Anyone put a 302 ford in a model A , if so what transmission you are you running ?? I want to run a manual , but I think a t5 can’t handle the 345 horse from my SBF . But T5 line up killer as far as the shifter position right ?? Help please
Yes a small block ford is a great motor but has to be shortened a bit to fit better. A few post s on the subject but will be brief on what you have to do. The water pump has to be changed to a short pump and you will need the pullies as well. They are available thru ford motor sport or other vendors . This will make it the length of a Small block Chevy but with more clearance on the firewall area because fords distributor is in front
Also I recommend getting your steering setup first then the exhaust headers or manifolds. I found ford Motorsport headers drop down at the firewall and so it gives more clearance on the drivers side. They also make a oil filter 90 degree adapter so it will clear steering box if a Vega one will be used. As far as trans I used a reverse manual valve body C4 and 2800 stall as I had more HP
No billet look polish or scuff to match other performance parts. As I has a cobra 3x2 ford intake . Mine was original but ones can be had from blue thunder. I mounted my body on the chassie and took my block and heads and left a 1/2 inch of clearance on the firewall. It’s a tight fit but looks good when finished. The motor mounts are simple flatstock on engine block. Then mounted to simple cheap bisket mounts. And universal frame motor mounts
If you don’t care about the overdrive I believe a t 10 will work it’s been 30 years but I think that is right, also I remember cutting a bit out of firewall
So if I left a 1/2 inch clearance between a stock model A fire wall and a sbf 302 I should be good for Motor mounts?
I understand on the stick but it’s just a bit more engineering with brake pedals ,exhaust clutch linkage. I have done it and mocking up EVERYTHING is key to great results.
There is another thread with a similar T5 question. In that I pointed to the 'rubber fuse.' If you have tall skinny hot rod rear tires, they will protect you from breaking anything else. Fat slicks? Not so good. In the land I live in there are plenty of A's with SBF's, both W and C versions. Plus, we have to deal with the starter on the steering and pedal side as well. You just have to think harder. In concert with what @continentaljohn said.
Sounds like you are wanting to use a stock firewall . That's probably not going to work ( it rarely does with Model A's ) Get the radiator you are going to use , then get your engine set up with the water pump , fan . and pulleys you are going to use . Mock all of this up in your chassis . The last thing you will do is cut the fire wall to fit .
How come there’s so many people with different options lol it’s weird Either it will fit or not ??? I don’t get it …
Okay, hang on...you're the guy building this chopped AND channeled , an aftermarket frame and you're 6'3" ? Information like this really helps with answers. Otherwise people will assume a stock frame and stock body. Anything else changes everything. No one has done exactly what you want to do with exactly your parts and your body shape. You're gonna have to mock man, it's not paint by numbers.
There is a misconception of those ratings. Borg Warner rated on 100% load, for the entire test duration. If it gives a number, that it the 100% duty-cycle rating. It is not a shock-load rating. The World Class T5s behind the 5.0l (later 302) can handle a ton. There are some upgrade parts that can be installed to beef them up if you are concerned I have seen Fox-body guys wheel stand on slicks, with a T5, without breaking it. If you are not planning on that, you will be fine. The bigger issue is where, after you relieve the firewall to clear the bell, are you going to put 3-pedals?
I had a channeled Model A. I built it initially for a manual, but had to switch to an automatic. I know you are not channeling, but the bell will intrude on the firewall. A C4 is a a good choice, as it is fairly compact, as automatics go. A 302 is totally do-able, but as has been mentioned, you will need to get the full set of the shortest components that Ford used. It can be all OEM stuff. You would be best served sourcing these from an intact vehicle, such as from a self-service yard. Ford installed about 8,437 different combinations of parts, for reasons only they understand (if even they do). Mixing and matching might make your eyes bleed.
If it’s a Windsor you can get an adapter to fit a shorter GM water pump (here in Oz ) and with the T5 there’s a upgrade you can fit into the box to handle more torque that replaces the lay shaft bearing retainer. All options As most are saying though, pedal room is your problem.
Do all of the above and if its a 30/31 reverse the firewall. If you are still struggling maybe stretch the frame in front of the firewall an inch. You'll be boxing the frame so do it then.If you are sweeping the frame do it there. Too much and it will look off.