Has anyone on here had any experience with MRO 4 in 1 aerosol paint? A friend of mine just painted a car with it and it turned out very nice. Several years ago I painted my deuce pu with Krylon and it turned out good but their formula has changed. I am looking to do a cheap paint job on a deuce roadster I'm going to build next year. I wanting kind of a rough look. Don't want a shiny $20.000 paint job.
Krylon has changed their formula for satin black so it runs easier, drys slower also doesn't cover as well. This MRO paint has been around for a long time and my friend says it works great.
I think this is what krylon32 is talking about: http://www.seymourpaint.com/product/mro-industrial-enamel/ Gary, sounds like you need to order a can of primer and a can of finish coat. Maybe test on inside of hood or trunk and share your results.
Man, this is a new one on me, I had to go look it up and read about it. They have a really nice color selection, perfect for old Hot Rods .... having higher solids makes it worth it alone. I haven't found where any of the local / normal stores are selling it, seem's to be on-line ordering.... let me know if you find it elsewhere. Looks like Hot Rod Paint to me !!!
It looks like it is available from manufacturer website above as well as Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/s?k=MRO®+INDUSTRIAL+ENAMEL
Buy a cheap spray gun and use real auto paint. It will turn out much better than spray cans of paint.
Agree. Even the $100 auto paint kit is a far better performer than rattle can. If youre looking for real budget, harbor freight purple gun, tractor enamel, acetone, and valspar hardener is a far better finish than rattle can. I prefer valspar tractor enamel to rustoleum. MRO 4-1 IS $10 per 16 oz can. You're not gonna save anything over a $100 paint kit and a gun.
I'm convinced, I'm throwing my compressor, paint filters, paint gun and my booth away. I've been wasting all my money and time all these years. Lippy
Industrial PPG oil based. I added the hardener and cut and buffed it a couple weeks later on a test panel. Looked good, hold out?.....who knows. I sometimes relieve my paint store of unwanted, mismatched paint. Super cheap. Then there’s rustoleum by the gallon. the spray cans are good for when ya don’t have access to equipment but not as cost effective if ya do
@BJR , @indyjps , @anthony myrick Have any of you naysayers tried either of the featured Seymour MRO or the Rustoleum products prior to forming your opinions? Your conclusions may be correct, but actually trying these for a small job seems reasonable. $10 for a can to test is not an expensive trial. Ray
Not a nay sayer. The thread was for cheap. I can beat the spray can price per OZ of the $10 can Labor savings? Well no. More colors, yes.
There is no spray can that can keep a wet edge on something as big as a car. A gun painted car will always look better than a spray can job just because of this one fault. But there are more.
To be clear, I have never tried to paint an entire car with spray cans and readily understand your point above. But (there is always a ‘but’), the two main points of the discussion are in response to the OP’s stated desire for both an inexpensive suitable material and a ‘rough’ look to convey an image. Considering those criteria, it seems simplified methods may be in order. The introduction of better targeted paint products (hi-performance commercial grade materials) in a ‘simple’ delivery format seems a reasonable thing to consider to meet the stated goals. My post was in response to the chorus of ‘no way that will work’ without any reports of having tried the improved products and/or seeming to have not taken into account the OP’s stated desired outcome. One last observation. The specific characteristic of common aerosol paints you cite is by design to meet the expectations/demands of the typical application…..’fast drying’. That is achieved through paint formulation, not by delivery method. For example, for the decades I have used them for shop equipment and chassis parts, Rustoleum products typically have been slow drying on a par with gun applied enamels. Unfortunately it seems Gov’t mandates have required changes to many coating products that have not served the user’s interests. Ray
I see it's made by Seymour. I have used their Cast Blast many times. If it's as good as that, I would have no problem using it. Gene.
To answerer your question. We used quite a bit of it in our maintenance dept. It had a high pigment content. I thought this was a very good paint from a bomb.
If I wanted cheap I would paint it with Rustoleum and a brush. It actually flows out nice. Paint it leave it for a day or two. It does not gas out quickly so no wax for a while. It will have a dull sheen or it should.
You obviously haven’t watched any videos on Rustoleum Turbo Paint. I haven’t tried it, but it seems like you might be surprised! Keeping a wet edge looks like it might actually be possible with the Turbo stuff.
I have not tried MRO. Every rattle can I use I'm always disappointed and think to myself. I shoulda just used a spray gun. I have had the paint store mix multiple spray cans of real automotive paint, enamel and laquer. It's OK. But not being able to add hardener significantly impacts the paint performance. The narrow spray pattern of a rattle can't match a spray gun. Inability to control temp range and flow out means you gotta lay piss thin coats and stripe the panel. If you wanna paint a whole car with it, feel free, get ready to wait a long time for it to cure and still be a soft finish, every pebble that bounces near that car will take paint with it. Cut and buff - better wait til spring. Your cost for a full car on rattle cans will outweigh using a much better performing paint. Single stage enamel "with hardener" is a very durable paint and very reasonable cost. But we're here for you man. We'll help you use a gun if you want to learn. If you wanna do some tests on MRO, I'll read along. I don't mind being proven wrong.
@indyjps Your reply seems intended for me, a misappropriation I can understand since I inserted myself into the conversation started by @krylon32 and the responses by you 3 Musketeers dissing aerosols. I am not preparing to paint a car by any process. My primary belief is that details matter and the old saying, “generalizations aren’t worth a damn, including this one”, has some merit. My replies were intended to be a closer examination of how the claims of poor performance of MRO or Rustoleum new-age aerosol products stood up when measured against the stated goals of @krylon32. His goals are different than a builder going for upscale paint and finish. It just seemed to me that the opinions I took issue with do have merit, but maybe not so much when applied to the specific goals of the OP. Ray