Get a 16 GB USB stick and save all your pics from PB and be done with them...put your hard earned dough into your cars...grrrrrr I despise them...sorry I feel better now... Only problem is you would have to reload them if you closed your account and at 39 pages that's a bit of work...but it would be easy to swap them as you can see them to replace them...
This build has completely blown my mind. Your skills in every area have elevated you to "Rod God" status! For me, personally, it's like being married to a ugly Porn Star, what I got ain't ever gonna' be enough, but still feels good with the lights off......can't wait to see it completed!
Sorry for the hiatus, more travel for the day job.. hanging more TV's... Back on the wagon, sometimes I get ahead of myself. The core support has rounded corners at the bottom.... Our embossing did not.... So the lower embossing was flattened, and marked for the new.. Next on the list, our upper radiator hose is a bit long and needed some support to keep it out of the fan. It's actually a lower hose for a Ford Explorer, but is a perfect fit for our cross flow radiator. So some 16 gauge cold rolled steel is used to fabricate a support bracket.. Next, we had moved the battery from the OEM location on the firewall to the dealer installed Air Conditioning location behind the core support. This has the battery in close proximity to the passenger side header, so we punched some louvers on the core supports side baffle to allow for air flow.
Dayco PN 72384, lower radiator hose for a V6 Ford Explorer, I forget the year range. I had made a conduit profile of the shape I needed and went to local auto parts and asked to look through their hose selection
Thanks, working on my 56 Nomad this winter and will be installing a crossflow as well. Out of my inventory of good used stuff.
Wagon progress! So Jared has been tackling the fun task of prepping interior trim pieces, getting them ready for another round of epoxy.. Another modification we're undertaking, the air cleaner, when mocked up on the engine, showed a tight proximity to the back of the AC compressor. Looking at the clearance we had to the firewall, moving backward 1" will give us much needed breathing room for the AC lines. So out with the old .... And to move rearward, the mounting hole is moved forward one inch.. Next in store is a new bottom for the air cleaner.. A hammerform is used to give us a folded lip out the bottom
At this point we need to hem the flange so the bottom isn't quite so sharp.. A 1/2 x 1/2 aluminum angle is used as a height gauge so we can use the roloc sander to get our flange to a consistent height. This will allow us to use a tipping die in the bead roller to fold the hem.. Then the part is re-installed in the hammer form to hammer the hem flat..
Ummm... might be a dumb question, but why didn't you just cut out the top and bottom with a one inch offset and flip them around? Would have been a lot less time and work.
Thanks guys!! So I've had some questions as to why this or that with modifying the air cleaner. I was going to hold out with the REAL reason, but here goes.... This firewall is just too clean that I can't bring myself to clutter it up (or the wheelwell) by mounting an ignition coil and then being forced into using an overly long coil wire.. So as shown here.... this will be the approximate location as we fabricate a sealed cavity from the bottom side of the air cleaner to mount the coil. This should put the coil wire about two inches in front of the distributor... So this should give us a nice clean look and keep the firewall as open as we can...
Thanks fellas!! Time for some welding.. TIG used to tack the new bottom in place..... I thought my eyesight was going.... time to replace these.. Next, we'll work on the base plate....
More work on the Caddy air cleaner, time to fabricate the pocket for the coil. Our radius brake that is bolted to the front of the shear is used to bend some 18ga into a horseshoe. One side is trimmed short and the other is left long to bend and form the bottom in the magnetic brake. And end plate is cut out to seal off the void from the rest of the air cleaner innards. This gets tacked in place and then fusion welded using the TIG. A holesaw is used to get the hole started and offset Wiss snips to trim out the hole in both the housing and the mounting flange. TIG tacked and fusion welding on the flange, and it then gets trimmed to fit inside the air cleaner housing. Yup, that's what I was looking for...
You're not concerned that how you have the coil mounted there's little chance of proper air circulation past the coil heat sink? I'm assuming that heat sink is there for a reason... I think I'd punch a couple of holes in the 'top' of the well so that the motor draws cooling air past the coil.
Outstanding! Perhaps a quick explanation of "fusion welding" for us untalented, non-welding souls out here, Robert?..... .............Isn't all welding fusion welding?.....Thanks, Don.
Don, perhaps I should have said no-filler fusion weld. The adjacent panels are nice and tight together so you can just fuse the panels together without needing to add filler rod.
The Jalopy Journal
