Projects NOT THE TYPICAL '30 ROADSTER BUILD

With a gallon of PPG single stage black and cat hovering around $1000.00 that’s why people are looking for alternatives. I had built a 65 Ford from a total loss multi colored. Loaned it to a friend of mine that was a house painter. About a month later Kieth and Jack came by driving this Slick Grey Ford I asked them who’s car it was Jack said it was mine. Jack and Kieth painted it with porch and deck enamel and they said there was a little Alcohol involved in it. It was really slick then Jack told me they cut it in with a 4 in. commercial brush and rolled the rest. One of the slickest paint jobs I’ve seen. It was nicer than the ones painted at the dealership I worked at.

 

@dana barlow I would be interested to know what primer you use under t hat rustoleum given that i just got a quote for B/C from NAPA to do my coupe and it was ridiculous!

 

Vtwhead ;
Any "enamel" primer,all though I like to stay brand to brand,as long as I can find it. Some exprets on here may know lots more.
I'm low $ an have always done my own cars in the back yard,wet down the grass an padio n spray on clear vary low wind day. I get lucky if no bugs at all.
Over the years did 2 buddy's cars also. Many years back our car club did have a paint booth,I never got too use,but rent got too high for club house after a few years,sold off.
Mostly ,most enamels are compatible with each other,( oil base)as long as it's not a fanzy water base or other newer types and labels should say. I don't trust all labels completely,so always do testing ***** on something that dosen't mater> too see if a odd thing shows up <I know that's extra time,but it maybe saving time to fix. Lot of things change over time in paint mixs,so testing I still think is needed. It's been over 10 years+ now from last paint job I did for my self on padio out back.

 

If you have bare metal be sure to use a DTM primer or you will have lifting or pealing. Remember your paint job is only good as your base. D=direct, T=to, M=metal. Yes you can go to the paint store and spend $2500. On materials real fast.

 

If you happen to own your own business, any type or set up a shadow company, you can set up an account at a national chain paint supplier and get 25-45% off retail. Retail over-the counter paint has HUGE mark-ups vs body shop prices. I have a fine art business with a federal tax ID and a little paperwork and a week later i'm in the system.

 

peter b. painted his '32 tudor frame / firewall with his brush... it was perfect...

 

Rollers, paint brush, porch and deck enamel??? Wow! I've never seen anything like that, at least not in a car.
Furniture I've seen it done but never in a car.
Would like to see some pics if anyone has any they can share.

 

We got to finish the last of the clear. coat My dad completed the entire paint job and super proud of it!
I've really enjoy seeing my dad spraying the car and the time we have spent working on it has been priceless. This paint job might not win trophies but I wouldn't want it any other way.

I have enough paint and clear left for the panels I will need to patch, as I am expecting something will come up when color sanding.
Outcome is very nice and smooth, couple of small areas where the clear sprayed dry as the wind was picking up and two or three little things that felt on the clear...should come off when color sanding.

Will be posting more pictures later...doors were last and easy to picture


Since the body was first to be cleared and it is now nice and dry....you can imagine...I couldn't wait. I gave it a go and started color sanding the rear quarter panel. Just wanted to do a quick test panel.
1,000 grit and looking very nice; eventually, I will hit it with 1,500, 2,500 and 3k before buffing/polish



Tomorrow, I hope to shuffle the garage and put the body and loose parts away and bring out the frame to front burner.
Time to start color sanding the frame and start putting it together.

 

It looked close to Ford’s Dove Grey sorry no pictures it’s been over 35 years ago. The first cars were brush painted. You could by brushing reducer for painting cars

 

So now that everything is painted and clear coated, it is time to go back to the frame.
Shuffled the garage around...and started color sanding the frame...more sanding

 

nice! following, I'm building a 29 roadster myself.

 

Hey, 1-shot;
I should assume the alky went into the painters 1st? . Do you remember, or might they, after all these years, what kind of hardner was used? I'm guessing it was multi-coated, well sanded & buffed out? Or did the paint lay out that well from a slowing agent? Sounds like stories from my dad, using some-kind-of enamel, paint-drying-slower solution(IDK what, he never said), & using a (new)powder-puff to lay it down with. Said it laid down & dried w/o any lines or streaks in the paint. It sure wasn't Joe Baillion quality, but good for the times - ~early 50's when $$$ were very tight, but appearance was important. (Read: no rust, primer, patchwork of multi-colors, etc).
TIA for any other info.
Marcus...

 

CORRECT the alky went into Kieth and Jack 1st. There was no hardener used just straight porch and deck enamel and it laid out slick and they probably reduced it with Mineral Spirits which helped it flow. Both Kieth and Jack were house painters by trade.

 

Starting to color sand the frame...getting rid of that orange peel.



Slow process as I am blocking it by hand. I am afraid to use power tools here...My lack of experience makes me feel that I will burn through the clear.


1000 grit making already a difference

 

Proud moment...
It took me two rounds of blocking to get where I am now.
I went through the 1000, 2000 and 3000. Use the 3M step 1 and 2 just to realize there was more orange peel than what I wanted...plain fear to burn through the clear.
So more 1000 grit


and more 2k and 3k


Round 2 made a big difference


Just the 3M step 1 and it already looks like this


Not professional results but damn happy with it especially for my first time.
I should be finishing with the buffing sometime tomorrow and then will be a adding a single pinstripe line to the sides

Frame should be off the dolly and on the ground by Friday/Saturday and then I can start assembling. Can't wait to see the powder coated parts go on.

 

Great job. I know it’s a lot of work, but it looks great when you’re done.

 

Very rewarding to stand back and look at it. Almost makes you forget all the hard work it took to get there.

 

One side down and one to go....I like the reveal of the '32 frame.
Pinstripe matches the pinstripe on the wheels and will match the body lines pinstripe too.
My Beugler pinstripe tool went south today, puking paint all over the place. I am going to try replacing the leather washer and see if that helps.

 

Time flies when you are having fun...9 months I was worried that the dolly wasn't going to hold up the frame.
Today, the frame is back on the ground, the dolly is up for sale, and progress continue to start final assembly.
The goal is to use all button head stainless steel bolts so the search is on for everything that I need



In the meantime, an easy project. Finally installing the air scoops onto the front backing plates.


Two bolts holds the min place.

 

Digging the paint @home approach!

 

Thanks!

 

I've been buy at work and with very little free time to work on the roadster. I am trying to at least dedicate 30 mins or 1 hr each day. Getting closer to become a roller
Spent a lot time finding all the stainless steel hardware I needed to install all the parts. Ace Hardware was the best source I could find for it.

Brakes, drums and wheels/tires are next on the list.

 

Front brakes just about done. Time to order some brake hoses for the front.



Polished top of fins


Also polished rear lip and back of fins.

 

Looking AMAZING!

 

craftsmanship !

 

Looks great! Keep up the brilliant work!!

 

Thank you all. Hoping to get back to it now that x-mas is done.

 

Rear brakes are done for now!


Those drums are beautiful!
Just missing the spacer between the hub and drum.


Rear end coming together just like I was hoping for....


...Got to get the tires mounted next, so I set it on the ground

 

There sure isn't much meat around the wheel studs. Those flanges needed to be larger diameter for that bolt pattern. I can see the flange cracking between the stud and the outer circumference That is something that you had better keep a close eye on.

 

Chassis sure is looking good; all the work you are putting into the paint and detail work is paying off.

Noticed in a couple of your pictures that seal surface on the front spindles was painted; I've see the paint "ball up" in use and damage the seal on another rig.