Gentlemen, OK, not too exciting. I have never ran into intake manifold gasket residue that is this difficult to remove, so I am hoping to hear suggestions. I am using a "Mr. Gasket Gasket Remover" applicator. (Little bottle with a sponge like applicator. You let it set for 15 minutes, and then start scraping. They allow as how it may take multiple applications.) The residue is just like iron. I am just replacing the intake gasket. If I was having the heads worked on I would be delighted to have the "hot tank" take care of it. (The engine is a 5.0L out of my 1989 F-150. This is the original Ford stuff.) Many Thanks !
If it's original are you sure its gasket residue and not simply carbon build up? That stuff is on the verge of becoming diamonds with older smogger engines. I spent a week, one Saturday, cleaning carbon build up off a set of valves from a smog era engine. *shivers* If it's AL you don't want to hot tank the intake. If it's red someone might have used thread locker as a sealant and that may be what you are trying to scrape off.
I never pass up a yard sale wood chisel that is priced right. Cleaned up and sharpened up they make great gasket scrapers. I have used one of those razor blade scrapers like you would use on a decal on your window a few times though. There's no magic to it, you just use your choice of scraper and keep scraping.
If it's just gasket residue, then yes, a nice sharp wood chisel, 1" wide, is what I use. If there's some kind of baked on metal, then you might need to get a hammer and cold chisel involved. We can't see the pictures you posted, so we can only guess. Patience is a big part of this process. .
Rosebud torch tip, moderate flame and char it off, leaves an easier final clean up. Its worked for me and others.
Is the torch safe to use on aluminum, with care? I know that aluminum conducts heat away quickly, but still am a bit nervous about it. If okay for aluminum, it would save a lot of work since the gasket residue often seems harder than the aluminum.
Like others have said, wood chissel. Just keep your other hand out of shooting range. Sharp chissels go deep.
At the machine shop, we used a wire wheel on an air powered side grinder on cast iron. Don't try it on aluminum.
There is a tool called a Super Scraper. It’s the finest, most effective gasket scraper I’ve used in 30 years. Lisle makes a copy of it with a plastic handle if you can’t find an Original Super Scraper brand. Check the bay of E. It’s a miracle on cast iron and can also be used on aluminum, but you have to be extremely careful with aluminum as to not dig into it. Think shallow angles and slow, methodical work. I also don’t like using 3M “cookie” wheels on aluminum, and hate the residue they leave on assembled engines. The last I heard, they were banned from GM dealerships due to residue contamination and engine damage.
Moderate flame back and forth motion, this only changes the characteristic of the gasket you still need to go after with some scraping and surface cleanup. Try a small area, if no results than drop the flame theory. Good luck
Permatex 80645 or https://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneu...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584001418557137&psc=1
I've always used a single edge razor blade fitted into a handle made just for those blades. I buy them in boxes of 100, and most hardware stores also carry the various handles to make them easy to hold. Never found a gasket yet that they wont work on. Some are tougher than others, and I am very careful with them on aluminum surfaces to not scratch them.
Paint scraper/putty knife sharpened to a sharp edge. Don't be shy using it with a hammer. re-sharpen as necessary. Soak it with Brakleen (I love this stuff!) before scraping. Wire wheel in a drill works too....... 6sally6
Thanks guys ! All the suggestions sound good. I am not sure which to try first. These are cast iron heads I am scraping, which I should have pointed out !
Do not used a wire cup brush as suggested. The wires will break off with use and will go everywhere.... Including into the oil pan and eventually the oil pump. Those little bits of wire will go right thru the pickup screen and into the pump, locking it up.
These do work really well. Once you get under the gasket the razor blade peels it off very cleanly. Hardly any cleanup afterward.
I got a snap on gasket scraper an old fat file with a slight edge ground into the tip a wide wood chisel a razor blade scraper the green “ cookies “ on a die grinder for some stuff wire wheels gasket remover Spray Seems every old caked on gasket has its own “ personality “ and what worked yesterday won’t work today . Find what works and have at it
And please, wear some decent goggles. Those little razor blades are brittle as hell and the corners like to ping off, especially if you're getting frustrated with a stubborn piece of material. Ain't worth losing an eye over. Phil
I use a 4" wide razor scraper that is available at most lumber yards. The blades are replaceable. I lay it down at a vary low angle. The higher degree of angle, the easier it is to gouge. I've been doing this for around 20 years and don't have anything I'd rather use. I've seen plenty of parts ruined with wire brushes.
Footbrake, I busted out laughing at that one ! Every time I read it I start laughing all over again ! Tommy
Although probably not traditional, an air powered gasket scraper used properly will save a lot of time and effort. It's overkill on most projects, but when you have gaskets that seem to be baked on and nothing else works, they are magic! JMO.
I bought a cheap one at princess auto I find it to aggressive on aluminum, but works wonders on remove grunge and stickers etc from steel and cast
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