I have found that when all else fails when searching for QC info, contact HRW in Caldwell, Idaho. I've been around hot rods and customs since the early 50's, and have never seen anyone who is as meticulous in building quick changes correctly and as trouble free....... Simply my humble opinion....
Jimmy, is it possible you could post a pic of the Sutter fully skin'd ... Im a 100mls. From Watkins Glen, an regularly go to the Vintage in sept.
@Jimmy Campbell Can you please post a picture of the guts of your diff laid out in order? I think you are missing the left hand spring that keeps the dog clutch engaged?
The only Detroit lockers small enough would be out of a dana 25 or dana 30 front axle. That narrows the search considerably.
Correct, no spring on the left side. The spring for the right side is contained in the spider. Not sure how that comes apart.
Well that is the problem. Both springs are missing! The small spring inside is not for the locker. The locker springs push on the backs of the internally splined dog clutch collars.
The spring inside takes appm 30 pounds of pressure to make it move. Yes it is holding inward pressure on the right side dog. Couldn't post a video.
Hey guys, I truly appreciate everyone's input and insite in this matter. Dug a banjo out of the weeds today and this is what I found. After using the hot wrench and hammer I got it apart, as I was told all the parts will fit in my center chunk. How are the gears held to the axle, pressed? No I'm not using these parts but they are all available, right? All I'll need to do is cut, spline and thread the stock axle or modify the stub axles I have.
Those gears are part of the axle. They don't come off. And by "available", you mean NOS, right? I doubt anyone makes new axles and spider gears for banjo axles anymore.
So I'll need to take the stock axles I now have and modify them, no problem, simple machine work. Maybe find some good used parts somewhere.
Ok slow down. You can completely run what you have . I wish I could see and explain this in person. The spring in the center of the gears is not part of the locker. It looks like it's to hold the axle shafts apart. There needs to be springs on the backs of the dog clutch rings! There is one in the upper left corner of the picture with the banjo center chunk. These dog rings drive the car! They need springs behind them to hold them in contact with the teeth on the center pin section of the Detroit. Find and off-road shop that build jeep axles. They can probably find you the right springs.
After failed email attempts to dumprat1 and Eaton, I've decided to post more findings here. I know there are many types of lockers but this is new to me. After looking it over again I decided to make a tool to compress the spring inside of the spider. My final thoughts were correct. In the pics you will see two washers with let's call them fingers. The washers hold the dog clutches to the spider by going thru the center and the tips of the fingers bent over to the inside of the spring. The dog clutch that was loose was broke off of the inner part that would have had the place for washer to hold the dog clutch to the spider. Now to use a different email to reach Eaton to see if this is one of theirs. Otherwise, tig it back together and mill it to fit. This unit is appm 50 or 60 years and had a racing career so if there were ever springs pushing on the dogs it would be evident by marks on the dogs and in the housing. All I have is a part number for the dog clutches, 416.
The third pic where the dog clutch is in 2 pieces, not sure but they had to have been more than a press fit. Over Rockwell 60 so if welded it would just crack. Machining marks show indeed they were 2 pieces. EATON said it was one of theirs but out of production. The fellow I need to speak with at Winters won't be back till Mon. So I guess finding original parts is rare? Ray at JobLot in Little Jamaica (Queens) would have them if he was still in business.
I am assessing a Halibrand V-8 Q/C for reuse. I need to know the dimension between the lower shaft centerline and the pinion centerline. I believe it is 3.000" but I would like a verification. Does anyone here know for certain?
Thanks for the reply Marty, but I need verification with a micrometer, or at the very least a caliper ...or if someone has blueprints??? I'm 98.5 % sure it's 3.000", but I need to make some cuts on the mill to the case, so it needs to be dead nuts.
That collar with the allen heads is the part that kept backing out, and locking up my rear. That's why i got rid of mine.
@loudpedal, I'm curious as to what you are trying to do. If you are trying to bore the case for the Timken bearing, there is a better way. Grind the O.D. of the bearing. Halibrand offered that way back in the 70s. If you measure the web between the lower shaft bore and the pinion bore, you should be able to verify the spacing between the shafts. The lower shaft bearing is a 206 which is 62mm O.D. (2.44094") The pinion bearing should be a 307 that's 80mm (3.1496") If my calculations are correct, that should leave a .20473" wall between the two bores. That is assuming 3.000" bore centers.
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