Hi, I am looking for 7" long unpolished stainless tie rod tube with 5/8-18 thread, RH on one end, LH on the other. Looking on the web for about 45 minutes, I found some that are way longer and priced accordingly at Speedway, But nothing in this length range. Does anyone know of a source. For a salt car. Thanks, Joel
I'd be hoping that one of our chassis gurus makes up stainless tie rods and drag links and can make it for you.
I've shortened several tierods, bought a 5/5-18 tap and cut off the right hand thread end and rethreaded it. Might buy the shortest you can and cut it down.
I'm thinking that in the long run Jimmy six is correct and if it is for steering will the stainless pass tech? Stainless is nice but a lot of it isn't all that strong. Then again I can't figure out where you would use a 7 inch piece in steering so it may be for an adjustable piece elsewhere on the car.
Mr 48, it is rack and pinion steering. So it has short tie rods between each end of the rack and the steering arms
Most rack and pinions I have seen only have right hand threads. The outer end threads onto the inner end that screws into the rack and the inner end has a ball and socket that lets it turn.
Might give Ray at Roadster Supply a call. He said he would make me a custom length stainless tie rod and drag link whenever I got ready.
Whatever you do, totally ignore the guys trying to tell you not to use stainless for a tie rod or for any other steering components. I made a custom offset tie rod for my RPU and it turned out great. I ordered a Stainless tie rod longer than I needed from Speedway motors and then cut it down. It was advertised as being Stainless Steel 7/8”x .156 wall tubing. I just measured the extra piece that was cut off and it’s actually 7/8” x .1875 , that’s a full 3/16” wall thickness. That’s really stout stuff. If you can’t find anything I can make you a 7” piece threaded the way you need if you don’t mind waiting for a few weeks. Larry.
According to all the tables I've seen, 304 stainless is every bit as elastic as 3140 carbon and has a yield strength over 10,000 psi more than carbon. Shouldn't be a problem.
I use a product called Anchor Lube or Moly Dee on tapping stainless. 303 is the most prone to gall, 304 is less.
On racks I used to use 7/8" or 1" hex bar then drill and tap the ends. A couple wrenches, some jam nuts and bobs your uncle. My front end guy loved 'em.
$14.99 @ Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all11067 It's the other $85 for free shipping that gets you. I bought one to replace one that friend borrowed. Then he brought it back. It was every bit as good as the one my machinist father left me.