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Technical Lowered, now oil pan doesn’t clear… help?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bryan Shupe, Nov 26, 2021.

  1. Bryan Shupe
    Joined: Jan 5, 2020
    Posts: 13

    Bryan Shupe

    A41156FE-25AE-4D3B-B33B-AEDB02A9C38D.jpeg AFECAB7B-370D-49A6-A6A1-9CCF69D3650C.jpeg 8F75CAB7-43FF-416C-85CE-3D43A4E5109B.jpeg I’m doing a build and could use some help… 1939 Ford Pickup Build.

    I bought a frame already to go… dropped front axle, disc fronts, steering box, 8” rear end, shocks, springs… you get the picture.

    The gentleman I got it from typically uses a Chevy power plant but I intend to use a Flathead Mercury/T5 combination.

    As I put my mock up block in its standard position the oil pan bumps into the tie rod and drag link. I’m wondering if using a truck oil pan will make any difference? Or do I need to do something different with the tie rod and drag link? Pretty sure most of the components are Speedway.

    I’ll try to post pics… thanks for any thoughts or advice.
     
  2. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 31,164

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Tie rods should be below the wishbone, it is typical to have to heat and bend the steering arms to make it work after installing a dropped axle
     
  3. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,332

    oldiron 440
    Member

    Looks like a little slicing and dicing to make that oil pan work.
     
  4. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 2,857

    adam401
    Member

    If it were Ford spindles id heat the arms and move the tie rod and drag link below the wishbone. But ive never messed with those bolt on arms or presumably aftermarket pitman arm so maybe thats not an option? I dunno. The flathead truck oil pan isnt gonna get you there.
     

  5. Mark beat me to it. HRP
     
  6. twenty8
    Joined: Apr 8, 2021
    Posts: 2,349

    twenty8
    Member

    I know this is off the subject, but you do know you have the wheels on inside-out, right ???
     
    Happydaze likes this.
  7. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,785

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    If I wereyouI would buy some Chassis Engineering dropped steering arms that have the bolts thru both the spindle and the arm. Much safer.
     
  8. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,494

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    As above^^. I will add are you sure the water pumps are the right year as some have a different height in the mounting tab, I think.
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  9. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,582

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What brand of axle? On several after market dropped axles the stock ford steering arms wont clear the drop sufficiently. If thats the case you may need to lop them off and fit aftermarket dropped arms. Without a clear side view i am sure you have close to zero suspension travel before the tie rod hits the frame, maybe.
     
    X-cpe likes this.
  10. You need the truck rear sump pan, the middle sump passenger car pan will not work even if the suspension was stock
     
    anthony myrick likes this.
  11. I used the CE arms to get under the wishbones; also made up a drag link out of straight tube to do away with the bulky adjustment sleeve. Pete & Jakes sell the CE arms now.
    link.jpg
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  12. I’m saving a pan from a f5 truck for this reason
     
  13. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,379

    31Apickup
    Member

    Just a FYI on the Chassis Engineering steering arms, that part of the business along with the dropped axles were acquired by Pete and Jakes, while everything else went to Heidts. You can get the steering arms direct from Pete and Jakes or can buy them thru Summit Racing.
     
  14. Bryan Shupe
    Joined: Jan 5, 2020
    Posts: 13

    Bryan Shupe

    I am aware… I just have donuts on it to move it around.
     
    twenty8 likes this.
  15. Bryan Shupe
    Joined: Jan 5, 2020
    Posts: 13

    Bryan Shupe

    I didn’t know Chassis Engineering quit… can you give me a part number with Pete & Jakes? Thanks!
     
  16. Bryan Shupe
    Joined: Jan 5, 2020
    Posts: 13

    Bryan Shupe

    Rich,

    I’ll send you a PM…

    Thanks
    Bryan
     
  17. 42merc
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 900

    42merc
    Member

    Like John's said above.
    You need a 48 -52 f1 truck pan or a 49-50 merc pan with the proper pickup.
    the center sump pan will not work without losing half it's vo!umn.
     
  18. Bryan Shupe
    Joined: Jan 5, 2020
    Posts: 13

    Bryan Shupe

    I put a truck pan on and set it in place a bit… looks like I’ll need to bend the arms a bit or go beneath the wishbones as stated above. Think I’ll make a call to Pete & Jakes to check on options they may have for the arms…
     

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  19. Flathead47
    Joined: Feb 13, 2011
    Posts: 51

    Flathead47
    Member
    from ontario

    As others have said you need to be below the wishbones .... once the weight of the motor is there then you will have very little travel .... Pete & Jakes catalogue has a good explanation of font end axle suspension setups .... get them to send you one
     
    Bryan Shupe and Moriarity like this.
  20. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 31,164

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    yes, imagine the disaster of going over a bump and getting the tie rod smashed between the wishbone and the frame
     
    Bryan Shupe likes this.
  21. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,485

    banjorear
    Member

    Came here to post this.
     
  22. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,056

    19Fordy
    Member

  23. This ^^^^^ is the correct way to deal with it.

    or you can take a ball peen to the oil pan. I have done that too. :oops::eek::D
     
    Moriarity likes this.
  24. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 31,164

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Desoto291Hemi and gimpyshotrods like this.

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