i've searched and found some general threads and some specific ones that don't pertain to my set-up so i thought i'd just go ahead and ask. i've got a chevy 250 in my '66 c-10 that gets hot. i just put a new head, intake, carb, exhaust and radiator on it and it gets just about as hot as it did before. by the way, this wasn't all done to remedy the overheating but i did think it would get better with the new radiator. it doesn't heat up real fast but it does climbs up there. i drove it for about 5 minutes on the highway and then for another 5 in town and it never got into the red but i think it would. the one thing that i've seen that's a comon issue is a shroud. i don't have one and was wondering if that could be the entire problem. it's an aluminum radiator with the stock 4 blade fan. the thermostat's new but i don't remember the rating. timing is set at 10 degrees and it's an hei dist. any ideas. paul
does the advance in the distributor work? both mechanical and vacuum? do you have any idea how accurate the gage is, or what temperature "red" is?
Yeah, I'd hook up a temporary hot guage just to see exactly what degree you are running... idiot light may be to sensitive. But I know nothing, and it shows.
Huh, I know nothing too. But what I do know is that stovebolt 6's tend to run a lil more hotter than other mills.--How hot is hot? um, is yur temp gauge giving a mis-reading?-
yeah, i don't know what "red" actually is. that was also my plan to get a gauge with actual numbers on it. i just got back from a drive and it didn't technically overheat but it got up there on the factory gauge. i know heat rises and all but should the upper radiator hose be a lot hotter than the lower? as far as the advance, i was told to not hook up the vacuum can by the guy that did the exhaust. he also builds rods so he's not just a muffler guy but he said they advance enough with the weights. it sounded wierd to me. paul
P-nor, Is the distributor a computer controled unit or an earlier one? As long as its an early one hook up the vaccum to MANIFOLD vaccum. Set your initial timing with the engine at idle and the vaccum line unhooked and plugged. As far as cooling, Yes a fan shroud is nessasary, that will help. Have you checked your water pump? the impeller blades could be rusted off(happened to me)
If it's an automatic an auxilary trans cooler will help.A 160 degree thermostat will help and is often better than no thermostat.After it gets warm there should not be a huge difference between the temps of the upper and lower hoses,if there is you may have a circulation problem[see previous post regarding water pump] i have seen that happen once in the last 30 years but it's possible.These engines don't have an overheating problem!
You need to hook up your vacuum advance. Before you do anything else start there. And dont just hook it up, check to see if its working. Chances are the diaphram is toast in the advance pod attached to the dizzy. They are cheap, Buy one anyway, Then see what happens.....
Back when I was still learning to wrench on engines I replaced a leaking water pump. When I got it all together it overheated. I learned if it has a cover over the impeller pull the cover and check things out. Didn't know any better at the time. Ended up I had a new water pump with no impeller. I always leave the radiator cap off and let an engine warm up at idle and watch for the fluid level to go down when the thermostat opens also you can see if it's flowing or not. Also goes to show you just because it's a new part doesn't always mean it's working right.
thanks for all the ideas guys. i guess here's what i'll do. first i'll get a good temp gauge on it, even if i have to buy a crappy autozone one. i saved a thread that had a recomended vacuum can that summit has, i think i'll get that and hook it up. check the water pump and fan, make sure everything is as it's supposed to be. the waterpump was on the engine when i got it but was relatively new. like a few said before, that doesn't mean it's not bad though. i think i'll get another 180 deg. thermostat to try also. i'll let you know what eventually fixes it. paul
1) YES. the dist. needs all it's advance working. 2) The upper hose should be MUCH hotter than the lower hose. The more difference the better. 3) Put a fan shroud on it. If your main problem is at low speed, that is likely the ONLY thing that will help. And it will help a LOT if done right. Also, make sure the rad. is sealed to the core support. When the V8 was swapped into mine, the idiot moved the rad. back using all thread and nuts, so the air was free to go around the radiator, not thru it. 4) Thermostat rating doesn't make a bit of difference once the temp passes that point (if it always hits 200, a 160 thermo isn't gonna help a bit). If you REALLY want to know what it's doing, get a GOOD mechanical temp gauge in there at least until you get it fixed. BTW, 200 is no problem as long as it STAYS there. Been there, done that (62 GMC with a 454). paul[/quote]
First thing i would do is get rid of that aluminum radiator and get a nice stock one...There alot better and aluminum ones tend to get hot quicker.Then make sure it still has the baffle in it, alot of shops that rebuild or recore the radiators now days take the baffle out but the water flows into the overflow (if you have one, if not get one) alot quicker and you loose some of it causing the car to get hot. And another thing is to check what size cap you are running....best to run a 4lb if you can get one, if not a 7lb will work good, alot of auto parts places only carry 13lbs and those are for newer cars not classics. You might want to pull the thermostat out and see if it cools or try running an electric fan. While you are at the auto parts geting the new cap...ask for some stuff called "40 below" or something like that, it's about $25. but it works pretty good if you follow the instructions right. it is suppose to keep your cars temp down 40 degrees........I did these things to my Chevy Inline and i don't run hot.....NO MO!
o.k. it's update time. i haven't technically done a thing to the engine but i did go to walmart (it was sunday after hours) and got one of those cheapo 3 mini gauge kits for twenty bucks. i hooked up the temp gauge and took the truck out for a 45 mile run this afternoon. the temp here is hovering just under 90 and the truck never got over 195. so, should i still be concerned? i know that 195 is a fine temp and it's actually warm here today but overheating is my most freaked out upon problem when it comes to my cars. i worry about that sooo much more than any other problem so i'm always nervous until time has proven that everything is o.k. i know the gauge i used is a cheapo and probably not the most accurate but it was brand new and didn't really fluctuate when it got up to opperating temp. so, basically just tell me "stop worrying and enjoy your truck". paul
195 is minimum operating temperature on every car made for the past 40 years.....stop worrying and enjoy your truck!
I had one that I chased an over-heating problem on. Tried Everything. FINALLY found a radiator hose had delaminated. Inside ply had collapsed causing restriction/blockage. Now it's one of the first things I check!!
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