Over the years there have been several bare metal early rods. I was studying Mike Chrisinger's outstanding bare metal Model A at the ROC and it was spotless. I've used Gibbs on the bare metal deuce package customer cars I built in the past but I think Gibbs would attract dust on the road. Do they just constantly clean them with a Scotch pad or something else? An inquiring mind wants to know.
At the 'Roc I talked to the guy with the polished steel 49 Ford. He said he waxes it a lot. Trys to avoid rain. And DON'T touch it. He really hated finger prints, which immediately rust. He agreed it is probably harder to care for than a really shiny black paint job. See it here, thanks to @Dan Greenberg : https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-gathering-at-the-roc-2021-my-photos.1245340/page-2
It's pretty but I think it would be like having a shiny Harley. 5 minutes on the road or 500 miles, it's still going to take the same amount of cleanup.
Pretty sure Gibb’s oil actually dries, especially if it is lightly wiped off a little while after application. Being metal I’m thinking the magnetic/static charge is what attracts the dust
Keeping that car in that condition is the definition of 'labour of love'. I imagine you find a lot of excuses not to drive it when every time the garage door is opened results in hours of detail work after.
We have built a couple and are in the middle of building one currently. We always just use Gibbs, but I have wanted to try this stuff out on something. http://www.nyalic.co.nz/
That's something that I can't quite understand the "why" or the nonsense of not finishing it after you pulled it out in bare metal for show and tell of your metal work skills at one major event and then put it back in the shop and finished it.
Some people just like the look and want to keep it that way. I wouldn't personally, but whatever blows up your skirt.
I wouldn't hesitate painting a rough rod with this stuff. Summit lists it as satin finish but, trust me, it is dead, dead flat. It is catalyzed urethane, and best of all you don 't need a second mortgage on your home to buy a can. Cost is only about $110/gallon which includes the catalyst sold separately. Ends up with a bullet proof finish every bit as durable as that gloss black job with the desired naked rustic look. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...JBwvgGPUs4vZ5c-ujlkV4xAidEOdkj2saArAFEALw_wcB
Not everyone's thing, & not mine from a maintenance point but always interesting to see the seams, joints, butt welds etc. of a well crafted chop or factory seams for that matter, not to mention lead work or lack there of by a savvy top rung fabricator.
I built model cars for a long time. I always did my own top chops, sectioning, whatever. No resin bodies for me. The contests I entered usually had a project table. I would show my stuff in bare plastic so others could see my cuts. Very precise, very little filler, and I finished the inside almost as nice as the outside. The cool thing about looking at an "unfinished" car is it prompts the viewer's imagination.
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