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Hot Rods A New England Channeled Roadster

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 51box, Aug 28, 2020.

  1. ^^^^same observation as Wizzard. On my 31 roadster I found I had to lean forward to see past the side curtain. I would consider his suggestion.
     
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  2. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    I agree it’s not ideal to have a blind spot like that and I actually started with the tape further back but just didn’t like the profile it was giving.
    I’ll try a couple different mock up shapes and let it marinate before upholstering it for sure.
     
  3. 100% Matt
    Joined: Aug 7, 2006
    Posts: 2,747

    100% Matt
    Member

    Really digging this build!
     
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  4. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    Thanks man it’s been a lot of fun so far, can’t wait to blow it apart for paint this winter.

     
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  5. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    The @Angry Frenchman hooked me up with this nice old swan shifter. The bottom was bent and twisted so it was the perfect candidate to cut up and fit to this car. 8953FA13-DB30-47BD-86B0-E11EEA7E45DC.jpeg
     
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  6. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,216

    AHotRod
    Member

    Man, your roadster looks Spot-On !

    Reminds me of this
    Summer0f58.jpg
     
  7. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    Nothing too exciting for updates the last month, pulled the body off a little while back and got the floors all welded and finished up.
    Before it came off the gas tank was mounted and made a through the body fill neck using a early style cap. 4F0AB96D-5774-442C-8496-570B3C04079D.jpeg


    I really like the PC680 battery that’s in my coupe so I decided to use one on this car but mount it under the floor. Made up this simple mount that can be unbolted and dropped if I need to change the battery.
    CCD220AE-14BC-4B3B-A269-201F71F5AD0D.jpeg

    47 wishbone split with flipped 32-4 axle yokes and some tie rod tube ends, a little funky but works well for what I needed.
    4A2BF26C-B975-4CD0-A19E-38C4F7A75688.jpeg

    With the bones mounted, the steering hoop got some heat and a drop to reduce the drag link angle.
    5E1EDAAC-99F2-4162-AE01-4A85DDB6B63D.jpeg

    The pitman arm is shortened 1” and the drag link is F100 spliced into what I think is a 40’s Ford adjuster.
    822BF654-2905-41F5-AF6D-B063096DCC34.jpeg

    Long ways to go but making progress.
     
  8. rod1
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,324

    rod1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Love everything about it.
     
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  9. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,349

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Nice to see the update! But sorry to say your neat under-frame battery mount is the first feature I find too cool for it's own good. I had a hidden battery box once, but never again.
     
  10. Remote charging posts can make it a lot more practical.
     
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  11. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Believe I used the relay/starter post & a ground on my SBC's
     
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  12. slick front end
     
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  13. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    Thanks guys, yes it will have remote charging posts and a latching relay for a battery shut off.

    Next up was modifying some F1 mounts to get the shocks located. They are cut up quite a bit but the picture tells it best.
    There’s a 3/16” doubler plate with threaded bungs welded in that the mounts bolt to.

    CAB58880-4F99-4B25-8459-3FF4D59B8DB1.jpeg

    You can also see the steering stabilizer is mounted. It just uses a tie Rod clamp on one end and two small tabs to mount to the wishbone.


    F1BD8B80-75C8-45D8-A41F-294622897F45.jpeg
     
  14. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,349

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Anything new?
     
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  15. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    neilswheels
    Member
    from England

    [​IMG]
    Great build, dont know how I missed it before. Love this battery idea, curios as to how the one youre allready running is doing? Looks really small, and a race battery , how does that work for a street car, lights, radio etc. This would sort out my battery location issue if its up to being used in a driver. Thanks
     
  16. Curious about that 680 as well since I am on the hunt for a battery for my Olds powered 31. Rated at 170CCA's seems a bit light to me.
     
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  17. While we are talking about the battery; will you be able to remove the battery hold down bracket when the body is sitting on the frame? And wiggle the battery out of the tray?
    Just thought I should ask before the body goes on.
    Love the build.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2021
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  18. Looks to me like remove all 4 bolts and drop the total unit down, then remove the tray.
     
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  19. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    From the hunting around I did before, the PC 680 is the same battery that comes in “booster packs” . I let the car sit all last winter without a charger and it started right up. It works great in my coupe and will crank the 425 nailhead no problem.
     
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  20. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    I made it so you just take the 4 bolts out of the chassis and lower the whole assembly straight down to get the battery out.
    Thank you I really like the way it’s turning out.
     
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  21. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    Most of what’s been going on is small jobs to get everything finished up before blowing apart for paint. Cut up a stock throttle pedal to work around what’s been done. You can see where the mount use to be I cut it out and moved it over a few inches.

    Also formed some pockets in the tunnel because my foot didn’t fit between the brake pedal and tunnel very well. 2535538A-4478-4A11-A114-2B8B7D9CA30B.jpeg

    Put it all back together after doing brake lines and some small things with the body off.


    EBA3A39D-37E0-4E8A-A1A5-E80B1D85B129.png

    Next up is fitting a wood tack strip and trying my hand at building a roadster top.

    Here is the paint color it’s supposed to be 1954 corvette pennant blue but it’s a little off. Just so happens to match the upholstery pretty dang close so I’m going to use it. 25AFBEF6-9CB8-4C02-B93B-860E40B70122.jpeg
     
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  22. I may have to try the 680 then as space is limited in my 31. Like your color choice. Will your top be black or white??
     
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  23. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    @vtwhead The top material is called Stayfast Oyster , it’s kind of an off white color. I haven’t done a great job posting details of the work for this build but I do plan to post up the top process step by step. We’ll see how it goes
     
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  24. The top will really set off that roadster. Good choices for sure. Can't wait to see it come together.
     
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  25. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,783

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Very cool build !
    How much has the frame been narrowed?
    Micky
     
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  26. choppedrod63
    Joined: Oct 14, 2005
    Posts: 88

    choppedrod63
    Member

    I love that color!
     
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  27. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    FIrst up was to fit this wood tack strip sold by brookville. It takes a lot of slow sanding and fitting to get it to match the body. 14C2DA7E-5E7D-471B-9581-1A0E7B52F137.jpeg

    After that is bolted down the “lift the dot” studs are installed. They sell them both in machine screw and wood screw. Rear window panel was fit up first. C30F6732-C42D-45B7-A0E5-71010D0A7A62.jpeg

    I decided to sew on some padded ends to help keep the top from sinking in when it’s stretched. EC0CFF18-1032-4C70-86F1-C27E7931BBFE.jpeg
    At this point I decided the rear bow needed to come forward another inch. Had to remove what had been done and cut up the top irons to do it.
    48A3DCE4-05F1-4BDF-AC95-98AFBFC06515.jpeg

    Once I was happy with the bow, the rear panel was stapled in and started to lay up the sides. I wasted 2 pieces doing this. All I can say is leave it way over size and stretch every way possible to get it tight before cutting the window shape in.

    9BF9A0C9-F896-41A2-B814-56EAD9C0319B.jpeg

    Once I was happy with those the top piece was laid with a couple staples and match marked all my seams and cut lines.

    D4824F2A-6279-41C0-886D-60A95355783E.png

    Here I have the edging sewn on and the sides sewn to the rear over window panel.
    E5FED00D-A666-41C9-A7A5-00C5783538B3.jpeg

    That’s about where it stands, need to sew the top piece on and set the fasteners in the material next.
     
  28. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    Thank you, I’m not sure exactly how much it’s narrowed. Just made it so the cowl and inner wheel wells could drop over the frame with some wiggle room.
     
  29. Wicked nice job on the top! Takes a lot of patience and planning which you are very good at.
     
  30. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,216

    AHotRod
    Member

    attention to details, very well done.
     
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