Technical Dent Pulling Low Spots on Model A Decklid Question

Hey All,

Over the last few months, I have been tackling all the dents and dings on my Model A Coupe. I'm a novice that's learning and practicing as I go. I actually enjoy the process.

My goal isn't a perfectly metal-finished body. That would be great but I am aiming to get the body better than it is and reduce the amount of filler left after prepping for paint.

This latest project is my decklid and I can't work from the backside. I've gotten it into better shape by working the weld seam down and working out some areas that I could access. There was a pretty big dent and some oilcanning that I've gotten out, too.



These low spots along the middle, which were barely noticeable compared to the rest of the issues are now a focal point.

So, my question is: are these low spots something that I could weld a stud in the center of and pull out with a dent puller?

I'm guessing they'd come up easily or is there something I am not considering?

Like I said, I'm a novice. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Try working out the high spots with a shrinking disc first.

 

I worked a lot out with heat since I didn't want to strip it.

 

You will need to get the lows up somehow. Personally I'd rather press them up with a spoon (bought or homemade) in the low spot while gently tapping the adjacent high ridge down. Remember, slow and steady wins the bodywork race.

 

I'd try a slapper on the edge of the dent. It takes some time to get the technique and you might want to place a dolly opposite side to act as a damper. The metal has a memory and it will work in your favor.
Alchemy has faster fingers, and yes, a slapper on the front and a spoon from the back is a good approach...you may have to make something. I made my slapper out of an old truck leaf spring and that might be material for a spoon too
Edit: You can pull with a weld stud, but if you over pull it you would be in worse shape than you are now

 

@winduptoy I hear you on the overpulling. I'm experienced enough, now, to know that it doesn't take much to get a dent out. If I can get those lows out (dark spots in the pic) this lid would actually need very little filler. It's really close compared to the mess it was.

I have one slapper but the shape vs the backside of the lid has me struggling.

I'll go look to see what modified spoons look and we'll go that route, first.

 

You might try shrinking them out using isolated heat (small spots at a time). Heat a small spot in a low area to just red then quench with a wet rag or sponge. It has worked for me.

 

or uncrimp the lid and pull the inner structure,the last momo cut my inner so i had to use magic to recreate the bottom curve..

 

Try and find a set of spoons like these to lift the lows and knock down the highs like other have said.

 

I literally just dreamed up versions of D1 and B6. I grabbed a leaf from a Model T spring. We'll try that once it's bent and cleaned up.

I'm a glutton for punishment but I'd rather mud the whole thing before I take that route. I have an hour and a half into working on it and it's 75% better.

If I can't get it closer with a spoon, a stud welder/puller has to be able to get me there... or a paintless dent removal guy has to have some trick tools.

 

Don’t make it harder than it is. A stud gun would easily pull those dents. No need to spend time making spoons and special tools. Also, never shrink a low spot with a torch, it will not come up, but work harden and lock it in. A cheap stud gun and 30 minutes and you’re done.

 

Thanks. It seemed easiest to me. I get where you need to be aware/careful.

I don't have a stud welder, tonight, so I can fab something up and see what's what.

 

Be careful with any kind of heat. If you try to weld a stud on with anything but a stud gun and puller you may take the low spot down even lower. YES YOU WILL PULL THE CENTER OF THE LOW UP BUT WILL STILL HAVE A CRATER AROUND THE EDGE. IF YOU CAN WORK THEM OUT WITH A SPOON YOU'LL BE AHEAD. SLOW AND STEADY AND A GOOD HAND. jmo. sorry for yelling. LIPPY

 

@lippy I'd use a stud gun, most likely a HF one.

From what I understand, it wouldn't be hard to drop a couple/few in, rather than one doing all the work. But we're talking about small lows, one would probably pop most out, I assume.

 

Brent, once again, sold stud guns for years and watch guys use and abuse them. But a few actually knew what they were doing. They would weld a stud into the low area and then would hammer lightly around the low spot, almost like you would when working off dolly if you know what I mean. Then they would cut the stud off with side cutters almost flush and then grind the nub off with the cutoff wheel, trying to minimize heat. There was this one guy who thought the studs were great, he used them like rebar to hold in the mud while he caved and paved!!!

 

If from the start you would have separated the inner from the outer panel it might have actually saved some time. You are getting close now so that would not be an option. Stud guns are the tits for pulling low areas. Pull on the stud while tapping around should bring you success. No shame in a thin skim coat of Bondo.

 

Nothing to add to what’s been said above, but I picked up the HF stud welder, last one on the shelf and it was set up for 120v, I wanted the 220 one. Anyways my kid worked a deal with a buddy of her boyfriend to do the paint and bodywork on her car.
The kid(I say kid, mid 20’s) plugged in my 100 foot extension cord, not a heavy duty one, probably 16 ga, maybe 14 ga , and used it with the stud welder.
The guy said it worked great and didn’t trip the 20 amp breaker.

 

"Cave and Pave"...now that was funny

 

Can I suggest getting the panel edges and gap dialed in before doing any additional dent work.
Along the top gap the driver side looks level then dips down about 1/3 of the way over as it moves across to the passenger side. Either take the driver side down and shim the whole panel up on the hinge mounting pads, or bring the low edge up. If you work the lows in the middle of the panel, then start moving the edges you may create more spots out in the middle of the panel.

Same with the sides, work your height / level with the quarters and decide how much to modify the quarters or deck lid to set the deck lid gap. Work on the edges may effect the middle of the panel.

 

This Thread brings all the tweaks together. Thanks for jogging a leaky memory.

 

I vote for spoon method. I made some for the same thing your working on. My deck lid was a rumble, welding up the hole created all kinds of problems. Homemade tool worked for me, good luck with it. Other than a shrinking disc, I’d stay away from heat.