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Projects Belly Tank Build, NZ.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 26 T Ford RPU, May 3, 2021.

  1. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hows thing progressing...Tanks...:confused:...I mean Thanks...:D

    Gonna Run Whitewalls on it...just kidding...:p...hope your situation with the Airborne nasties over your way is pacifying...
     
  2. Hey Bud, the set up tires on the back are whitewalls, worn out from my 37 Willys. As for progress, its slowed a lot due to spring projects around the property but i'm planning more Belly Tank progress and i have bought my full SFI rated race suit so i can start finishing the drivers area and start the roll cage soon. Still finishing the fuel tank and i have bought some fiberglassing stuff to reinforce around where i will cut the axle openings. Updates soon. JW
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2021
    brEad, kadillackid, AndersF and 4 others like this.
  3. Except for welding the seams the tank is done, the mounts are tacked in place and it all fits like it should' Should hold 4-5 gls which is plenty. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  4. The fuel outlet can be seen here and there is plenty of room to get to the lines with the lower body in place. JW
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Made a special mount bracket to support the front of the chassis to give clear access to be able to offer the lower body up to the new chassis / body mounts. Lower body is bolted in place and masking tape where the axle reveals are going. Once they are cut out i will refit the axle and check my handy work and then make cardboard patterns in order to make 2mm alloy reinforcements to support the cutouts and fibre glass them in. More updates on this very soon. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  6. It was with great excitement to be finally cutting the axle reliefs. I set the lower body section on stands and started marking out, cut them out and felt very pleased. I had bolted the axles back on so i slid the body back under and lifted it up and put a couple of bolt in AND then i notices it wasn't that good...."well that't a fuckup''. Not all bad as i can still trim where it hits and i kept the bits i cut out so i can fix the gaps. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  7. The rear axle touches the back of the reveal. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  8. A while back i stated making a fancy gas pedal, always wanted to use one like this and now i made it i don't think i will use it as getting enough stoke for the master cylinder will be an pain so i started making some pendulum ones instead. The master cylinders has 1 1/4'' of travel so these will work better, the right hand one just won't look as interesting, will mock them up along with fixing my axle relief hack job. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. I made a pattern and had some pedals cast when I started my racecar

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  10. they look nice ! :cool: JW
     
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  11. Got my new helmet the other day so put all my gear on and had a play. Main reasons were to try my pedal locations and see where the top off the helmet was. It felt very good, compact but good. I will redo the pedals so they are longer and rotate the pads to be the same orientation as my feet. Once thats done i can start mounting them as well as the two master cylinders. JW[​IMG]
     
  12. I also removed the lower body and ''adjusted'' the axle and tie rod reveals so it now works, a bit more to do on those but thats OK for now. JW
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2021
  13. A bit fuzzy but shows the pedals and feet and as said i will rotate the pedal treads/pads to match the angle of my feet. JW
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That looks great...there's more room for pedals in there than I would have thought...The arched pads are a great idea too...
     
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  15. Its also rather comfortable to be in that position for a while although it was very hot in there. More soon! JW
     
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  16. Made the new pedals, MKIII model. Making the mounts now. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Thanks
     
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  18. Don't forget you need a return loop for the throttle
     
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  19. That will be made soon. JW
     
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  20. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,293

    loudbang
    Member

    I don't know if you need smooth or rough surfaces on them wearing your booties but found this in the local home builder type store. It's to go on stair edges so old folks don't slip on the stairs.

    It's rough but not aggressively so and has peel off sticky tape on the back side. :)

    20211109_215211.jpg
     
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  21. Thanks, i have thought of that and i have that at work (3M). I fit out vans so wheel chair bound folk can drive from their chairs. The pedals should be alright without it but i have the option. Cheers for that.:) JW
     
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  22. Bearing Burner
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,112

    Bearing Burner
    Member
    from W. MA

    We used nonslip stair tread on out lakester pedals
     
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  23. Got some more done on the pedals and master cylinders. Soon i will start the dash area and still sneaking up on the roll cage. :rolleyes: JW
    [​IMG]
     
    Stogy likes this.
  24. The other side. I have some friction shocks that i want to use but may not work now unless i have the whole unit outside the body, may just go with some small tube shocks instead....thinking time! JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  25. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 888

    AndersF
    Member

    Is there a reason you cant mount them on the firewall under the spring facing outwards?
     
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  26. Who the hell you callin' "old Folks"? Most of us on here are 'seasoned citizens', NOT old folks! Damned kids and hoodlums anyway!
     
    Dave G in Gansevoort and Stogy like this.

  27. It looks like there is more room in there than I would have guessed. To get a perspective... how tall are you?
     
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  28. 5' 8'', when seated i am as tall as a 6 footer. I can also straighten my legs between the pedals. JW
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2021
    loudbang and Stogy like this.
  29. I have't looked at that yet but a good point. I wanted them just above the top tube but i had to put gussets there when i needed to cut the chassis for spring clearance. I wanted just the arm sticking out and the top body over the drivers area will hinge at the nose, i don't wont a big gap in the body to clear the shock when lifted. I may just make a mount and have the whole of the shock outside the body. Will get some mock up pics posted tonight. JW
     
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  30. These are the shocks for it. I 'am trying for a vintage look as much as i can and really want to use them but not at the risk of it looking Fugly for the sake as using them. JW
    [​IMG]
     

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