Yes they did,a local junkyard has a 65 Fairlane that has a road draft tube. Its the first one I have seen and going to grab it the next time I am there just for a conversation piece. I have the PCV parts for on the intake but that road draft tube suprised me.
I find that interesting as the road draft had disappeared off even the Y-block by '64. Granted, living in the NW I suspect most cars here would have had final assembly in either LA or San Jose so would have been legal in California which did require them. I've never seen one, and have had my hands on many of them. I'd be very curious to know the casting number on any intake set up for one...
This road draft tube goes in the valve cover in place of a PCV,one would think by 65 it would have been gone since I have taken PCV parts off 63 of 64 Y blocks. I will have it a week from saturday since I getting parts off a car real close to it.
No moisture on the dip stick. If the antifreeze was leaking into the engine would i see more green in the color of the liquid? Liquid is clear.
Let's hear it for Debbie Downer! If at first you don't succeed, just give up! Seriously, man, don't panic, just drive it till it's good and hot and the moisture will go away. Oh, like everybody says, a PCV is your friend.
Maybe, maybe not. We see a lot of low level coolant leaks in diesel engines from EGR coolers, that last a long time, and the antifreeze at low levels will volatize off due to the heat of operation. But we can see coolant additives left behind in the oil, most common is sodium and potassium, but could also be moly, silicon or boron depending on the additive chemistry in the coolant.
Back in the late sixties I built a 289 for my 63 Fairlane, Cobra valve covers, Weiand intake, Comp whatever cam??, it always had condensation the dip stick, I'll bet I'd eliminated the PCV, something I didn't understand then.
Yes and No.... The SBF was designed for a PCV system and a Road Draft. Some did in 1962... Yes, most probably came with the PCV system. It surprises me too for a 1965. My first though is it has earlier 221 parts on it. That's not how the 62 221 road draft system worked. The inlet was the oil fill at the timing cover. The road draft tube exited out of the back of the intake, went to the rear of the passenger valve cover and straight down. It did not exit the valve cover. In 1964 the PCV system used a valve cover oil fill and inlet and a PCV that exits the valve cover and connects under the carburetor. The timing cover oil fill and PCV outlet/road draft was eliminated from the rear of the intake manifold. What you describe sounds like some kind of "farmer rig" with a mix of stuff. It could also be the air cleaner tube. The 1963 air cleaner had a long tube that connected to the snout. That goes over the passenger valve cover and straight down over the exhaust manifolds... 1962 Ford Fairlane Shop Manual.... Part 1-3 221 V8 Fig 2 Fig 11 Fig 15 Fig 22 Figure 22 shows the intake, Crankcase ventilation tube, Crankcase ventilation tube retainer, and the Crankcase ventilation tube oil separator element. 1963 shows no draft tube....the draft tube is not mentioned. In 63 the valve covers have no openings. Oil fill was through the timing cover tube. PCV was at the rear of the intake. 1964 shows oil fill valve covers and PCV tube from valve cover to the carburetor spacer. No road draft mentioned for 1964.
You still had air flowing though the crank case. With just one breather or cap and no way to draw air out he doesn't have any crankcase ventilation at all. Yep and most likely with that engine you didn't put a lot of miles on it at one time either. Air didn't flow though the crank case on those though, it just let pressure out. Drive an engine with just two breathers on the street for serious miles and you almost always have oil blow out the breathers. At least that was my personal experience. If you are over 60 and your dad who wasn't a real car guy helped you pick out your first car it almost always was that nice looking car that was just driven around town by an older person and your dad thought it was in such fantastic shape because it had never been driven out of town. That was over a similar car that had more miles but had been driven on a 15 or 20 one way commute for most of it's life. The engine never got warmed up and condensation built up and formed sludge in the one that never left town. I've pulled some of those engines down that had had regular oil changes but had sludge on top so thick that you couldn't see the valve train when you pulled the valve covers and had an inch of sludge in the pan. Invariably the kid who ended up with the car changed oil to a high detergent oil the day he got the car and then got out and drove it a distance and drove it a lot faster than it ever had been before. One when I was in high school auto shop and then ended up rebuilding the engine in class had the oil screen plugged solid with sludge. The kid's dad was having a fit about his "hot rodding" the car and still never quite understood what we were saying and why when we showed him the plugged oil screen, five pounds of sludge in the pan and the rockers covered with sludge. Probably the worst thing you can do with a hot rod or enthusiast car is go out in the cold months and fire it up and run it for five minutes in the driveway without ever getting the engine up to operating temp and then stick it back in the garage. The engine will just get warm enough to draw in cold air when it cools off.
I have seen this before on drag cars that don't run long. The valve covers where foaming white between rounds. A lot of racing on cool nights made it worse. Condensation from forced cool downs was the cause. Plenty of valve cover breathers on both ends helped some. The solution if I recall was the oil we were using. Went to a different type and it stopped for the most part. Just always wiped the inside before putting back on.
I think this is the answer, especially when I read- "only around the block a few times to work out any bugs"
For me that would be good, I like to see a motor around 195-200 . But everybody has their own take on that.
I’m pretty old, but was only 11 in 1962. I do remember reading the the new fangled emissions centrol systems (pcv) were mandated in California by then, and were therefore an option on the new 221 sbf engine in the new Fairlane. The system was made standard the next year. there were issues with those early sbf systems, though. Something about a screen sludging up. The system was redesigned by 64 to eliminate the engine screen. this was info from contemporary magazine articles, although I have seen early 260 engines with sludging and plugged pcv systems.
Engine temperature is kind of deceptive in terms of condensation & sludge. What we're concerned about there is Oil temperature, because the only way to get an engine truly "warmed up" to normal operating temperature is to put it under a load, by driving it. Even that takes a little while. Starting up a collector car or infrequently driven car once a month in the off season for example, simply idling under no load for a half hour or so to get them warmed up probably does more harm than good, as far as oil contamination goes.
And that's what bothers me. It seems to me that the amount of moisture in the valve cover would require multiple short trips with never getting the engine up to temperature, not just "around the block a few times". Maybe he made more short trips than I'm imagining.
You know temperature does play a big role in crankcase condensation. My race car engines had a pretty poor crankcase ventilation system, only one breather and a "puke" can. However, once started the engine were always brought up to full temperature and run at full throttle. I checked the valve clearance weekly and never saw a hint of condensation. It could be that the alcohol fuel carried off some condensation also.
I have seen these from time to time many years ago. Part of the regular service included removing the tube from the intake manifold and there was a metal "filter" in the manifold which consisted of a mesh that had to be cleaned out. Usually was full of crusty dirt and oil mix and was always way past it's expiration date. Big block Fords had a similar setup as well.
Has to be a '62-63, Ford had converted to the valve covers by '64 on the SBF. The FE kept the intake location for one more year, it switched in '65, except for the HiPo motors as Ford didn't update the intake manifolds on those.
Don’t know. It’s in a 49 merc parts car Has a generator and oil fill breather tube in the timing cover
This is a car that i have been building for the last four years. The engine was finished about three years ago and this is the first time i drove it. I am still finishing the car and its not ready to go an a long drive yet.
When i install the PCV valve where do i run the hose to? There is no port at the carburetor or the air cleaner. Do i just run the hose and dump end so it exits under the engine to the pavement? If i don't connect a hose to the PCV valve can any oil droplets spit out of the PCV valve?
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