These spindles look like the top was damaged from a bad bearing. I plan on using 1936 Lincoln king pins. They are similar to 32 ford without the cup. Can I machine this flat and not cause issues? Thanks
If forged , weld up , ReMachine, And re ream to the size you like, I would still try to use a bushing .
I haven't looked at an exploded view of the assembly. but IIRC (and someone please correct me if I'm wrong)... The top of the spindle doesn't bear any weight...it's all carried by the upper surface of the lower lug (make sense?). That surface of the upper lug usually had a heavy felt washer to hold lube for the spring perch/mechanical brake bracket. Looks to me like corrosion was the culprit. Smooth it out and reassemble.
On an original 1932 Ford, the bearing sits on top of the top knuckle of the spindle (per the OP pic), immediately under the king pin flange.
Yes, the top is the issue as that is where the bearing sits. 32-34 spindles are different than later ones.
I would weld it up, put new bushings in, and use a rod thru the bushings to find the 90 degree mark and mill it flat again. It will take some figgerin to mount it on a mill table. Could also make your own cutter that would run true in the bushings and run off a drill
Does anyone know the thickness this area should be? That would give a target on what to mill it to. Thanks
@Duke have you compared the Lincoln kingpin with an original 32 kingpin?. The cotter pin needs to be in the same spot in order to locate the bearing in the same spot
I am waiting for the kingpins to be delivered. Will let you know when it arrives. The guy selling them to be tells me this is what he used on his cars.
The 36 pins arrived, they appear to be the same as 1932 without the cup. Good news, found another set of spindles with no damage!
I would suggest ditching the stock bearings and running the Torrington bearings between the axle and spindle. It makes a huge difference in how much effort is required to steer. I can send you the numbers if you like.
The king pins have to be bearing hard to not develop grooves. The needle bearings have a very small contact area and will destroy the king pins from the contact loads. A friend tried them and it was a disaster. I saw it myself!
I would love to know as well, I'm at the point on my build where I need to rebuild the '32 spindles I have.
If you machine off the top of the spindle, whatever you remove, replace with shims. I plan to use the Torrington bearings as well. I believe you can use 37-41 king pins with the Torrington bearings/washers. They will hang down about 1/2", but easy fix for that. Good tidbit on the Lincoln kingpins!
The numbers are: thrust bearing- Torrington NTA-1423 and shims- TRA-1423, the shims are .031 thick. You want to make sure the area shown in the photo is flat and square to the king pin, and the same is necessary on the underside of the axle. The rollers in the bearing are small diameter and they must be loaded evenly. I think ‘37-‘41 k/p’s will have the keeper notch in the correct place but will be too long and you may want to cut them to length. The other issue would be brakes. Ford Lockheed’s can naturally be adapted but I can’t remember seeing any off the shelf caliper brackets for the early spindles lately.
Lincoln pins are larger dia. IIRC. Can't use needle bearings with regular king pins. Thrust bearing can be used which should be the numbers above. 41'/48' are the longer pins, sq back spindles.
Sorry for the slow response @Duke The bearings are easiest to get fro Koyo. TRA1423 is for the washers and NTA1423 for the bearings. The washers come in packs of ten which is handy . You need one on each side of the needle roller and then shim the bottom with some of the extra washers and king pin shims. Note the bearings go on the bottom of the axle. They need to fit fairly tight, tighter than you would expect. They can't bounce or the bearings can shatter. I used normal 48 ford truck king pins with a new notch ground in them and the end trimmed off.