Projects First flathead project...

Changed the oil and went on a short ride to a Saturday morning "cars and coffee" 3 miles from the house. Filled up with 9 gallons of fresh gas on the way. Met some good knowledgeable folks and got a couple of good tips. Car is still a pain to drive. The throttle linkage has so much slop in it, it's like a 3 piece progressive linkage. Press the accelerator a little bit to take out the slack, press it a little bit more to open the throttle plates, press it a little bit more to engage the accelerator pump and then it takes off like I stabbed the accelerator. Probably be able to get some parts to tighten up all the loose links and make it drive like the single carburetor car it is. Column shifter is really stiff. It has a grease zerk and I tried a couple of times to get some grease in it but failed. After a little bit of internet searching, found out that if you twist the grease gun fitting counter-clockwise it clamps on the fitting. Who knew. Been using a grease gun for 40 years and never heard that before.

Received a set of 1941 California plates in the mail over the weekend. Totally unnecessary but fun to have; won't say how much they cost. Taking them to the DMV later in the week to have them approved and assigned to the car.

The really bad news is the clutch is slipping, a lot. Thought is would be easy to simply adjust. No dice. It already has 1-1/2" of free play in the pedal. Thought, well, I'll just have to replace the clutch. Did that before on my 1960's Chevy. It's different on an older car with a torque tube. Looked that up, much worse than I thought. Disconnect the rear suspension, disconnect the rear brakes, disconnect the torque tube, and pull the rear end back a foot. Remove the front seat, remove the floor covering, remove the floor boards, unbolt the transmission and remove it from the car through the passenger compartment. Then you're ready to start on the clutch. Thought maintenance on this car was pretty simple until I got to this.

Even more interesting will be learning why the clutch is slipping. There are several indicators that it only has about 4500 miles on it. Owned lots of cars with manual transmissions and never wore out a clutch, even with greater than 100,000 miles. Didn't see this clutch issue coming at all. Hopefully the rear main seal is ok. There's very little observable oil leakage, right in line with the tightest of every other old car I've owned. Another internet search turned up quite a few complaints about cheap Chinese clutches. Hope it's that simple, wish it it was even simpler. Very tempted to find a competent garage and pay to have this done.

 

Up until now, a lot of people on the forums were recommending a place called "Fort Wayne Clutch" as a source for quality clutch assemblies. I took their advice about 4 years ago and bought a disc and pressure plate for my ''51 Ford from them and received quality US made parts that I am very satisfied with. A month or so ago, I was cleaning my shop and found the disc and pressure plate I had removed from the car. It was in good shape and original to the car (I replaced it during an engine change). Anyhoo, there was a Return Authorization form and even a UPS label in the box, so I decided I would return it for the $25 deposit since the return was prepaid. I called the number on the return form to tell them it was coming. I was informed that they didn't want it as they were no longer rebuilding clutches, only supplying new units. This aroused my curiosity, and I asked him where they were able to get new components these days.

He answered, and this is a direct quote : "Oh, some guy named 'Wong Fu'."

Bottom line? Be very careful where you get your clutch assemblies these days. It seems even some of the old reputable sources are no longer what they once were.

 

Well, that's a genuine disappointment.

 

I sure don't know why these don't get the love of earlier cars. IMO we hadn't lost our sense of style yet.
Getting a pretty car is one thing but getting one sorted correctly is quite another. Looks like you are on your way to the sorting out part. Good job!
... and great looking car!
D

 

My Pontiac was a turd to drive when I got it.
Tinkered and worked at it, now it's actually pretty good with much less room for improvement.

Get the main gripes out the way (the ones that make you dislike driving the car in traffic, as you'd said) and it'll be less of a chore to drive each time you take it out.

Rod throttle linkages need to be set up right- sounds like you've got one of the lever arms over-center. Find the adjustment method in the manual, spray all the threads and locknuts with PB Blaster for a few days before and get it set up.
Someone will chime in here if this particular linkage layout gets unhappy when the motor mounts get soft, too.

Hopefully the shifter linkage will free up, they should be light and two-finger to operate.

Keep chipping at it. It's worth getting it set up right. Just like any machine, set up wrong it doesn't do exactly what it should.

Phil

 

Clutches. I have been told that leaving a car sit with a standard is hard on the clutch. Then again you do not know how it was used in the past. I have seen people use the clutch pedal as a foot rest. Slipping the clutch real bad starting out on a hill. Who knows what has been done before you got it. Well, you got it to charge, drive, (somewhat, but hey it got you there and back home) stopping. A little fiddling at a time and you will get this car sorted just like the electrical system. Could be a leaking rear seal but you said no real drips and puddles of oil under the car. Years ago my employer got a road tractor, 6 cylinder Detroit with a 13 speed Road Ranger. Loaded it with 78,000 GVW. and sent me down the road. First hill smoked the clutch. This truck had sat for well over 5 years and had the complete; suspension, brakes, and tires replaced. They got rid of the truck I drove for years, 400 Cummins and a 9 speed because this truck was 2 years newer. Bottom line is I have been told a vehicle that sits with a standard. Expect to replace the clutch when you start driving it again. Keep your chin up and this beautiful car will repay you.

 

A couple of decades ago before I got back into cars, I was very interested in art, especially art deco. The later years of art deco has a sub-genera known as streamline moderne. This locomotive picture is a great example of a Raymond Loewy design.

Raymond Loewy also later designed the Studebaker Avanti.

The style of my prewar 1941 coupe is really growing on me. It's not a Raymond Lowey design but it is very art deco if not streamline moderne.

 

Art it was! I’m not entirely sure what the design motivation is today. The Volvo P1800 comes to mind. It’s not just the overall shape but the details that matter. To me the pre-war Ford straddled the sporty/luxury line. Not too heavy yet but classy!
D

 

Things are really looking up. Built a new zero-play throttle rod with Speedway Motors end-pieces and now have excellent control over the carb and engine. Took it for a 20 mile round trip to a different cruise-in and it was like a different car. The clutch was not slipping either, probably because I actually have a fine adjustment on my accelerator rather than just stop and go. That included a couple of steep hills at 50 mph and 3/4 throttle. Not going to worry about the clutch any more unless I have new problems.

Think I got some grease in the column shift linkage, seems to shift like it's supposed to once it's warmed up. Still getting the hang of all the double-clutching.

So, fuel pressure is correct with the new fuel pressure regulator, carb is rebuilt and appears to be working well, generator appears to be charging the battery with the new voltage regulator, still a 6 volt system, and it drives more or less like I'd expect an 80 year-old unmodified car to drive. Learning what the car likes and doesn't like and how much choke to use. Doesn't take much in southern California. Don't feel like I need to convert to 12 volts just to get it to start on demand any more. Still no mechanical fuel pump, relying on the electric pump. Holding out for a rebuildable original with all the correct details rather than just any old pump or a Chinese reproduction.

Took my original 1941 plates to the DMV to have them assigned to the car. Has to go to the state capital for approval so they took my 2021 plates and gave me a temporary tag.

Somewhere along the way somebody wired the headlight switch incorrectly and I have headlights but no taillights or parking lights. Not only did they wire it incorrectly, they soldered the connectors to the terminals. Not enough room to work under the dash and I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the switch from the dash. Probably wouldn't drive much at night anyway with a single 3 watt taillight, it's like a bicycle. Might just use a non-original toggle switch with the auxiliary lights I plan to buy to make turn signals. In 45 years of driving I've hardly ever used parking lights. Probably won't miss them.

Now that I feel like I can drive it anywhere without too much worry, the next two projects are seat belts and turn signals. After that I'll focus on squeaks and rattles.

 

You have worked, asked questions, and took the answers to the bank and are slowly fixing your car. That has to the most rewarding feeling for you and you can hear it from your posts. There is alot of experience here and you have used it and it has rewarded you. Kudos to you and all that have helped you. Try and help others here as they have helped you and that makes you a contributing member and gains respect. Make mistakes. We are all human and learn from them. Keep at it and you will have that car driving like it came off of the showroom floor in 1941.

 

Glad to hear that you
1. have fixed things that were probably never right since it's restoration and before
2. Developed a much better 'feel' for the car and it's operation and limits
3. gained confidence in the car AND your ability to diagnose, repair and maintain the car
4. are enjoying the car

As for the separate switch, bulbs and wiring for additional lighting, do some research on restoration forums and contact wiring companies to see what your options are. You may find something that fits your exact requirements already out there.

 

You can get the answer to removing the headlight switch on line. It’s not difficult once you get directions. Glad you’re enjoying that nice car.

 

I got my '41 Ford sedan on the road this past summer after a many year restoration/modification. It had been sleeping for 60 years and I made it my own with several changes that I feel will make it more reliable and safer. As many people have said on here, take one thing at a time and keep it fun. It can be frustrating but problem solving is a big part of what we do and when the fix it list shrinks and the car gets better it is very rewarding. you have received some great advice on here, enjoy the ride with your beautiful '41 (they are underrated).

 

Flatheads forever baby!!! The most money you can spend to go slow!!!! I’ll have a flattie any day

 

Slowly getting to the point where I can just get in and drive. Finally figured out how to get the headlight switch out. It was a devil. Oddly, the position of the terminals on the switch did not match any of the schematics. After testing with an ohm meter I finally figured out which terminals were which. It was wired mostly right but the headlight and taillight power supplies were swapped. Could have just swapped them at the harness but without pulling out the switch and testing it, couldn't really tell what was going on, and then I would have had jury-rigged wiring that would be hard to trace the next time.

Turns out the biggest problem was that, one of the power supplies had been disconnected. Earlier in trouble-shooting, I'd found a jumper wire with alligator clips jumping out the headlight fuse. Given that, I was very leery of just connecting two wires together. In reality, the fuse wasn't jumped out but it was another case of wires connected to the wrong terminal and the jumper was being used to put the headlights and taillights in series on the same fuse, which of course burned out the fuse.

Have three packages on the way: seat belts, turn signal switch, and fuel pump core.

I know some people poo-poo seat belts. Getting thrown from the car or flung into the dash really is a low-probability/high-consequence event. Most people can beat the odds, but some don't. Just don't want to be the guy that doesn't. Did a lot of reading on seat belts and figured out that, within reason, the higher the anchor point for the shoulder harness, the better. Actually works out well for this car. Just a little peace-of-mind for myself and my spouse. It will be a small project removing the front seat and some of the B-pillar trim. Nothing complicated though, just some labor.

Got a lot of great advice here on the H.A.M.B. on turn signal switches. Oddly enough, the hard part now is finding some taillight fixtures to mount on the bumper that don't look like a$$. Being a Ford Special, it's really stripped down and has only one taillight; i.e. need to mount at least one more light in the rear or all I'll have is a left turn signal but no right turn signal. Yes, I know I can use hand signals and be legal but I'll bet that most people under 50 wouldn't understand why I had my arm out the window pointing to the sky. Why has that dude got his arm out the window? Is he trying to dry his fingernail polish?

Since I haven't converted to 12V, my choices for additional light fixtures are VERY limited. Yes, it's easy to find a 6V bulb to convert an existing fixture but there are actually very few fixtures available that I can find, even on eBay, that actually use a bulb anymore. 95% are native LED 12V and I don't see a pathway to convert those to 6V. One solution, of course, is to just get another '41 Ford taillight, drill a hole in the fender and mount it like stock. Really trying to preserve the original Ford Special look though, so not going to do that. Determined to find something I can mount on a bumper bracket. Could mount pickup taillights to the bumper but that would look really clunky and homemade. Everything else I've found would look really clunky too. Nothing wrong with the rat rod look, but that's not what's going on here. Found a couple of motorcycle bullet turn signals that would work well aesthetically but the reviews say they're junky and the wires are very small gauge, even for 12V. Might have to defer this purchase to a swap meet search.

The other solution is convert to 12V. Then it would be simple to find good looking native (direct wired, no 1156 or 1157 socket) 12V LED lights; there are dozens, if not hundreds to choose from.

Have to get a fuel pump rebuild kit for the core that's on the way. Thought I saw some kits advertised as alcohol resistant but now that I'm getting ready to order, can't find any advertised that way. Just have to call to confirm before ordering I guess.

Anyway, once all these things are done, I can just park, drive and have fun while thinking about how to hot rod the car. That's what a lot of your advice has been. The further I get down this path, the more sense it makes.

 

But getting thrown out or hitting the windshield is TRADITIONAL!!!
SEAT BELTS SAVE LIVES!! Do it!
As to the taillight/brake/turn signal dilemma, I would also say BRIGHT LIGHTS SAVE LIVES (and metal damage.
Let the flamers flame on, but I would strongly consider adding the passenger side taillight, AND adding auxiliary lights (unobtrusively) to it. Also.... let the flaming begin... I am a firm believer in LEDs. Some may claim that a stock housing painted white is bright enough, but in today's world, when the idiots behind us can't see anything but their cell phone screen, I want all the insurance I can get! Some current replacement lights have plastic lens which look kind of phony, but I've had good luck darkening them up to look like glass by using the dye used for leaded glass available at craft stores. The LEDs still come through bright!
Some motorcycle lights make good additional lights for us. Check your local area for motorcycle wrecking (parts recycling) yards for possible suspects. Also look for turn signal switches and wiring.
Good luck!

 

Look at the truck under tailgate LEDS and see if the strip can be incorporated at the bottom of the back window so it doesn't reflect back into the car.
Current drivers don't look down for information, they expect it right at eye level and bright.

 

I like that idea a lot but have not been able to find single 6 volt LED strip anywhere; not even for tractors or motorcycles.

 

LEDs take very little power.
If you have a local supplier (not retailer) of LEDs, try contacting them for info.
You might try connecting a strip to your battery and see how much lower output it provides.

Seems like the answer is to do some research and make or have made, a strip that is the exact length you want that will work on 6 (7.2 running) volts.
https://www.ecolocityled.com/category/led_tutorials_power

 

Perfect just like it is..... Keep it tuned up correctly and just drive it like it is...you will love it.
Only add would be a dual exhaust with old style glass/steel packs

 

Missed this, but it's relevant- yes. My rings are bedding in to reasonably good bores and I had been doing a lot of short trips so the oil was becoming filthy fast.
It was not really changed on miles, it was changed based upon color and smell. That seems to be about the best way with this engine.

Phil

 

A lot of good suggestions above, I think adding the other taillight and adding a 3rd brake light at the license plate bracket will help safety wise. The front can be brought down with a reverse eye front spring and removal of s few leaves if you just replace the main leaf. I believe dropping a 41 axle presents issues with the steering arms as it is very tight and the arms need to be moved quite a bit by heating

 

Thanks for the up-vote on the tail/brake lights. Here are pics of the rear end with the single tail light and of the new incandescent lights I've ordered. The rectangular lights are only 4-1/2" x 2-1/2", smaller than an index card, and should mount outside the bumper uprights without looking too clunky. The 3rd brake light is from eBay; shipping was more than the cost of the light. Still 6 volt and haven't decided on LED or incandescent bulbs.

Thanks for the note on dropping the axle. Seems complicated. For my purposes, could probably get the same effect just with smaller wheels and tires up front.

 

I think a tire change size wise (rubber rake) will lower front an inch or a little more. Doing this plus my previous suggestions brings the front down a bit without major front axle modifications.
My 40 has a 4" dropped axle, poises revered spring and about 3 1/2" Outside diameter front to rear tire differential and sit just right in my opinion see photo keep in mind my driveway is slopped up hill

 

Failing that just for when you're out and about, I've seen wireless magnetic tail lights (usually for trailers and such) that would attach to the car... Get to where you're going and pop them in the trunk.

Maybe that would be an alternative? Yeah, they are ugly but they aren't permanent and they're nicely bright.

Just a thought

 

There is a video on those at Mart’s Garage on YouTube.

 

You know you can get 6v LEDs, in just about any configuration, right?

 

Well, no I don't. I thought I'd done all the relevant Google searches. I see hundreds of 12v LEDs but very, very few 6v. Please tell me where to look.

 

Yes on the second tail light as will balance the rear and have seen nice bumper bolt lights that look like bolt heads that work well also

 

Got the seat belts done. More peace of mind for myself and family. Not a bad project. Pretty time consuming but once the first side was done the other was much easier. No more problems than I thought I'd have. Came out pretty good.