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Technical Can Anybody See Why This Wouldn't Work? Suspension...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazy Steve, Oct 29, 2021.

  1. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,078

    gene-koning
    Member

    If the springs are outside of the frame, can you just move the spring perches up on the frame the 2" -3" the block height would be and eliminate the blocks altogether?
     
  2. I think the most I could gain would be maybe 1 1/2", and it would be a lot of work for not enough result.

    If this was a frame-off build, I could move stuff around and have more options, but it's not worth tearing the car apart that far when I have a bolt-on solution.
     
    Boneyard51 likes this.
  3. Now knowing you don't have room for any other option, I'd say worth a try. I wouldn't be worried about getting this deal up under the spring eye. Right at it should be close enough. You wouldn't want to have to add something that might show from the side. Hard to say from here.
    I wonder if you'll have enough rubber on the bottom to keep it from being annoying under there. The top bumper can always be trimmed. The bottom deal would need to be somewhat adjustable to find that sweet spot for normal ride..Yes a low 1st gear stick shift and an FE WILL wrap up the springs. Don't know about the sway deal.Usually not a problem with leafs.
     
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  4. twenty8
    Joined: Apr 8, 2021
    Posts: 2,345

    twenty8
    Member

    The caltrac bars work because, as the axle tries to rotate, they apply downward force to the top of the spring at it's weak point, thus working against deformation and 'wrapping'.

    Slapper bars work against spring wrap by contacting under the frame rail or spring eye to physically limit the rotation of the axle.

    If slapper bars (either normal underslung or @Crazy Steve 's top mounted version) are going to make contact and exert upwards pressure at,or near the weak point of the spring itself, they will actually be trying to add wrap. Leaf spring weak point.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2021
    Boneyard51 likes this.
  5. You're fixated on the springs, and you've given the answer as to why slapper bars work... to physically limit the rotation of the axle. That's it, end of story. Look at it this way: you're concerned that the spring will deflect with just a simple 'loop' under it. But if the snubber was contacting the front eye, what's preventing the spring from deflecting now? There's virtually no support for it, yet the bar works... because you've physically limited the rotation of the axle. Moving the contact back a inch or two (and spreading the contact over a wider area, putting that 'weak area' in the middle) will do the same thing. Some tuning will likely be needed, but that should be easy.
     
  6. twenty8
    Joined: Apr 8, 2021
    Posts: 2,345

    twenty8
    Member

    If it is what you want to do, you should do it................Go for it.:):):)
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2021
  7. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,451

    Boneyard51
    Member

    You are not considering the length of the spring. One inch from the front support bolt, the spring is extremely stout! Think bending a one inch piece of wire vs bending a 18 inch piece of wire! Leverage! Or the lack of! Length in leaf springs is very important!
    The closer the better to the bolt, but it is not necessary to be directly under the bolt! But you can’t be five inches from it either.








    Bones
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2021
    Mark Yac likes this.
  8. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,744

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    I’ve ran slapper bars that hit the spring behind the eye on lower horsepower cars with no problems. Unless you have high horsepower and are trying to get everything you can out of the chassis it shouldn’t really matter that much. Only difference in Steve’s design is the bar is on top pulling the contact up instead of being on the bottom and pushing it up. It will still stiffen the spring either way.
     
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  9. twenty8
    Joined: Apr 8, 2021
    Posts: 2,345

    twenty8
    Member

    As I have said in a previous post, it will work to some degree with the bar contact point under the actual spring. If that is 'near enough/good enough' for the OP, then he should go for it. His mind seems set on his design, and I hope it does what is needed in his situation. That one time he launches hard could tell, but that is never going to happen, is it ????
    A couple of slight changes, that should not be very hard to accommodate, would have it working to the full capacity capable from a slapper bar system (basic yet effective). The original question seems to have been asked to gain confirmation, not actual advice. So here is my answer at this point. Yes, it will work, but not as well as it has the potential to work with a few easy tweaks...........

    We just need to agree to disagree. I like to see things work to their full potential. Hey, it's just the way I am. "Job worth doing" and all that.................;)
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2021
    Boneyard51 likes this.
  10. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,451

    Boneyard51
    Member

    28, we are just going to have agree to disagree. Like you said “ it will work “ .








    Bones
     
    twenty8 likes this.
  11. twenty8
    Joined: Apr 8, 2021
    Posts: 2,345

    twenty8
    Member

    I agree..............................:D:D:D
     
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