Technical Flathead Pertronix ignition upgrade questions

Probably gonna open up a big can of worms but here goes...

I've been having trouble with my 59AB flatty in my coupe just up and dying on me while cruising. Starts up again within a couple minutes or maybe immediately or maybe I have to be towed home (all of that has happened) It's got a Bubba's crab dizzy on it with like 5000 miles tops. Been trying to diagnose this and I know it's ignition. Has the Bubba recommended coil and ballast resistor and I'm running 12 volts. So, it's either the condenser, coil or the points. Pulled the dizzy and gave it the once over and the first thing I noticed was the spring clip that holds down the breaker plate had come loose from the plate in the center. It worked it's way free of the detents on the body of the dizzy somehow. The ends of the clip were still holding the breaker plate in though. Snapped it back into position. NEXT thing I noticed was that the points (both sets) were not aligned properly. They just don't meet flush with each other, kind of offset...badly. They don't look worn at all, just not meeting each other.

Now, I LIKE points ignition systems so don't go off on me about that. I've heard it all before and seen it on other threads here on the HAMB. I ordered the crab from Bubba before he had all his health issues because I wanted the best crab points system I could get. I will tell you this however...I don't care where you're getting your points from (unless they're NOS), the new points available today just plain SUCK. Needed a new set for my '54 Chevy 235. Got them from NAPA and they flat out looked like shit. Let's not even get into the quality of condensers that are available (again...not NOS ones).

I'm going to change over to a Pertronix setup for my flatty. I've had it. I'm done. Yeah, yeah...I know, "That there Pertronix is gonna leave you STRANDED on the side of the road, I tell ya!!!". Well...guess what's been happening with the points setup???? Yup...stranded on the side of the road trying to figure this out. So...carry an extra set of (shitty) points and an extra (shitty) condenser or carry an extra Pertronix module. It's all about carrying the spares you need for whatever system you're running.

So...who has converted their crab to Pertronix and what was involved? Installation? Timing it? Etc. and so on. I tried to get a crab from Bubba many months ago and he "put me on the list". I have not heard from him since even with a follow up email. I like the guy. He's great. He really is and I don't have a bad thing to say or feel about him. I just don't think I'm going to get any product from him anymore and I really don't know what his situation is. I'm cutting him a lot of slack because his stuff was undoubtedly the best you could get. Maybe his health issues are preventing him from getting product out or he's closed up shop. I just don't know.

So...who's done the Pertronix conversion on the crab dizzy? School me please. I just want to drive, man.
Thanks,
Andy

 

I would suspect the coil or possibly the condenser.
@tubman , any thoughts?

 

I put a Pertronix on my 59a block. It bolts right on the points plate in place of the points. I was concerned that the timing would not be correct, But was amazed that it was perfect. The Pertronix people got that right in the exact correct location. It starts right up and seems to be running before the starter/ignition switch is even completely turned on.
I never had any problems with it. And have since sold the car, now the new owner drives the heck out of it. Without any problems.

 

I put one in my 6 volt avatar car, 1947 coupe, when they first came out I think in 2013, bought from pertronix and talked to tech support to ensure I ordered the right ohm coil, it has worked flawlessly and have never fouled a plug since being installed, works awesome and starts easily all winter in Canada.

 

Are you using the blue Bosch coil Bubba recommends? If so it does not use a separate ballast resistor.

 

What spark plug leads are you using?.
Al.

 

I have. My 60 is crammed in so tight the radiator has to be removed to get the cap off! The Pertronix bolted right in, I time it with a strobe, put a mark on the pulley and a longer bolt in the timing cover for an indicator. Vacuum brake works as normal.

I ponied up for the Pertronix II that won't blow if you leave the key on.

 

Using the NAPA coil and ballast resistor that he recommended.

Solid core Packard 440

Anybody else's experience with Pertronix install on a crab dizzy is welcome
Andy

 

I’ve run the same Msd unit on three separate pre-48 engines for the last 15 yrs. I’ve had to change out the cap a few times but used the same front mounted distributor.

 

Go for it, Andy.
I have electronic [ modified GM HEI ] in my Buick. ONLY problems have been self induced.

I ran Pertronix before the HEI. I used their coil.

Ben

 

Yup. I know that

 

I have a crab petronix ,but no coil. I think it's the VW coil 1.5 ohms. I have read several different opinions. help as I am ready to order.
Thanks,

jim

 

Better check on that. I believe the Igniter II requires resistance wires or plugs, because it has some smarts built it. I know I was running solid core with points and changed over to resistor, reluctantly, when I put in the Pert. I may have read that the Igniter I can use solid core.

I'm also using it with an MSD, and no special coil, just one with the recommended resistance, which I also can't remember. 1.5 sounds right at stated above. Memory is the second shortest thing anymore..

 

^^^I plan on calling Pertronix tmr to get the skinny on that as I really don't want to have to change out the plug wires if I don't have to. Bit of a PIA for the flatty.
Andy

 

Pertronix sez no solid core plug wires with the Ignitor modules. A few folks here have said they use them with the base model Ignitor I with no ill effects, but your mileage may vary.

Have to be careful running "hopped up" ignition components too with an ignition system originally designed and intended for 20k volt coils and contact points. The dielectric materials used then, and terminal spacing and the rest of it can cause trouble.

 

@chiro , is your ignition problem related to the not charging problem in your other thread.
How clean and adequate is the voltage feeding the coil?

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...charging-system-diagnosing-procedure.1228165/

 

Andy to answer your original question I have converted a lot of 59A crab distributers over to Pertronix its a nice conversion so far everyone has been pleased. Any failures experienced have been due to leaving the ignition on without the engine running this sometimes will cause a module failure. Now about the ignition wires the Pertronix works much better with the suppression wires not solid core type.
Ronnieroadster

 

Does Pertronix work ok with a generator?

 

Yes it works fine most guys I do the conversion for have generators

 

"Upgrade"?

 

Msd here as well, and love it.

 

You have to use new style carbon core resistor wires as I was told by the pertronix tech guys.

 

Pertronix says to use 0.6 ohm coil on 6 volt and 1.5 ohm on 12 volt

 

Make darn sure you have almost zero resistance as measured from the distributor body to the negative post of your battery. If its up near 1 ohm, you will have problems. Install it correctly, run the right wires and coil and you shouldn't have many problems.

 

It's a lot less than that actually, 0.2 ohms is the limit from distributor breaker plate to battery ground terminal. Be sure to subtract meter lead resistance for the correct measurement. This is the same resistance spec when using points too, iirc.

It isn't generator equipped charging systems that cause problems with Pertronix, I've got maybe 25 thousand miles on the Ignitor, most of the problems I've read about actually seem to be caused by low voltage, or on the other hand, excessive current, usually from mismatched ignition coils. Ohms Law is your friend here when setting it up. The Ignitor 1 can handle about 8 amps, quite a bit more than a stock point system.

 

Not on a flathead but I’ve run my Igniter 11 for 8 years after 2 bad capacitors. I use the stock ballast Resistor became I didn’t want their coil getting hot and it is an option from them. Plugs have been perfect and wires are resistor type. I ran a generator for 7 years and recently changed for AC and needing the generators location and it wasn’t a problem either.

 

I ruined my first petronix module in the first 20 minutes running solid core wires.
The second has been fine for years. I also run their flame thrower coil.
I just keep a spare module in my tool box

 

Have been running Pertronix in my roadster for ten years. No issues. Make sure you use the Pertronix Coil and by pass your ignition resistor. Also use suppression plug wires as RR suggested. Ron just set up another crab for me for my coupe and that works great as well.