Do they make an aftermarket or an upgrade from the standard rope crank seal for a flathead? And if so where can I find one?
I have a customer at my auto parts store that does flathead engine rebuilding. He uses a national seal, I can't remember the number, with silicone in the timing cover and oil pan. he says he's never had one leak and it's easier than the rope type. I'll try to get the National seals number from him. Dan Marvin, Owner Exeter Auto Supply
I am using a one piece front oil seal in my flathead.....Speedway Motors.... Part #912S12853 No leaks....silicone the channel in the timing cover and oil pan first....then bolt 'em up... Go here: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/paging.yes/dept_id.699/display_id.3109/qx/Product.htm Brucie
The speedway seal works great. Just make sure that you remove the spiral oil grooves on the front pulley. For the rope seal to work a deep spiral groove is cut into the pulley or crank bushing depending on model. The groove is spiral cut to pull any collected oil back into the motor. I recently went through the mess of fixing one that someone didn't remove the groove, the seal or what was left of it, leaked about a quart a day!!!
No rear seals that I know of, although I have heard of at least one person trying to work one up. There is a Buick graphite impregnated rope seal that can be used in the rear, but I can't remember right off the top of my head which one it is.
I just purchased a new pan kit from MAC'S. It includes the graphite impregnated seal. When I installed, I soaked in oil for about a day before install. That was about a mounth ago, No leaks anywhere. http://www.macsautoparts.com/
That's interesting. The previous owner of my flathead put in one of those Speedway seals and it leaks A LOT. I wonder if he didn't take care of the groove.
I put one of those Speedway seals in with the spiral still there, I just didn't clean the varnished crud out of the spiral cut......hasn't leaked a drop (knock on wood).
I was under the impression the Speedway seal came with a sleeve to put over the spiral grooves. MAybe that's for the Buick seal?
Discussion about this front seal on Fordbarn.com today. Most responders installed the seal on the spiral grooves and have had no problems. I think I'd talk to the seal mfg. about the spiral grooves b4 installing.
I ordered one of the Speedway seals. Jacked it all up on installation and kinked the spring inside of it. Totally my fault but I thought I was being pretty careful - has anyone else found them to be fragile? Decided to reuse my rope seal and I'll get a drop or two on the garage floor every couple of days.
I put one of the new lip seals (came from Bruce Dahl, probably similar to the Speedway's) and it doesn't leak. I didn't modify the spiral either. The engine was rebuilt 700 miles ago and we put in a new graphite type rear rope and so far it is not leaking either. Leaked like a sieve before with the old rope.
Not a hint of a leak in the front or real seals on my flatty .......rear is just the rope seal you get with a gasket kit......I did not alter anything on the spiral pulley groove either......just make sure you silicone the timing cover groove and the oil pan groove real well when you install them to enclose the one piece front seal.... Brucie
Depending on what you have available to you. I had a machine shop cut off the two inch section of pulley that was spiraled and machine a new collar to replace it. The other method is to slide a speedy sleeve over the spiral, or machine down and add speedy sleeve. Either way it should be done. The groove just cuts and rips out the seal.
Do you guys with the drips from your modern front seals use the original oil slingers too? Did you put a bit of formagasket around the outside of the seal? I would think they could be as foolproof as a SBC.
Couldn't see a point to the Buick-style seal myself. There is more to changing over an engine designed for ropes to a lip seal as seen in these posts. The crank/hub isn't made for it, the pan and front cover aren't made for it. What centers it? It's not a machined bore like a Modern Engine.
I've done modern front seals with & w/o sleeving - I don't think there's a repeatable pattern either way - I've seen 'em leak with sleeves & not leak with the groove. I think it comes down as much to the seal as anything else. I believe there are two or three seals that will physically fit, but may have slightly different tolerances. I know at least one I used was originally designed as a auto-trans tailshaft seal...
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