1935-1936 Ford pickup tech for the masses

So I am closing in on getting things figured out and dialed in but need a few more measurements to verify locations of parts. I have figured out that working front to back seems to be the best. I am needing the following dimensions.

The amount of lean back that the grille shell has. I have used a drywall square resting on the floor and just touching the center lower "chin" peak and measure at the top just above the grille stainless trim.

The next one may be hard to do. I don't have the very front fender braces which allow the fenders to "flop" up and down but I am going to make some braces. But I have no good way to tell exactly where the fenders should be and think that if I know what the overall width from outside edge to outside edge is that would be very helpful. I used the same drywall square just touching the outside center wheel opening edge and made a mark on the floor on each side, rolled the truck back and then measured the overall width.

Next is verifying the location of the cab front to back. A good reference measurement is from the front lower edge of the door to the seam where the front fender and running board meet.

How much gap is between the back of the cab and front of bed.

I really do appreciate all the help I have gotten so far.

 

Just my opinion, but I think you need the front fender braces. They are a substantial part of the structure and they keep everything located. It would be tough to fabricate anything that would work as well. I’m on a business trip or I would get you the measurements. Maybe someone can chime in that has access to their truck.

 

@gregsmy I think I have an extra set of fender braces if you don’t have them. There’s also two little braces (if memory serves) that go on each side of main brace to the frame.

 

They reproduce the smaller braces but not the larger one that helps support the headlight.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3531704582...1291&msclkid=a35ec47c0d1c12bd0b27a5e91d61c80a

 

I appreciate all the help. I agree that the fender braces would be the way to go. The measurements will definitely help me make sure I am getting things located correctly. I was reading some where about someone having issues with the fiberglass front fenders not fitting correctly and that they had to "compress" or "bow" them together front to back to get the arch correct and fit the cab bottom. So I tried with mine and it seemed to help, I could probably squeeze it together about a 1/2" or so. The more I work at it the better it gets. And like anything else one change affects the rest of how everything fits. My issue has always been that I would work at it for a day or so over the weekend, get frustrated with how things where fitting and then something else comes up and I stop working on it. Then a few months later I couldn't remember what I was doing or what the problem was. So I have been making notes and drawings as I go, and am trying to stay track on getting it finished. I have some time off next week that I plan to work on it undisturbed.

 

I have another question regarding the front fenders. Is the inner fender panel designed to add any rigidity to the fender or is it there just as a splash shield? When you have an original steel fender would it flex if that panel was not bolted in? Or cause the typical cracking I see in the center of the wheel arch?

 

You need one, but my dad made his own because of the M2 control arms. They are structural but they don’t have to be oem.

 

Thanks for the reply. I don't have anything in there now. Was wondering if they would help to hold them in position better and possibly help with the arching of the fenders. Whenever you or anyone else has time I would appreciate the measurements I asked about. I moved the cab around a little more and the grill shell and got the fit much better.

 

Happy post Thanksgiving. My buddy and I ended up taking his 8yo son and my 17yo daughter to the Turkey Rod Run on Friday and I hoped I could find a 35-36 truck to get some measurements from. Believe it or not I only saw 2, but one was mostly original and I was able to look it over pretty well. But I forgot one measurement I need and had no way to accurately measure the grill "lean" back like I asked about in my previous posts. The one I forgot was the dimension from the top center of the rear fender to the top edge of the bed side. This is to help me verify the correct location of the rear fenders height on the bed side. Thanks for the help.

 

The inner fender is there to help locate the fender properly - I'm not sure how you could align the fender to grill to body without them. Without it, you would have only a couple of bolts holding the fender on - so structural(?) - sort of... I used the fiberglass ones from Sacramento Ford - they were quite thick and worked well. (https://www.vintageford.com/word_search.cfm?line=V-8&DescEntry=inner fender&Category=)

A couple of pics of them installed

IMG_5246 by JaxChevy posted Dec 22, 2021 at 9:50 AM

IMG_5001 by JaxChevy posted Dec 22, 2021 at 9:50 AM

 

Anyone have pictures of how these are located in the pickup?

 

They go between the rear frame crossmember and the bed. It has a step notch in it and the bolt goes down through the center.

 

Thanks. I can’t seem to make sense of the location understanding that a bolt goes through to the frame. Being an old farm truck I am not sure what may have been modified. Would love to see a picture

 

Mine is blown apart or I would send you a pic.

Here are the blocks.

They mount here.

 

Here is the block sitting in the corner. Does it somehow line up with the hole you see? I think some of the tabs were cut off the back of the frame. I put in a spreader bar that you see below.
The bed frame is lined up roughly with the tank filler so the bed location seems close.
thoughts?

 

The block actually sits on the crossmember of the frame where the hole is. The notch is cut out for the rear bed piece I showed you a pic of. The bolts come down through the bed floor. The flange of the rear bed piece sits on the notch , if that makes sense. You should be able to see the bed wood if you are kneeling down behind the truck.

 

it would make sense that the bigger notch would line up under the rear cross member
I am not sure the bed frame and tank have shims?

H

 

Turn it 90*. The notch goes towards the back. There is also a wood substructure that the bed frame uses between the steel floor and the bed structure. It’s been 20 years since I have installed a set. My memory is foggy. I need to run by my dads and see if his is installed, where I can get some pics .

 

Thanks very much. That would make sense
I have scoured the net and can’t find that info

 

I saw there picture. What year is it?
My frame is different. The front brace is metal. If you turn the support like roothawg says then wood would be back against the rear support

 

I am still not sure how many modifications must be done to put a 35 grille on a 36 truck. I can easily see that the top radiator tank would not allow the 35 grille to be just an easy swap. Any info and suggestions would be appreciated. I see that many guys have done this but I think most of them have switched the flathead for a SBC. Thanx in advance

 

Nothing. They are interchangeable. One is just about an inch and a half shallower. The radiator is the same on 35-36. The fill port is under the cap on top for both.

 

It was brought to my attention that the 35 and 36 show different part numbers in the green book. I am guessing that maybe the 35 may have had some cooling issues, because the 36 is supposed to be larger. Maybe this is what drove the larger grill to accommodate this change. Just pure speculation on my part.

With that said, I am not too proud to admit that I misspoke. Thanks for letting me know Don.

 

I got this from a fellow hamber a few years ago and I wish I could remember who it was that sent this. I would give credit, where it is due.

Anyway, this helps determine what doors you have. Not that it matters a lot, but it is a great reference tool.

 

I have a few questions about the 35 I’m working on. I bolted the bed down and the 2 behind the cab looks like they take special bolts. Or could I use any bolt? Second question is where can I find a assembly manual for this truck. I didn’t take it apart, so I’m guessing how things
should be put together. Any help would be appreciated. View attachment 5692025 View attachment 5692026 View attachment 5692027 View attachment 5692028 View attachment 5692029 View attachment 5692030 View attachment 5692031 View attachment 5692032 View attachment 5692033

 

Mack Products in Moberly, MO has all of the correct bolts. Take a look at the catalog. That should help.

 

I saw that, but the description isn’t good.

 

its amazing that this thread is going strong since 2008. This thread has a lot of good information. I just read all 17 pages again. Thank you for this thread Roothawg!

 

Anytime my friend.