Another option would be a lowering trailer. You have a parking space for your car at the camp ground, you could use the lowered trailer.....as your parking space....in your parking space. You can drive on and off the trailer without being hooked up to your tow vehicle. 16.5 ft and 5768 lb. capacity. You can carry a hand dolly with you to get it exactly where you want it. I use one on my trailer....works perfect. https://www.futuratrailers.com/ An optional covered one.
I remember flat towing race cars. A muncie liked to be started and ran about every 200 miles to splash oil around and lube the needle bearings between the imput and the output shafts. In most cases the cluster gear is the only one in the oil and it is not turning in nuteral unless the imput shaft is turning..
Buy a toy hauler for a small coupe or roadster. If you already have a 3/4 ton pickup you’d be all set. Forest River makes them that’ll haul 4000 lb. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/anyone-use-a-toyhauler-for-their-cars.1102102/
I do have a single axle trailer but it is just a utility trailer. I do plan to build a couple though for my “race” cars.
Towing a stick shift vehicle still requires the drive shaft to be removed for any distance towing. The spinning drive shaft is still driving the tail shaft, but not the main shaft. On some transmissions, most I think, the oil is not being flung around the gear case. The main shaft drives the cluster, which rides in the oil and distributes it through rotating motion. Damage can occur to the bearings and seals. I have seen a chart at a U Haul rental outfit that identifies certain trans which can and cannot be towed without removing the drive shaft. I am no expert and am sure some fellows on the Hamb can provide more accurate information. I have towed race cars short distances with the shaft in place. Distance driving is something that may require more consideration.
Good to know. There are these type of options. https://www.remcodsc.com/coupling/ https://www.alldrivelines.com/custo...r REMCO units,the drive shaft or transmission.
I've owned 3 so far. They have their drawbacks, but I used to work for an RV dealership, so I'm not worried. Non-mechanical folks should worry. I am not really worried about the tow vehicle, I am really wanting to discuss the roadster. Plus it keeps it on topic and Mark can rest easy.
Besides the fender issue and whether or not the trans will self-lube while flat-towing, one issue hasn't been mentioned... brakes. I was going to do this a number of years ago, but my vehicle of choice was a '71 VW Beetle. The old VW is one car that can be flat-rowed without trans damage, and after I hacked the roof off I had a low-budget roadster although it wouldn't have passed HAMB muster. But one reason I selected the VW was vehicle weight. Some states did require the towed vehicle have towing-vehicle activated brakes if it weighs over a certain amount (1500 lbs here at the time, which the Beetle just made after taking off the roof and discarding all glass except for the windshield, along with 'other' unneeded stuff) which isn't a problem if it's a trailer of some sort, but it can get complicated if you're trying to tie to a car braking system. There's ways to do it, but it's not easy.
Actually, most standards are not towable in neutral. When you tow in neutral the output shaft is turning, but the synchronized gears that are bushed to the output shaft are not. Those gear bushings the synchronizer assemblies and the bushing/bearing between the input and output shaft are receiving no lube. Yes you can tow in neutral for short distances with no damage, but long distances will trash the transmission. People who flat tow long distances either use a splined device to disconnect the drive shaft, actually disconnect the drive shaft, or let the engine idle in neutral (which has it's own set of problems).
OK, so to get this back on track. It looks like I can't tow with a stick unless I have a driveshaft disconnect. So, if I build a custom 2 wheel trailer, it will have to be modular and take up as little room as possible. I am not really looking for advice on motorhomes etc. I appreciate the thoughts and normally I would chat all day about this stuff, but I am trying to keep it o the focus of the traditional side. Thanks for all the input.
I think it’s a neat idea. I had a class C and extended the frame out for a generator and a separate fuel tank under it. Took out the rear window and framed it for a room AC unit. Ran a fan in the “hallway” to blow cool air up front.
Could you do a do a center spin type design? I remember @Ryan showing that his camper uses a center beam/tube with out riggers. could be a way to make a sturdy but ultra light trailer with a front and back outrigger for each axle to hold the tires and something to span the gap. kinda like a small boat trailer? I feel like I’ve seen similar in maybe a thread on trailering drag cars back in the day? super interested in this topic as I’d like to pull my A sometimes and often the trailer weighs more than the A. Also kills a lot of options for what to pull it with when you double the weight. There’s got to be a vintage trailer thread we can pirate?
Tim, I am also a vintage trailer guy. The old trailers had two styles. A pipe and a ladder style. Both work, but have different drawbacks. If I build one it will have to weigh under 1,000 lbs. preferably less. Maybe, this should be in the antiquated section? @Moriarity, thoughts?
Great idea glad you have RV experience and getting a plan together. I’ve been doing the RV thing some time myself bumper pull fifth wheel and class c motor home. Done the flat tow with quick connection tow bar loved it no problems Done the car trailer for the old car and grocery getter A little more work involved and storing can be a issue on some spots for sure and tolls are more. The tow dolly with brake controllers is my favorite and sliding it tight behind the RV never a problem. Good luck will be following
You know by the time you build a trailer and think all this shit put it might be easier To build what amounts to a driveshaft loop with a removable bottom U with a third leg on the back side. put it near the rear axle. Lay down, pop the hardware off the rear u joint push the driveshaft up, bolt the “U” on and be done. holds the driveshaft up out of the way and keeps it from sliding back. make the hardware the same size as the u joint retainers and you can do it with one wrench if you weld nuts onto the “loop” we might be over thinking this all. tow bar on the front has questions about a hood mounting point. The frame horns rip I’ve seen it a ton. Front axle might work but it’s kind of a flexy spot to hold onto. the two wheel dolly that holds the front wheels might be the way to go then? I’m sure there’s one small enough to shove out of the way and chain to a tree so it doesn’t walk off?
Yeah, the dollys work but they are made for front wheel drive stuff. It’s a lot to ponder. I may end up building a hot rod tow rig and stay with a vintage camper. That’s why I like bouncing stuff off y’all. Helps me get a clear vision.
The dollys are for a front wheel drive car because it lifts the drive wheels off the ground and you don’t have to pull the driveshaft. If you pull the rear unjoint and secure the driveshaft on a rear wheel drive car it’s going to act exactly like a front wheel drive car when it’s on a two wheel dolly
Right. I would like to avoid having to crawl around under the car every time we unload. It's doable, but I'm lazy.