb apart & blow it out, reassemble and it runs great for a couple days then it goes back to sputtering when accelerating and I see there’s silt in the bottom of the sediment bowl & carb bowl when I pop it apart. I figure I’ll try boiling water in the tank and see if that helps. It's not like rust flakes, it looks like river sand. I don't even know how it's getting past the screen.
Agree, the fine silt gets thru the screen. I had at first one of those glass filters that unscrew so you can clean them, with a plastic screen inside, chrome ends, very common in motorcycle shops, my friend who owns "dune buggy supply" sells them by the hundreds, and they dont work. plastic screen is not fine enough, and like you, I had mud in the carb bowl and had to blow it out once in a while. Once I changed to a clear plastic filter with the paper element inside, I have never had mud in the bowl again. very cheap solution to the problem
Uh, those glass tube filters are WRONG! they are a fire hazard, often leak, have very poor flow rating (not applicable on a banger) and filter poorly. Look for a place that does radiators. If not, buy something hard, gritty and sharp, toss it in the tank and shake it like a 60's go-go for as long as you can, and repeat for a dozen times. Empty and flush.
Pulled the tank today, tried to boil it but it's too big to fit in my spaghetti pot so I will try something else later. In the meantime a new shift tower arrived for the '36 transmission I picked up a while back and I started playing with it again now that I can shift it. Trying to wrap my head around all these gears is giving me a migraine but I can tell something is obviously wrong. The gears on the mainshaft rotate in the same direction as the gears in the bottom of the case that they want to mesh with, so as soon as you take it out of neutral the transmission locks up with all the gears trying to turn against each other.
sounds like the low/reverse fork is not in the slot, so its trying to go in 2 gears at once, then stops
I can see the forks going into the slots on the sliders as I drop the shift tower down. I'm probably still doing something wrong though haha. e; Got it... the slider for 2nd/3rd was sticking but it freed up. It would move just enough for it to feel, from the shifter end, like it was changing gears. It's hard to get a feel for the travel when your transmission is laying on its side on a furniture dolly. The long, gracefully curved 36 shift lever wasn't helping. Also the Model A transmission (which is the only manual transmission I've ever driven) has no detents for the forks so I didn't know to feel for them engaging. Thinking muriatic acid wash for the gas tank then POR15 tank sealer. There is some old paint/sealer/whatever inside the tank that is both tacky and flaking, probably the cause of all my problems... also I'm sure there's still dirt/sand trapped on the other side of the baffles.
Try citric acid instead of muriatic.... much more user friendly. You can mix it as strong as you want, it's not going to hurt anything. Slosh it around good, let the tank sit FULL for a day or so, then flush with lots of water. Dump in LOTS of baking soda (a couple of pounds or more) and thoroughly slosh once more. Rinse well and dry (blow air through it, maybe a heat gun or hair drier). Then inspect for the old sealer. If it is present, you may have to resort to putting "objects" in and moving it around in order to get rid the crud. I don't have a picture or drawing of the tanks, but there are baffles inside that need to be taken into account. Good luck!
in '28's scenario to dry the tank. if you have a shop vacuum with the hose that can plug into the suction side AND the exit, plug the hose in the exit (blow) side and hold it to the filler neck. Tank sealers often end up causing more issues than they resolve. IMHO, the old sealer in your tank will plug up the screen and filter, not be the sediment in the carb. If you can borrow (or find real cheap) a cement mixer, you could chuck the tank in (plugged) filled with liquid and/or grit to clean the inside.
I agree with that ^^^, get the old sealer outa there, and in your dry Texas climate you will not have constant new rust problems. I have a rig I made for painting wheels originally, but I have since made adapters to spin lots of stuff, like gas tanks. Turns at 5 rpm, I put a mixture of crushed granite, which is small sharp chips they put on the roads here on the frozen tundra, and some water so its sort of a fluid slush that will flow while it turns. Tanks were originally zinc coated to prevent rust, so if the tank is just dirty, like with old varnish, I then use BB's , and strong soap like simple green to try and leave the zinc intact. I gotta get on a different computer for pics...hang on
My spinner rig, its been posted here before. mainly made for painting wire wheels, as there are so many angles to cover all spokes. The other benefit is no skill required, you can just about pour the paint on and it flows out perfect while turning at 5 rpm.
Trevor, come help me weld and grind on my car, we can strap your tank to my 9N tractor rear wheel, jack it up, throw a tow chain in the tank and put it in first gear. When we get done welding and grinding for the day the tank will be clean!
He’s on the way… which means I really need to finish the teardown tonight, as he should be here tomorrow morning!
Make sure you have any body bushings/tape/bolts ready, and if you have time, clean the portion of the body that can't be accessed after installation. I'm sure it's going to come off again someday, but might as well get it nice while you can. This applies to the frame serial number too. Take pics, document the area. This might help, I'm sure there are others https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/body-lift.320996/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-lift-the-body-off-a-stock-model-a.126530/ With 2 of you, I'd lean toward the jack the car up, undo the body, tall jackstands or saw horses and 4X4s lift back then front, having the 4X4s support the body, then lower the chassis and roll out. Better to have more eyes and hands, but gotta get stuff done.
Also, think before you paint yourself into a corner. Do this outside with easy access, if possible. If you do it inside the garage, you will have a rolling chassis in the way when you want to load the body into his truck and have to manhandle it from the back of the garage into his bed.
My driveway is a hill the entire way down but we may roll it out into the street to do the job. Not sure yet exactly what the approach will be, with only two of us it will probably be a battle no matter what.
Your driveway is kinda steep but you have plenty of room to move around. Wear gloves and make Travis help! Post progress pictures!
Travis will be at work, but, I just remembered I have an engine hoist. If we work in the street the hoist will make it a cinch, and no traffic passes in front of my house so that should give us lots of room... just hope we get the truck put together enough to drive it back into the garage under its own power or it's gonna be a bitch to get it back up there. We wanted to shoot some video but it's gonna be hard with the two of us but I will definitely be taking pictures whenever I can.
Go man go! Hey I have everything ready to do some grinding and welding on my project when you are ready. I know the holidays are at hand, and you now can get moving on your final ride, but after the first of the yr I want to come over and check out your truck and give you a hand if need be. Then maybe you can make it over here a few times to give me a hand. I want to have my shit on the road by May. I have a show to go to!
Hopefully after Christmas I'll have my more fuel efficient car back and I won't be lugging my 7mpg Ram over there, but I'll do what I gotta do! I told you I'd come help out and if the truck has to wait a little while that's ok. I don't have any shows to make!
I know you will want some help when it's time to wire it up, but anything you need, feel free to give me a shout! That wiring will be a fun project!
Sweep the heck out of the driveway, those hoist wheels hate rocks. If you can mount a pulley next to the fridge on the back wall, a rope can be run to the front of the chassis, in to the pulley and back out to a truck to pull the chassis into the garage uphill. The links mention unbolting the steering box to lay down and clear the column out thru the floorboard. I'd get the steering wheel and levers loose too, to make it easier to feed the body off. You may decide to keep it all together and protect the levers/linkage. The chassis may be tough to roll with the box unbolted. Where it's sitting in the picture, the truck backing in may hit the curb just as the tailgate is close to the back of the body. Test this before lifting the body. 3-4 feet in or out could make a big difference. It may be easier to load the coupe into your bed, then back his truck up and slide the PU cab onto the chassis. Last, move the coupe body from your truck to his. This would be good if both trucks are similar bed height and he's willing to help with the cleaning and mounting. A sheet of plywood will help here too. Best of luck, hope to see pictures of the truck cab on your frame soon!
I have pushed the whole car up into the garage by myself a time or two, it's an absolute BITCH but with two of us it will be doable if we just get the truck body bolted down and don't get it running today. As for getting the body off... I think, yeah I'm gonna have to lay down the steering column and also pull the shifter top off. With that the crane should be able to do the rest of the work. I think we were planning on just being stubborn asses and muscling it off but it weighs 600 pounds so that may not be practical lol.
Had myself and 3 friends lift a 40 Plymouth stripped body shell up onto a retaining wall to get it out of the street. It sucked, big time. Body ended up on garage roof for a couple years to allow garage access. That was my first house. Big lot, great view, nice house. It sucked for a car guy with the one car driveway and one car garage (no power). A come-along is slow and annoying if it's a cheap one, but beats having to push the chassis and kick the wheel chock. Make sure the saw horses are wide enough to let the chassis (rear axle/tires) roll between them.
Donovan called and said he had some trouble in Gallup this morning and wasn't gonna make it in til way late this evening, so we're gonna work on it in the morning. But I already had it out and I wanted to save us some time tomorrow, so I put my problem solving skills to the test. First I got the body on sawhorses, but the sawhorses are kinda shady, so I didn't feel comfortable leaving it there overnight. Rod's advice about putting it in my truck and transferring it to Donovan's from there came to me while I was considering my options. It was a battle to do this by myself, but I come from a long line of stubborn ass people.
Power washed the chassis. Looks a damn sight better than it did, it really is a super solid frame. And man, I am in love with my $20 swap meet wheels. That is the meaning of patina right there.
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