Projects '60 F100 Daily Driver Project.

Great job across the board. Chrome steelies and a drop for sure. Keep it up!

Tell the youngster to lighten up. I borrowed my brothers '63 F100 to go snag a 351W in the foothills. Bro had swapped out the tired 352 for a 460 and the F100's stock 2 spider 9" gave up the ghost on the way back. No broken traction either. The 2 spider just is very weak. So, that was the first (of now many) 9" diff I got the pleasure to build. Even if you babied the 351W the diff would've given up the ghost.

 

Okay, guys.

Since my last update, I got a wild hair up my arse, and did something drastic.

I was talking to another HAMBer in my PMs and told him I was "out in the shop, doing something stupid that I would either regret or post in this thread.". Well... we're posting cuz, for a throw-together, it turned out pretty good, I think.

Even though, the truck desperately needs body work and paint, that's going to be a WAYS off, especially since the bank account sucking kitchen remodel. But, I figure, until then, I'm just gonna throw a little caution to the wind and just have fun with the truck RIGHT NOW.

I do have the funds to lower this beastie, but I'm gonna be saving for the wheels and tires (unless I find a unicorn that wants to swap me 15", 5 1/2 bolt pattern chrome wheels {with the right offset} for my slots.) because I HATE putting things on credit cards. And, I can't lower it with the current wheel and tire arrangement because the rears are even with the bed-side fender well and won't clear.

But all of that aside, I went ahead with the plan to put scallops on the truck in preparations to complete the look I'm going for, and since I'm going to eventually paint the truck anyway, they'll sand away and I can do them right. So, with just a little ado, I present for your consideration, this. (please overlook how filthy the truck is right now. She's getting a wash and a pat on the ass later today).











All-in-all, not too bad I think. I ended up making front scallops a tad smaller because when everything was taped up, it felt "heavy" and produced a weird optical illusion that ran the uphill.

They still need a buff and polish. The colors play well with the red. I have a renewed relationship with One-Shot and my old sword striper (I cheated and taped up the surrounding Ivory pinstripe, so don't think for a second I can freehand a straight line ). To my surprise, it doesn't look hateful with the slots and stance. I can cope for a while.

 

That’s definitely a great look.

 

Fabulous!!!! Great Job!

A great demonstration of the 'less is more' theory!

 

Looks great!

 

Thanks guys!!!

After careful review, one thing is certain. THOSE BED RAILS HAVE TO GO!

Maybe a nice tonneau setting flush with the bedsides or something?

 

Oh, and cheating on the outline stripe is exactly how I did that for years. I couldn’t make a straight line (or trace flames) with a brush, but sure could make a nice line with fine-line tape and spraying it.

 

If you decide to go with a Tonneau cover, I would recommend this offering from "Real Truck." This is the installation on my 1964 F100 short bed; my motivation is security of tools, etc on overnight travel while pulling my 37 Ford to the tracks. It is pricey, but piece of mind is worth it.

 

You nailed it! Congrats!

 

Looks good.

 

I am liking what you have done with your truck very much! I have been searching for a look for my 59, I have had it for 34 years and never painted it, just left it as is. For several years life got in the way, our house flooded (twice) job, kid, heart issues, yeah like everybody else things got in the way. Mechanically I kept it running and driving but a few years ago the word "patina" came to be and people told me I would be crazy to paint it. Your truck has convinced me to paint it, screw what everyone else thinks! Thank you for posting your build and do what makes you happy no matter what the opinions of others are. Not too many years ago scallops were out and you would have been removing them, now everyone digs them! One of my favorite 1960 F100's is the most famous one out there, the Mooneyes dragster push truck. Was going to do a tribute truck but...... things could change!

 

Patina. There is a place for it. An un-restored original classic that has a few lumps and bumps with nicks and scratches but still shines up nice. This rage and faketina is oversold. They are only "original" once.

 

It looks great. Personally I would run it as is. These are hard to lower and get to drive well. You need to be careful because if you go through all the work and expense of lowering it (including new wheels) while you might like the appearance, you might not like the way the truck feels and drives going down the road.
Plus it would then be just another overly slammed truck. One of many.
Right now you have a really neat old truck, that drives great and looks great rocking those slots.
Mart.

 

I'm with you on a nice tonneau cover. Any thoughts on finding/buying vs building one? Hard or soft? The one Flin showed above was nice, but a bit too industrial for my build theme (if I have one).

 

Where I live there is a boat place that does boat tops and seats, they do tonneau covers as well. May be a source to investigate where you are.

 

Well, as far as the bed cover... back in my **cough** "Mini Truck" days (yeah, I'm one of THOSE guys)
I must have built about 10 or so of the damned things for my club buddies and myself. Some heavy and unmoving, some light weight with bows and buttons, some with frames and stretched vinyl, some hinged in the middle with lift support cylinders... etc.

I think I'm gonna try to dissect how they built them back in the day, and add my insanity to the mix, just for the correct aesthetic.

Y'know, gather the stuff that was available to your average joe building a custom in the early 60's.

I mean, I'm NOT going as far as having pleated and padded, sparkly naugahyde or anything. Just something subtle, you know?



Hahaha, I just had a thought of building one like a Carson top with chicken wire and the whole nine yards, but just make it a flush fit bed cover that looks like it has bows. Hmmm. Actually... thats not an altogether bad idea. I'll need access to an upholstery grade sewing machine, but VERY doable.

Anyway, here's a bit of an update:

I popped the cherry and started doing body work. Starting from the top and working down. I've spent the last several days trying to get the roof squared (and rounded lol) away.

Wasn't too hateful, and I was shocked to find very few rust holes above the drip rail just a bunch of popped bondo and surface stuff.

I really hate that didn't take any pics of this, but... it was a long, hot day and I was tired. What you can't see is that I yanked the headliner and walked my welder around the pinholes and screw holes from cab lights I found then ground, hammered 'em, and smeared 'em with Evercoat Metal Glaze and blocked everything. Turned out pretty good. It's at least a very good starting point for the serious bodywork that is well down the road.







The real bitch was grinding out the old bondo that filled all the dents in the back. Despite my boardinghouse reach, I can't really get a dolly in the middle of the roof skin by myself, but I made due.

You know the drill... hammer, hammer, hammer some more, then just when you think you're done hammerin' you go right back to hammerin'. Hours! And like basic training, I'm glad I don't ever have to do it again. Perfect? No, but passes muster for a driver and WAY better than it was.



Today, I'm going to be walking around the drip rail to straighten them up on the outside edge, then scuff it and see about spraying basecoat. It's a bit warm to paint in the shop right now.

Took one of the door hinge covers into the paint shop. He didn't even have to break out the spectrophotometer, as it chip matched to Mitsubishi Monaco Red. He mixed it up and put a drop of it on the hinge cover and once it flashed down, it kinda disappeared. Looks like a real good match. We'll see when I lay clear over it. I found red primer under to the old basecoat and that's what I'll be using then spraying over.



Here's hopin'. I already need a beer.

--Cheers

 

As if I needed even more reasons to follow this thread...

Great work as usual my friend!

 

What red primer are you using?

 

I don't know why the 57 to 60 pickups always had dents in the roof of the cabs. I bought my truck from a roofer who had lost a rear axle/bearing on the freeway and had it towed to his house. Bought it cheap and went to a wrecking yard and got an axle and backing plate, installed it in his driveway and drove it home. There was still a lot of roofing trash in the bed I had to deal with, he was pissed because he thought it would need a complete axle assembly and was surprised it was such a quick fix. I guess they all got used hard and put away wet! Have a couple golfball sized dents in weird places on my 59, somewhat hard to get to as you commented.

 

Hahaha. Funny you should mention that because THAT's part of the title to tonights update.

Tonights Episode: The Ass that Primes
​

Well, here we go.
Normally and historically, I have had the best of luck using quality rattle can primers for small jobs.
Let the solvents cook out, wet sand and go. Rustoluem filler, and sandable primer have always been good to me under acrylic enamel, urethane, base-coat/clear urethanes, you name it. No problem.



Now, if I'm painting the whole damned car, that's different. I use epoxy primers and quality sealers I get from the paint shop.

But, check this shit out.

I should change my avatar to a Jackass because dumbshit here didn't pay attention to TWO things.

1. I grabbed the wrong primer and used Rustoleum "Profesional" Red Primer thinking it was sandable primer. I didn't even realize it. I couldn't smell the difference because I was actually wearing a respirator this time.

I sure as hell realized it when I went to sand it. Jesus. . I was like "WTF?!?" and then I found the can on the bench and my stomach sank. I laid it down like I would filler primer and those thick coats never fully dried. After 3 days, you could still dent it with your thumbnail.

2. I should have known better than to think I could cheat my way past the underlying clear lifting. After all the paint is like 13 years old or something. I figured it was established enough to not lift on the sanded edge, but low and behold, EVERY single place where the clear had been sanded through lifted (albeit slightly). Probably because of all that solvent in those thick ass layers of primer I laid down, penetrating and reactivating the old clear. . Glad I found it now and not two coats into the clear!

So THAT brings us up to this evening. Current status:



That's right, gang. I sanded it all the way down to the ground coat and a little beyond in some spots.

I got rid of anything that could potentially lift on me, but, now I have to go back and redo the glazing putty and fine tune everything. This time, since I've had to go this far, I'm going to filler prime it then bite the bullet and go to the paint shop for a quart of good primer/sealer. I'll report back after I buy it.

The one NEAT thing that came from this is there were exactly TWO coats of paint on the roof of this truck. The red and below that what appears to be U.S. Forestry Service green. And below that is primer and metal. I have no real history on this truck, but I'm wondering if the cab, at least, belonged to a government vehicle at one time? I dunno, kinda cool.

So... the last few days have been completely wasted just because I was overconfident and just down right didn't pay attention in the first place.

Lesson learned. Shit happens, but damn. I was really hoping to have the basecoat down today.

Long story short... don't be like me.

 

Damn it man, that's a swift kick to the tender bits! As much as it sucks, you now know what will be under the paint on the roof...

Keep at it!

 

No real update so far today, but I finally got the top massaged out and under gray primer.

Had to break away to put a new window lift motor in my son's OT Silverado. Chevy doesn't put a round edge on anything!

 

My wife's OT Ford Exploder almost bled me out while working under the dash... Every piece of stamped metal left with razor sharp flashing on it! I didn't realize I was bleeding until the wrench slipped out of my hand. I hated that damn vehicle and it's the reason I'll not be owning any Ford newer than my '60!

 

Live Update:

Currently waiting for the base coat to dry.

'Finally got everything massaged out sanded then scuffed.



Then, base coat time. Two lights coats then I laid it nice and thick on the color coat, and here's where we are currently:



That dark area is a shadow from my garage door opener which, as you can see is a little close for comfort but I'm working around it. All things considered, it's not too bad coming from my old purple Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Didn't end up too much dirt which is surprising given my work area. I can work with this.

Now I'm gonna clear it so all of my sins come to the surface.

Fingers crossed.

 

Well, gang. We're under clear. Here's the clear I used.




No surprise, I got some orange peel because it warmed up a little in the shop this afternoon, but it's nothing I can't wet sand out. Overall, not bad for painting it in my shop with my old Craftsman compressor, and that junk purple gun.

 

Heil yeah!

 

Looking good!

 

Love it!

 

It just keeps on getting better and better!

 

Weekend Update (Jane, you ignorant slut!):

Okay, I need to preface this with an explanation as I owe Nostalgia Sid an apology.

I've been talking to Sid, of-and-on, for a while about lowering this beastie. He is SUPER COOL and full of more information than I'll ever possess.
He has a pretty long waiting list because Sid is good at what he does. Having talked to Sid, I would have had to pay shipping twice and wait a month or so to have my axle stretched. I sincerely feel shitty for stringing Sid along for so long on this axle.

-BUT-

I just came off of a COMPLETE kitchen remodel AND it's the holidays and the accounts are setting at about "a quarter tank". On top of that, since my shop is small and I have other projects outside this hobby, I can't have the truck on stands and unmovable for a month, maybe two. So, and don't hate me, I chose to go with an aftermarket axle from a shop about 50 miles from me, up in Ontario CA.

And, Sid, if you're watching... I'm sorry. . I give you permission to stomp on my big toe if we're ever face-to-face.

I did, however buy the rear spring mounts from Sid and they are nice! And, I got them in 3 days. Thumbs up!



Some of the reasons I went the "aftermarket axle" route:

• It was half the cost when you factor in freight.
• Free shipping.
• I got it in two days. (I'm not very patient sometimes... okay, ALWAYS)
• The place it right up the road so, If I need to bust heads over this thing, I can still be mad when I get there, rather than having a flight in the middle to calm me down. (Just kidding)
• Camber is changed from stock specs and is designed for use with radial tires.
• It has a 2 year warranty.
• Less downtime in the shop.

Now, since I have my old axle out, in the future, I WILL be sending it to Sid for a stretch just because I eventually (when more funds are available) want this done the right way.

So, with the "much ado" portion of the post out of the way, lets see some carnage!

The new axle:



Painted:





The teardown:









I like to keep stuff in piles in the order and placement they had before: Those shocks work, the rubbers are dry rotted, I'm gonna change them out.



Hover Truck! Forget lowering it, "where we're going, we don't need roads!" Just need to make a quick stop at the clock tower for some gigawatts.



These are my tie rod drops. One caveat, if you buy this style, is to pay close attention to the threaded bit, as it was a different size and thread than the 1/2"- 20 bolts included in the kit. I had to run to the local Hardware store because I didn't have the 29/64ths drill bit and the 1/2-20 tap. No worries, got 'er done. Harkening back to my Harley days, I used blue loctite on the bolts for added security from them backing out.



I had to modify a 3/4 wrench to fit inside the tie rod drops in order to tighten the castle nut. There is a hole on the opposite side of the tie rod drop so you can install the cotter pin.

The install pics get spotty from here on out because it was getting late and I just wanted to get it back down on the ground so I can flip it around in my tiny shop to do all of the work I have to do to the rear.

Just know that the axle kinda just flopped itself into the hole. No problems at all. Overall a VERY NICE axle and I'm impressed with the build quality. The welds are nice and it's stout.



The kingpins installed without any hitches (I was worried I'd have to hone the kingpin bosses on the axle but, no.). They fit just like the factory axle.

And... she's "nose down"!





The ONLY problem I have is I have to adjust the tie rods and do a down and dirty "shop alignment" to get it ready to have it properly aligned.

She's the opposite of pigeon toed right now. The stock axle is 53 1/2" kingpin to kingpin. whereas the replacement axle is 53 3/4" kingpin to kingpin. Making the whole steering arm shorter than it has to be.

I've got a new tie rod coming for the passenger side because the boot was toast and honestly... it looks like it hasn't been changed since they were installed on the assembly line ,62 years ago.

So, once I get the tie rod (probably Monday) I'll be straightening the steering out.

Before and after shot:




That's it for today. I'll post up the progress on the rear as it happens.

Edit: Imgur is doing that thing again where it's deciding what pics it wants to show. The pics show up in the thread on my Android but not my desktop. Go figure. It happens from time to time, and usually works itself out.