Technical Another 700R4 issue to be solved.

It's the camera angle. The cable is 90 degrees to the throttle shaft, but the run of the TV cable to the TV pivot point is a slight downhill run. What the builder mentioned is the pivot points on the arc of the adapter from idle to WOT. Most adapters put the WOT position at a higher point in the arc than the idle position. He prefers the start (idle) and end (WOT) points finish at the same height in the arc and with this set-up it is very close. The distance you listed is what I have in the travel 1.125 from idle position to WOT position on the TV cable pivot travel.

 

Talked to Charlie the owner of the shop this morning. Explained what was happening and his reply was that makes no sense, we had all four gears on the dyno. I replied, that's why I'm talking to you right now. He said it would be fine to drive it over there manually shifting. Weather looks way better for tomorrow, so tomorrow morning it's be going over to his shop. So we'll see what the next chapter in this will bring.

 

Problem with no third gear in a 700 is multiple.
3/4 clutch packs reside in the input drum. If the clearance is checked incorrectly there can be too much clearance. Which can burn up the clutch packs. Clutches shouldn't be dry but they shouldn't be dripping wet either, they just need to be moist.
There is a plate inside the drum, that if it flexes under pressure, will distort and let the clutches slip.
There is the snap ring/groove that needs to be inspected. If it is just a smidge out, it will let the snap ring roll under pressure, lose clamp load and let the clutches slip.
And that's if the drum itself isn't already fatiqued/cracked/ballooning/burnt up.

If you are having a 700 rebuilt, don't even reuse the drums. Amount of time spent on verifying the drum is good is best to spend on just replacing it. They were junk new and are complete garbage with miles on them.
Sonnax has proper replacement input drums.

And that's not even getting into the control side problems that can occur.

HAH!
Took me one to learn my lesson. Took me another to never buy a 700 equipped vehicle ever again.
The only proper fix for a Th700R4 is a Th2004R... or a good manual conversion.

 

Reasoning should tell you that if it has 4 fwd gears when manually shifted it isn't a clutch issue.... It's a control issue. When it was on the dyno and shifted properly I am betting there wasn't a shifter hooked up, they probably shifted it on the trans itself. I would triple check each individual detent on the trans and shifter. It may go all the way from 1st to park but somewhere in the middle it could be off a little. Some times shifting from park to drive it doesn't hit drive just right but from 1st to drive it does. Test that theory by doing that. Park to drive and see if it shifts. Then at a stop move shifter from 1st to drive and then take off and see if it shifts.

 

It's got a 4L79 drum kit in it, about 220% stronger than stock and the guy has put these in successfully before. The 3/4 drum & clutches are the weak link in a 700r4 and it's why I went this way. As stated seeing it has all 4 gears shifting manually it's not a 3/4 clutch or clearance issue.

 

I was on the same wave length and manually shifted it through all 4 gears into drive. I left the shifter as is, hit the brakes and tried to get all 4 gears seeing I now knew I was in drive, it was a no-go. This was on jack stands.

 

Have you driven it on the road yet?

It is sometimes hard to feel one shift at light throttle on a lift. I have had 727's not feel like they shift unless manually shifting while on a lift. Take it for a drive down the street.

 

Where are you picking up your vacuumed signal? If it’s not manifold vacuumed it won’t shift. Not to the carburetor. Been There Done That.

 

There is no "vacuum signal" on a 700R4, only TV cable and electrical for lockup. Vacuum can be utilized to drop out Lockup with a vacuum switch to interrupt the electrical signal to the lockup pressure switch if somebody chooses to do that

 

I'll be driving it first time tomorrow since this rebuild to the transmission shop. I watch the speedo and tach to verify a shift when it's on jack stands and even under part throttle you can "feel" the shift. I have verified it goes both forward and backwards in the shop about 4 feet each ! The weather was crappy this a.m. and my ride home was busy today, so tomorrow it is. It will be it's longest trip at about 8-9 miles...

 

What? No "on the road" test ???... hmmmm...

 

Went for a sub sandwich about a hour and a half ago and halfway home I almost got in a head-on collision with an elderly, with handicap plates gentleman going the wrong way on my side of the road. About 10 feet from ka-boom, I'll take that as my omen for the day and pass thanks.

 

HOLY CRAP.... I'd prolly stay home for a week or so.....

 

Sorry I was talking about 350 and 400 sorry I had a brain fart

 

Drove the car to the transmission shop today and within 200 feet of my driveway I found it shifts just fine when it's on the ground and under load. Still went out to the shop, had the owner drive it to verify the TV cable settings and got the thumbs up from him. He mentioned with this stall, it probably won't shift into 3rd on jack stands and needs to be under a load to shift, kind of the point to having the stall I guess. It's a nice day, so time to fill it up and put some miles on it. Thanks for all the help, suggestions and support along the way, much appreciated, have a good one, Scruffy.

 

We all are anxiously awaiting a short video of your drive!!

 

I am glad you got it fixed, I know you are. A good 2-3 shift can be hard to detect in the air.

 

Thanks for the information. Interesting about the load being required. I'm glad its working out for you. You're much more patient than I am

 

Great glad you got it enjoy the drive.

 

Put on 50-55 miles today, only issue was my NOS 25 year old Jensen 600 watt Amp died. Have one more on the shelf, so will try that one before giving in and going more modern. Car drove well, chassis was tight and no squeaks ! Engine ran on the cool side (160-170, no thermostat but a restrictor washer) but was only 50 degrees today so will wait until next summer to see if I add a thermostat or not. 470ish cubic inches likes gasoline ! Did the highway for a stretch and @70 about 2350 RPM's, not bad for 4:11 rear gear. 1st, 2nd & 3rd have no problem spinning from a roll, standing start takes throttle control. Still learning this set-up, but appears it'll be fun and surprise many a car in the future. Will have to wait for somebody dumb enough to ride with me for a video in the future. So, so far so good. EDIT: The loud ass Holley fuel pump has got to and will be replaced. Now Jeg's offers an "ultra quiet" one for 2 1/2 times the price, go figure.

 

Sounds like a fun check out drive glad things are working out. Is that 2350 rpms with the converter locked up usually around a 200 rpm drop?
That 411 got to be fun thru the gears the 700R4 has nice low gears. I have a 383 700r4 with a 456 in my truck it’s a fun to go thru the gears. Have fun looking forward to the ride along.

 

Yes that is in lock-up. Mine locks up right after it goes into 4th gear, 3rd gear is the way to go around town. Think I'll actually get fairly good mileage on the highway in the future as long as I keep my foot out of it.

 

Put a toggle switch on that L/U 12v feed. Lots of time you can use 4th non-L/U. , especially with a raised stall converter. It should handle it fine.

 

Ya I have the toggle switch for around town. And also on the brake switch to open the circuit when braking not sure that’s necessary but I had the extra contacts on my brake switch.

 

Not going to hurt anything. Also you can install a vacuum break switch inline. 1980's C series had them right on the firewall behind the dist. All that will do is kick it out of 4th L/U for passing etc .If it wants to go to 3rd anyway, you won't have pressure at the 4th gear port, so it will unlock on it's own.

 

Quick update: Have 130 trouble free miles on it, transmission is working great. Sorry no video this year as the car is now tucked away for winter. Put most of the miles on mid day during the week, nice to be retired. Was having a power valve problem (3 of them) but engine wasn't getting up to temp. Had a resticter rather than a thermostat, 180 stat now in and better. Put different rear springs in also ( already had them on the shelf) it's butt was starting to sag to the point of exhaust clearance issues, all better now. So this chapter is closed for now and started my 31 A Vicky blown injected 392 Hemi project. The wagons new stance, hoping the springs all settle about an inch or so. Take care, Scruff.

 

Man that's a cool wagon !! Glad you've got it sorted out now.

 

Glad you got it worked out, you can look forward to driving the wheels off next summer. Wagon looks good, too!

 

I had a 65 Impala wagon I drove from SoCal to Texas when I moved here in 75. Even with a SBC and PG it was a freeway cruiser! I had just put my fresh 327 in it I had built for my OT Nova that got stolen a month earlier. I love the mid 60's Impalas !! I have also owned 2 67's. Miss them all.
Glad the trans is working like it should. You are going to love driving that thing !

 

Thanks, it's a cruiser !

Can't wait for 2022.

It's like driving in a Caddy, smooth... also neat having 4:11's in it and turning 2400 RPM's @ 70. Should be a fun 2022 !