Hot Rods Olds Powered '29 Roadster Build. Marty Strode

Hot rivets! Man, I wish I had a buck for every hot rivet I drove/bucked. Built steel rail cars for Bethlehem Steel!

 

Those must have been massive rivets too!

 

I have spent the last few days getting the frame for my '40 pickup ready for powder coat. Finishing and dressing welds and straightening the flanges, especially the lower ones, as they are more apt to be tweaked, and dimpled. I use 2 large Crescent wrenches to deal with the flanges, but a heavy duty C-clamp with a steel block works well for the puckers and dimples, along with the edges. After I finish the welding and straightening of the 9" axle housing, I can go back on the '29. This stuff takes up too much floor space and is difficult to work around.

 

I got all of the final touches done on my '40 Pickup chassis, and sent all of the pieces off the my nephew for sandblasting, prior to powdercoat. The rear housing needed final welding and straightening. It will all be back in a week or so, then I can start the reassembly. So, the decks are clear to get back on Jim's 29, with install the rear crossmember and hang the quickchange, starting tomorrow.

 

^^^^ Now that's what I call a C clamp! Kinda diggin' that rear end holder-upper too.
Give us a few pics and tricks for straightening the housing?

 

Bob, after finding what the housing needs to be straight, I chain it down and place the jack (with a half round shoe) in place, under the housing. I rotate the housing until the gap on the end mandrel is at 12 o'clock, and start jacking the housing up, until the mandrel slides in the bearing cup, that confirms the rotation is correct. I then, remove the mandrel and pull the lineup bar 6" back in the hole, to prevent bending the bar during the jacking process. Then I go by feel, jacking it up, and making an ink mark on the jack for reference, then bleeding off the jack, and check the result. It usually takes a few times, and making marks each time to get the desired result. It's a method I have been using for more than 40 years.

 

/\ /\ /\ I love this tech!!! Thanks. Would it be possible to bring the camera back far enough to see the whole set up? (Showing jack location, clamp locations etc.)

 

This is the best shot I have.

 

Thanks Marty. Again for my education...I assume you would need to do this set up for each side? Is the jack placed near the brackets that were welded on (as opposed to the centre of the axle tubes) because welding on the brackets is the likely cause of the misalignment?

 

You are correct, I do one side at a time, and the welding is mostly the problem, however I have checked original housings out of cars and trucks, and they are very seldom perfectly straight. Also, on the opposite side I am straightening, I keep that chain close to the banjo section, to prevent bending that side during the process.

 

Yesterday, I drilled out the rivets, and cleaned misc brackets off the rear c/m, and laid out a template to make the cutouts to fit the c/m in the frame.

 

This morning, I made the frame cutouts, and fitted and tacked the c/m in place. The c/m is set back 7-1/2" from axle center line, to work with 35-36 rear arms. I will box the area and complete the frame tails later.

 

Marty, have you ever used the heat and quench method to straighten an axle? My only complaint is that the smell of roasting gear oil is nauseating! Forgot to drain the oil one time...

We would take the rear out of the car and set it on 2 milk crates with tires on. Spin the axle around and find where a tube was bent from crash damage (usually), then heat the high spot red hot and quench with a wet rag. Might take a couple of tries, but it usually got us back up and running relatively quickly.

 

Dave,
I have tried that method before, and it depends on where the the housing is tweaked. When it's close to the end, it takes a lot more movement than when it's closer to center. I think I will work on the Track Roadster today, stay tuned.

 

Curious how you heat your shop. I believe we are about the same altitude and mine is freezing; usually around 38 degrees on a morning such as today. I have a wood stove but takes forever to warm things up.
Or do you just move fast a deal with it?

 

I have an oil furnace that I have been using since 1978. I have had to do some repairs over the years, and I am lucky to have a buddy that's a heating/air conditioning guy, who gave me a unit that is a twin to mine, for parts. My shop is a total of 2700 sq ft, in three sections, with doors to close off the sections I am not working in. It's a wood building that is fairly well insulated, and on a 30 degree day, I can keep it quite cozy. Also, most of the shop has a 9-1/2 ' ceiling, except where I have a lift and my machine shop, and metal rack. That is 800 sq ft, and has a 12-1/2' ceiling. Where are you located in Wa. ?

 

Thanks for getting back to me. I live a bit north of Longview, 1000ft altitude. My shop is 2400 sq. ft. , 12ft ceilings, well insulated wood construction but I can only close off 600 sq. ft. in the winter. Currently using an old Earth Stove but at 73 years of age it has become difficult for me to wait for that old stove to get up to temperature. I was wondering how you handled things down there. I need to make a change soon. Your fab skills are way above mine so I enjoy following along on the build threads. Thanks for the information.

 

I dug out a block, pan and heads, along with an adapter to the early Ford trans, plus a starter change over. I had forgotten about this engine, but I knew it was out of a boat and had an issue. The boat accessories, water exhaust, and front cover that drove the marine water pump, sold at a swap meet. Looking it over, I see one broken piston, but all the bores look good, along with the bearings. My question for our ACE Olds engine guy @Paul , the heads are #8, would that be 54-55 ? It is a 324, block casting 563922. I will be bolting this together to set up the mounts in the next few days !

 

Yup, '54-'55 heads, need the stamped number at deck surface to date the block.

 

This number Marty is the one that will tell you the year:

 

Just looking at those Olds pictures brings back happy high school memories.

 

Well boys, here are a couple of the rods and pistons, it is standard bore, and the pistons have been knurled. I pulled a rod bearing and they are standard as well. The camshaft has an H stamped on the back end. @vtwhead the serial # is V 136467, and @Paul let me know what you think. I see a difference in these two pistons, as one has 2 F's and the other doesn't. I may be on the lookout for one original matching piston. I think I may be able to scrub this thing up and put it back together. Thanks in advance !

 

I welded some brackets and straightened a housing for a friend on Saturday, and he surprised me with this collection of magazines from 54 to 59. Now I have research material to get this job done right. Thanks Jim !

 

I think that one piston is just double F'd up. Find another that isn't, and slap it back together.

 

My notes make that a 1954 block.

 

I am sure your notes are correct, where would I search to find a replacement piston ?

 

I think it largely depends on how deep you want to get into this engine and what your performance expectations are out of it. If you're just looking to put a stock engine back together that runs well, there are several suppliers that have cast pistons available. I've been wanting to get a kit from Falcon Performance to see how their stuff is. They seem to get great reviews online.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Olds-324-D...ngs-/170896467437?vxp=mtr&hash=item27ca3925ed

If you want a better, stronger, lighter rod and piston package, there is nobody better to go to than Tony Lombardi at Ross Racing.

 

Joe, we are not looking to increase the horsepower, if I could find a good stock one, I would probably just replace it, and go forward.

 

Marty
Give Joe a call at Old Car Parts on Powell, I know they have been more into Chevy stuff but you never know, may be a good contact source, ask if they have a parts sale/wanted board.

 

Bolting this setup engine trans together was going great, until I ran into a problem with adapter plate bolts vs transmission. I went from hex cap screws to socket head allens, and still have a conflict. I could countersink the holes in the plate and use flathead allens, but I took the adapter off an engine in a 41 Ford pickup, so it was together once. BTW the Hurst copy engine mounts from Steve West, fit like a glove.