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Hot Rods 350 SBC won't keep running

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cluxford, Oct 28, 2021.

  1. It’s at least one of the five things you mentioned in your first post .
    Double check your intake gaskets .

    Tommy
     
    Budget36 and 427 sleeper like this.
  2. cluxford
    Joined: Jun 5, 2012
    Posts: 56

    cluxford
    Member
    from Australia

    Problem found. Not sure how or why it is doing this but it is.

    Fuel pump gets 12v on prime. Once primed it gets ZERO vaults.

    It worked before. I didn't touch any of this wiring. Single hot wire to fuel pump.

    It's "hot" when in the run position on immediately turning the key. But then goes cold once moved to "start" and back to "run"...weird
     
  3. jim snow
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,807

    jim snow
    Member

    Glad you solved it. Snowman
     
  4. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,174

    Budget36
    Member

    Do you have the pump wired off the key “start” circuit.?

    Another question, as I mentioned before, if the fuel pump shuts off when you try to start it, and it starts. How does that explain needing to have the idle set to 1800/1900 RPMs?
    I’m just trying to separate issues.
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  5. cluxford
    Joined: Jun 5, 2012
    Posts: 56

    cluxford
    Member
    from Australia

    Problem solved. I wired the fuel pump to 12v constant...purrs like a kitten. The wire it was getting it's feed from is clearly not working any more. As a result I am going to wire a new power wire to fuel pump from ignition source. I also plan to wire new coil lead from ignition source as that also was only getting 4v.

    Thanks everyone for your advice
     
  6. Wanderlust
    Joined: Oct 27, 2019
    Posts: 788

    Wanderlust

    Better to diagnose wiring and fix problem than adding more wires and creating a rats nest of redundant wires
     
  7. I Agree!!! Recently removed from under the dash of my ‘58 Pontiac.
    F8C266B3-6FC6-46CC-AD44-C2F56E3D0879.jpeg
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  8. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good to see that you got it figured out.

    In Reference to testing the HEI The Napa (auto parts) Echlin service rep gave me this pamphlet on testing HEI distributors in 1980 when I was teaching Auto Mechanics and he did a workshop for my advanced students. Photobucket There should be 8 pages and all you need is a multi meter to do the testing. This might be something you want to save in your reference file.
     
  9. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 5,325

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    I bet there's some Meth heads salivating over that!
     
    '34 Ratrod likes this.
  10. i7083
    Joined: Jan 3, 2021
    Posts: 166

    i7083
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Post #28 mentions a "resisted ignition wire". Don't use that. 12 volts from the switch to the distributor on HEI.
     
    427 sleeper likes this.
  11. cluxford
    Joined: Jun 5, 2012
    Posts: 56

    cluxford
    Member
    from Australia

    I ran new wires as I needed the car today, but they are temporary. I am going to track down the real issue and clean it up. I'm still at a loss how that wire (fuel pump) can be hot for a split second on key turn to run then nothing. But at least I know where to look now
     
    427 sleeper likes this.
  12. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,217

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Junk switch ?
     
    theHIGHLANDER likes this.
  13. cluxford
    Joined: Jun 5, 2012
    Posts: 56

    cluxford
    Member
    from Australia

    Well the saga continues. 2nd drive just tuning it in. 3 mins from home brand spanking new HEI with less than 3 hours of drive time shits the bed. I walk home. Get some tools and the old HEI and walk back replace it on side of the road. I only replaced the HEI as the carbon button had burnt off. I could shoulda just bought a new cap. But hard to get in Australia where I live. So fastest solution was whole new HEI. Anyway all good now. Onto cleaning up wiring mess
     
  14. Speaking of brand...what brand is it?
     
  15. cluxford
    Joined: Jun 5, 2012
    Posts: 56

    cluxford
    Member
    from Australia

    Aeroflow which is Australian. I suspect it’s just a rebrand of something
     
  16. If I didn't know better I'd say it was Rocket Industries house brand, made in China. You can get an Aeroflow just about anything that looks just like something else.
     
  17. cluxford
    Joined: Jun 5, 2012
    Posts: 56

    cluxford
    Member
    from Australia

    I’ve ordered a Petronius rebuild kit. I’m going to run a dedicated ground wire also. Dist shaft to chassis. Just to reduce chance of bad ground resulting in frying the module
     
  18. studebaker46
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 715

    studebaker46
    Member

    I am thinking your fuel pump is wired to the start pole on the ignition switch. crank it is hot to engage turn loose it is no longer hot, keeps starter from staying engaged. Tom
     
  19. From Harry Potter?
     
    SS327 and Sporty45 like this.
  20. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,467

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    When you get everything else checked out, check the power valve in the carb. Remember, it back fired early on.
     
  21. cluxford
    Joined: Jun 5, 2012
    Posts: 56

    cluxford
    Member
    from Australia

    Lol. Bloody auto correct. Petronix
     

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