Technical Really stuck valves on a flathead

Hey all.
Got a hold of a 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook that's been sitting for many years. Just starting to dig into it. Turning the engine by hand it would only go 180 degrees, so I held my breath and opened her up. Cylinders all look good, but I've got some stuck valves. One is stuck open a little, but 2 others are stuck closed.

I got the valve chambers covers off and opened up the tapper adjusters so I could get a screwdriver in there. Wedging the screwdriver in with a hammer carefully, wiggling...I could not get the either of the valves to go up at all.
So, I'm looking for ideas! The valve is stuck shut so I cant get penetrating oil down in the guide. Should I whack the valve face with a hammer? Use heat?

Thanks.
~martin

 

Since you have the tappet cover off spray whatever your best penetrant is through the springs to get to the valve stems. You may also be able to get some to soak through the top by putting some penetrant puddles on the valve seat/valve interface. You've got the right idea by prying on the stem between it and the lifter. If they move up a bit, tap down softly, rinse and repeat.

 

I agree with Ebb, remove the intake. Two things stick valves in my experience: Dried out, sticky, gasoline varnish, and corrosion. So I alternate back and forth spraying Berryman's B12 carburetor cleaner which is excellent at dissolving varnish, and either PB blaster or Gibbs lubricant.
I would remove the side cover, remove or compress the valve springs, wrap up piece of aluminum or copper sheet around the valve stem and then clamp down on the valve stem really really tight with a very good vise grip. You should be able to start rotating it back and forth. Spray it as you rotate. Keep working it that way, then try and hammer the valve open by pounding on the vise grip, or else pry up on the tip of the valve with something. If you can get it to open just a little bit, you can get something under the head of the valve to start prying it up while you twist it and you can get access to spray from the valve stem / guide interface from above.
It takes time and patience but you can get them loose.

 

Sounds like a good plan. Ill give it a try today. Thanks much.

 

Just let us know how it works out

 

Tired iron take your time let it soak good maybe a couple days try to move it. Soak again wait, you don’t want to do any damage

 

...and don't be too sure that you can't get penetrant past a closed valve. It's pretty common on an old engine to have leaky valves, so this may work to your advantage. I would alternate penetrant with solvent (acetone) over a period of a few days, while trying to pry the valve open. Patience, grasshopper, patience. Good luck!

 

Acetone /ATF will get it un-stuck.

 

Or... (wait for it...) you could replace it with a V8. Had a 318 in my '50 Dodge.

 

Hey rustydusty. I spotted your car on a different post. Meadowbrook or coronet?

Good day today. There are only 3 stuck valves, turns out, and all of them are exhaust. Ive got two of them moving a 1/4" up and down, and the third about an 1 /8" . i was able to wedge a thin screwdriver blade in and tap it in a bit further with a hammer. Then up top and get the thin straw in the valve crack and spray pb blaster. Then tap the valve back down and repeat. That's MANY trips up and down. But, it's working.

thanks for the tips, everyone.

 

You probably just bent the valve with the screwdriver and hammer.

 

According to his original post he's wedging the screwdriver in between the lifter and valve tip, not at the top of the valve. Could still bend it I suppose, bt not as risky as banging a screwdriver between the seat and valve.

 

I'd put the lifters back in and turn the camshaft to push up on the valves. Put a little moly paste on the cam lobe first.

 

After taking out Freddie's froze valve assemblies ( alot of them in pieces ) I know you really gotta beat on them to bend them and takes two 36" prybars to pop the head off a valve

 

With the valve open , remove the spark plug on the cylinders being worked on and blow compressed air into the cylinder from the plug hole to force any dirt clods up out of the port so you don't end up with another symptom

 

Nope, not doing that! Just carefully putting a screwdriver in the gap between lifter and valve stem and and tapping (coaxing) a little lift. Then back up top and tapping the valve back down. Once they're coming up 50%, then I start to try to turn them back And forth a bit. And lots of penetrating oil.
Got three exhaust valves freed up, and one more to go!

 

Got em all loose.
And you guys were right...lots of penetrating oil and patience.