Technical Stromberg ww adjustments

Me again! Trying a start up for the third time, so trying to get all the info I can ahead of time. Has the stromberg ww rebuilt. The two adjusting screws on the front are for what? And if I need to Roche. It up a bit, how would I do that? Thanks Dan

 

The two screws on the front are the idle needle valves.

To roche up the carb, leave it under your bench for a while. Get wood shavings and mouse crap in it. Swap the jets for two mismatched ones, lose a few screws and cross-thread at least one.

To richen the carb up (or at least the idle), turn the screws out (evenly) an eighth of a turn at a time.

Cheers.
Harv

 

Thanks Harv! The first bit of advice is what I’ve been trying to no avail! Ha! I’ll try the second piece, thank you. This project has been a life altering experience, not all positive either!!

 

The only adjustment screws on the front that I remember are the idle mixture screws. VERY GENTLY screw them in until they just seat and back them out 1-1/2 turns to start with then after it is running you usually can do the fine adjusting. A vacuum gauge works great for that if you have one.

 

Be aware the fulcrum screw in the accelerator arm is left hand thread. Righty Lucy lefty tighty

 

Mr48chev. Thank you for the pic of the carb and information. I’ll check that before we start it up. Still trying to do the cam break in! This will be the 3rd attempt. All issues have centered around the carb or high temp! Think I’m getting closer cause I’m not great at this sort of project! Thank you again, Dan

 

Thank you Paul!

 

I used to like rebuilding those because they usually do exactly as you want them to if you make all the adjustments right.

 

Good carb. Had one on my Holden six cylinder for 18 years. Hardly ever touched it. Was thinking of making a manifold to put one on my avatar, or maybe 2 of them.

 

Can't remember if you are running triple SUs or Strommies?

The local WW's are good for 280cfm@3”Hg, about 2 1/2 times more flow than the grey strommie. A pair of those would be like quintuple (5) carbs. Perhaps a little overcarbed for the grey, even with you wringing its neck

'Course, feeding the beastie a little methanol could make twin WWs about right....

Cheers.
Harv

 

Different specific models require different adjustments, but in general Stromberg suggested 1 to 1 1/8 turns on the idle mixture screws for the type WW. Checked several individual models, and the maximum range was 1 1/4 turn (maximum rich). This application was a truck.

When seating the idle mixture control screws, LIGHTLY seat them. The throttle bore is thin where the idle mixture control needle protrudes, and I have seen more than a few where the seat was cracked because of a ham-fisted "mechanic".

For the most part, the WW is extremely reliable with a single exception..................the throttle body, which is made from aluminum. Once the aluminum forms some oxidation (aluminum oxide), it "sandpapers" both the throttle body and the throttle shaft. If the clearance exceeds 0.010 inch, bushings should be installed in the throttle body, and the shaft checked for out of round, and possibly replaced. Once this fix is done, one can expect a few hundred thousand miles, with only needing to possibly replace fuel valve, float, or accelerator pump.

For identification, the factory installed a round tag under one of the airhorn to bowl screws containing the sales number, and the O.E. part number (neither of which are useful in either identifying the carb, or obtaining a kit).

But Stromberg, knowing the rebuilders would throw away the tag, also STAMPED an identification number on the airhorn. If one cleans the airhorn (the number is stamped into the metal, not raised), and then looks straight down on top surface of the airhorn just above where the fuel inlet is located on the bowl, the number will be found. Sometimes faint, but it will be present. This is the number useful for identification and acquiring kits.

The identification number is in the format: mmm-nnna

where mmm is a 1, 2, or three digit number representing Stromberg's code for their customer,
nnn is a 1, 2, or 3 digit number representing the sequential model sold to this customer,
and a (if present) represents the production status code

Example 3-163A would decode as 3=Dodge, 163 would be the one hundred and sixty-third model sold to Dodge, and A would mean the carburetor specification had one minor change from first production.

Commonly found manufacturer code numbers on the WW would be: 3=Dodge, 6=Studebaker, 7=Buick, 15=Plymouth, and 23=G.M.C. Earlier Chryslers used 4, but later Chryslers shared the 3 with Dodge.

Jon.

 

The Aussie GM Holden WW's were also stamped with a 23 prefix

Cheers,
Harv

 

Harv I'm running triple 1 3/4" SUs. I was thinking of a manifold with 2" of riser under the carbs. Might run like shit but worth tinkering with just for the heck of it.

 

Know the feeling. I made a triple Amal setup last year for the grey motor (just for shits and giggles). More info here:

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=23621



Must get round to test running it on the engine cradle, though plagued by bowl leaks (I need no help in setting stuff on fire ). The internal throttle (slide) return springs are mighty fiesty too.

(for the curious. the head above is a GM Holden grey motor unit, 1948-1963). 138 cubes of terror

Cheers.
Harv

 

Give it a go. What's the worst that could happen?

 

Roth used WWs on the Mysterion. I had mine chrome plated for my Mysterion clone and the plater didn't mask off the inside of the bowls so everything got plated. Surprisingly the carb I run the one running engine still works great.