So the trunk floor of my 49 Ford needs to be replaced. I also need a new gas tank because I'm pretty sure it was the original one. I considered getting a replacement factory tank until I measured the distance between the original and the ground at 6". I still plan on going lower static dropped and I don't feel too comfortable with my tank being that close to the road with the super long overhang that the Ford has in the rear. Just to clarify I plan on using a Stewart Warner fuel gauge and make the tank mounting frame/bracing out of angle or tubing. So my questions are; 1) how much higher from the ground does the bottom of the mustang tank sit than the factory tank 2) since I use my trunk for a trunk, how much weight can the top of the tank support? When I go further than an hour or so away from home I take my floor Jack, stands and tools with me 3) When I cut the trunk floor out do I need to put any kind of bracing in (like when chopping a top) or will the body hold everything where it needs to be And 4) CJ Pony parts has a factory style replacement tank that comes with the Mustang sender and all kinds of other stuff that has the sender on the bottom half of the tank. Tanks Inc has a universal Mustang tank that puts the sender on top of the tank inside the trunk. Would the factory 1949 sending unit work in the Tanks Inc tank if I could get the adjustments right or are the dimensions completely off? I'm trying to get as much info as I can before I do anything
You need to replicate the mustang tank mounting in your car. Build a support structure, up to you if it sits higher or lower. Since your trunk needs replaced, you could put the mustang tank at whatever height you want and raise or lower the trunk floor to make it level with the tank.
The bracing I meant was when I cut the hole in the floor to keep the body from twisting or anything. I'm probably going to use angle iron to build the structure to bolt the tank to
The original style Mustang tank is a very user-friendly tank. I have used three so far and they hold the average weight of a small tool box, small rolling hydraulic jack, tire tool and spare tire. I followed the factory idea of having a trunk liner but added a thin piece of 1/4 wood between the top of the tank and liner to help with the cosmetics and strength. On the height or depth of the tank the '64 '65 '66 had a 16 gallon and the '69 '70 had a 20 gallon. That would also make a difference in the mounting depth. From what I remember the fuel pickup and gauge attaches the same way on both tanks. The earlier tank is almost always cheaper to buy. I have never braced (or tied in) the trunk area before removing the old tanks. I assume the tail and quarters are going to keep their shape in place. Plenty of bracing/support for the new tank though before it goes in.
I actually have these 2 in my cart right now. I'll probably go with the 16 gallon due to its lower profile on the top side. From the pictures it looks like the difference in gallons is in the top half but since it's not a clear picture it could also hang down lower. Is there any way I could get a measurement from the trunk floor to the bottom of the tank on the underside of the car for either one? I appreciate the weight reference. It sounds like that would work out fine even though I carry a full size floor Jack with me. As far as cutting the hole out of the trunk floor do I need to do any bracing to keep the car from twisting or is it not an issue? https://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-ta...BG08_uD_HehC-G4Zqx4woNb-EvRl_VmRoC65QQAvD_BwE https://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-with-drain-plug-kit-mustang-1965-1968/p/FTK5/
I believe this is correct. '70 top 'half' sticks up from floor mounting about 3 inches. This would be entirely dependent on your cars condition. Patches, rust, and old damage would all have a say in this. I would think with lots of good metal in all directions you would be fine. I have no idea on factory '49 sending unit compatibility.
If I remember correctly, the depths are the same. The volume difference is made up above the weld seam that is also the bolt flange. I have a 22-gallon Mustang tank in my Falcon, where the 14-gallon original was.
I believe the ohm rating is 10 - 73 for the Mustang sending unit. 10 ohms when full (?) 73 when empty.
I put a 67 falcon in my 51 shoebox. The filler is in a good spot to use the original gas door. I made the trunk just like the mustang/falcon. No need for severe bracing; just broke the metal at 90 degree for strength. Still work in progress since I pulled everything out of the car and redoing all. If it helps others, Ford ranger gas filler was almost perfect to connect falcon tank and shoebox filler door. cN
Yeah that's definitely the rating for the Mustang sending unit the problem is the Ford sending unit doesn't work on ohm's it works with a bi-metallic spring. That's why I'm going with the Stuart Warner fuel gauge but I hate to have a dead gauge in the factory cluster
I used a mustang tank in my 50 Chevy . just cut the hole , used 1/4” flat bar welded around to hole and bolted the tank in and sealed the seams inside and out with seam sealer. Used the mustang sending unit and a universal fuel gauge that matched . Kept the fuel fill in the trunk, used a sealed flip up style fuel cap. removed my back seat and built a fire wall out of thick sheet metal . carpeted the trunk and it was fine. If your putting a jack etc in your trunk make a way to mount them or anchor bungee cords so the stuff does not shift of bounce and you should be golden.
Years ago one of my students used a padlock hasp to do that. He put the loop part up on the rise at the front of the trunk and the hinged part down on the lower level of the trunk so it lay flat when not in use. You could also use hinges to do the same thing if your trunk is flat all the way across.
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