Technical I SEE A PICKUP AND I WANT IT PAINTED BLACK

I mean you're a capable guy. I think you could spray either without issue. Just learn about whatever process you're choosing.

The look of the paint is more important to me.

When I said the same thing, because that was my concern too, I was scoffed at. Since then, with everything I've read, I believe I am capable. If I can be - you certainly are. Haha.

 

Acrylic urethane is very forgiving. And as deep as you can get in my opinion. Light tack coat, set until it strings when you touch it, then 3 medium wet coats about 15 minutes apart. Always check for that stringing between coats. Base clear is easier in a sense, but clear doesn't flow. These are all my opinions.

 

@Lloyd's paint & glass if I can touch tacky paint every 15, I am in!!! Hahaha.

 

When I first starting using the single stage urethane, I hated it. I had a basf system in my shop then, and the basf rep asked why I didn't like the urethane. I was running the hell out of it and it just didn't look right. I had a square body Chevy truck that was going black, he brought the paint and stayed with me. He told me to throw a tack coat on it, so I did. I can back in the mixing room, topped of my gun, and was headed back in, he grabbed me by the back of my suit and said "hold up there ol buddy", I said it's gonna dry! He assured me it would be fine, so I waited, went back on it at the right time, and it looked orange peeled as hell, I said "see what I mean?" He told me to wait. By the time I went in for the 3rd coat it flowed out like glass. I'm a believer when it come to black acrylic urethane now

 

So, for me, that means that I'm making the trip to beautiful downtown Owingsville when the T body gets ready for paint and guess who's doing it???????

 

I'm pretty good friends with the guy who runs the paint dept. at the Napa I deliver for. He's stated this very same thing about the BMW black mix.

 

For the most durable finish I would use a single stage black 3 cotes then 3 cotes of clear cote. All done one after the other, you then can sand and do a flow cote or buff. The benefit to this is you have a urathane base / color cote that will not diamante and have full strength all the way through. It's much easier to repair also....

 

Hell yeah Alan!! Except for the "beautiful downtown" part lol.

 

@X38 @slowmotion can either of you get the code for that paint?

 

I'm not sure if Axalta continued making G9900 basecoat after taking over Dupont but that is about as black as black gets. House Of Kolor black is right there too. That is if you go two stage. Single stage urethane is great for solids. I don't understand why some people are suggesting clearing over them. It's shiny by itself, not necessary to clear a single stage. The one thing I do do like about base/clear over single stage is that if you cut it flat with 600-800 after then shoot 3 or 4 more coats of clear., looks like glass out of the gun. Worth the extra time and money. Good luck on whatever you choose.

 

Not trying to hi-jack the thread. It is going to be single stage, but green.

 

I have not painted a car myself but I can tell you that my 40 coupe was painted with Centauri black 25 years ago. After have some damage to three fenders they were painted with by/cc. You can’t tell which is which.

 

This is not black but Nason single stage painted right there. Used this gun.
https://mavicautobody.ca/products/satajet-1500-solv?variant=16561953210466
The disposable containers are a couple of $'s but throw away, cleaning the gun
takes seconds takes seconds. I hate clean up. You can see the amount of overspray
on the floor.

 

Preach it!

 

Hairy ass

 

So hairy it needs some 'scapin! I think what makes WW tires look best is white guts, at least from the beltline up so I am planning a white headliner, white sail panels, the seat and doors will be both black and white and a black floor of carpet or rubber (still tossing that one around but leaning toward German square weave rugs). I have some gold piping in mind or something to add some interior detail.

 

That is smoooooth! More pics? Surely you masked off the garage? Pictures of your garage paint booth set up would be helpful.

 

I would never be considered a "professional painter".
I'm with Lloyds, acrylic urethane single stage, and the wait time between the coats.
Whatever you decide, be confident when you are shooting it..no time to be skeptical on choice.
Good luck!

 

I paint stuff bright colors so I don’t have to cut and buff, I’m lazy…

 

Painting is about 90% prep work.
The paint or gun used is irrelevant with poor prep work.
As far as “the look”. A black single stage cocktailed with clear looks great. A single stage black that uses the same hardener as a clear. A good coat of solid black then finish coats of color/clear mixed.

 

Amen that! I do my research, make my decisions and then jump in with both feet. Often I have done the last one and then back tracked to steps 1 and 2 when I fail but that doesn't happen often...

The prep started almost a year ago and I have countless hours on this truck and still not quite finished. I am not a body man but this is the best work I am capable of. I am hearing a ton of single stage opinions and it leads in the polls at this hour. Keep them coming. If I knew what I was doing I wouldn't be asking for help.

 

Good stuff man, thanks. Stringy. Got it!

 

Paint opinions have a lot of different variables
An easy to buff paint may be harder to keep detailed. Easily scratched.
A friend of mine wants the hardest clear coat he can find. Stays detailed longer in his opinion.
Base/clear is easier to fix accidents or trash in my worthless opinion.
Clear seams to have a shorter longevity than single stage if frequently exposed to sunlight. Another worthless opinion.
PPGs shop line single stage has had an adhesion issue or easily chipped in my experience.
A $60 gallon of clear can look as good as a $500 gallon of clear if used correctly.
I’ve cut and buffed oil based tractor paint that looked good.
I’m rambling again.

 

I read that swirl marks and cobwebs are easier to happen on single stage then B/C if a quality clear is used. I have no idea how accurate that is, but it did come off the internet so I believe it.

 

If you weren't a world away you could come to my shop and try your options. It's a pretty big deal when you think about all of the prep work you've done. Might be worth investing a few dollars in some materials to help you make your decision. If you're nervous about it, bc/cc is the easiest. From the beginning to end, you have the opportunity to correct mistakes. Not so much with a single stage.

 

I wish I could. You are right about the, I wont call it fear but perhaps anxiousness is a better term about fucking up a ton of prep work.

True story, 68 Chevelle SS 396, tons of prep, in the booth, shot the sealer and mixed the paint, put the syphon cup on the gun, turned to start painting and the cup which was not properly locked dropped off the gun, hit the floor and showered the entire car in catalyzed enamel. Not only did I have to clean up the mess do the final prep over, buy more paint and a new cup but I also had code RR (re-sale red) hair for a few months.

The months of work can be ruined in such a short amount of time. Welding is easy, mess it up, cut it off and do it again. Paint? Ugh

 

This is the blackest black I have used.. GM code WA8555 (paintref.com) PITCH BLACK

Urethane single stage get good coverage then 50/50% clear. As @Lloyd's paint & glass stated put down tack coat, Then I do 2 double wet coats for the coverage let tack off and then do the clear/paint mix for final, Then if gonna cut and buff 75/25 for room to cut..

 

Fearful, anxious? Nah.... I'm preparing to paint my highboy frame. Like you, I did a bunch of research here and on the internet. The clincher was looking at what great results my buddy had on his car with moderate experience and a modest budget. So I ordered up my single stage Daytona Blue metallic paint. I've painted cars before with respectable results, what could go wrong? So I set about doing a color test to be sure it's the color I really want. I prepped and sprayed an old hood panel and it looked great!
Two hours later it looks like a clear Montana sky at midnight. Thousands of tiny spots spread evenly everywhere. The surface is smooth to the touch, it's not orange peel (it might be micro orange peel under a microscope but you can't feel it with the tip of a toothpick) or metallic (it would all have to be standing exactly the same). I even took a little compound to it and it didn't budge. I was smilin', it was looking great when I started cleaning the gun.
Sooo..... I'll be looking for a paint shop and preparing to leave my car in paint jail. The anxiety is back! Damn.
That isn't heavy metallic. It's hard to capture in a photo but it ain't good.