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Technical Freddie's Latest ...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Flathead Freddie, Jul 14, 2021.

  1. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Hi Everyone

    Freddie has been froze for many years but has a promising future so I chose to take the time and do the teardown safely to ensure no cracks or loss of the main parts ( block , crank , rods ) . Extracting Freddie's parts is a two month long road of extracting resoaking in petroleum base products only and carefully tapping here and there , using a few flathead tools and the monster 36" boltcutters to remove valve springs and valve stem . Lots to still do the crank assy is still froze but loosened a rod cap and two main caps last week . Got some guides out with the tool and now need to rebuild it's pad to continue on . All is well and there cannot be a hurry and no simple shortcut just soak and tap and Freddie cuts loose with about 4 parts a week . That amounts to 7 -10 hrs a week hand on the rest is soak time . I was going to Electrolosis Freddie but do not want a waterlogged engine block . These are porous parts and need to be treated with patience and respect . Everyone have a nice day and I thank you all for your time and input
     

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  2. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 6,401

    catdad49
    Member

    Slow and Steady Wins the Race.
     
  3. pwschuh
    Joined: Oct 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,827

    pwschuh
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ATF + acetone works a treat to break stuff loose.
     
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  4. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,174

    Budget36
    Member

    So I’ll ask, why do you call the engine Freddie?
     
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  5. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

     
  6. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Two thoughts hit my mind as I looked at the motor . First was the engine looking like it came from a Flintstones cartoon and I want to make Freddie run tops with adequate power and there was a racer named Fast Freddie in the '80s so Flathead Freddie kind of stuck and I do name all the cars I've built so the 32 Tudor will be named the same
     
  7. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Thought I sent a reply sorry for delay . The engine reminded me of the Flintstones because it's just a solid rock of metals and I want to give the engine adequate power and thought of Fast Freddie who was a good racer in the 80s . The Tudor the engine will go in will carry the name . I name all the cars I build
     
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  8. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Yes you are right and so many parts are worth all the effort you can muster
     
  9. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    I've heard of this and one of the penetrant soak solutions I am using is Marvel Mystery with Castrol 10-30 a non detergent oil . There is a belief that acetone can stay in the block due to high porosity and hinder oil effectiveness but I doubt that would occur after a good hot tank session . It's an interesting subject cause some poor guys motors after rebuilds are only good for 35k miles . I will look for acetone for other steel projects though and it sounds economical so thank you for your sound advice
     
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  10. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Hi everyone we thank you for the support and here is Freddie today after 129 hours and about 1300 in Freddie's own toolbox and supplies . Yes all valve assemblies are out also . Here are today's pictures . Thank you and have a great day and keep your foot in it
     

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  11. You’re getting there man,,,,,keep on it !

    Tommy
     
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  12. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Thank you and true elation today . Next is to drill out the wristpin boss on underside of pistons so can remove rods . Also building a tool to attach to cam at sprocket to start jiggling and vibrating cam . Little here and little there then a nice hot tank and maybe magnaflux we will see after I wet chalk the block after a thorough hand sanding and brushing . Water jackets are sublime and giving up golden flakes regularly . Have one small surface crack on mid deck between water port and head bolt . It's 3/16 long and 10 microns deep at the moment I'm confident so far concerning cracks but of course will magnaflux when at machinist Have a good evening and thank you I've been reading on your CM haven't been thru all the thread yet but congrats ! One day we will hit the highway that will be cool !
     
  13. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Hi Everyone , hope all are doing fine and Freddie has been soaking and tapping for two weeks so as a reminder this project has rules still : No heat or hot tanks or electrolosis and saving rods is a main goal factor so just started up again got a lifter to slide a 1/4 " so that makes the fifth one to soon come out or be out so cam still froze but took delight in idler gear movement today . Inner bosses of oil pump froze still I bypassed that for now and went for the rods and first time I've used a sawsall on pistons and am happy so long as I'm steady with it so drilled out two pistons then slotted around the wrist pin bosses to weaken them up so all is back to green light thank you and have a good and healthy day
     

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  14. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Hi everyone ! Picked up a lady pal for Freddie today I think they are about 6 months apart so we will see so meet Flo .
    Have a nice evening
     

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  15. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Hi Everyone ! Great to be back at it with Freddie after a 2 week bout with this stuff the doctor called Pharangitis . Got Covid tested and that's A-OK so I sawsalled and drilled some more around the pin area then got out my cordless die grinder with an aluma bit and it really chews up nicely and quickly . Gotta set the bit into the work first then turn it on about 7 to 10 thousand rpm to create a seat for the bit then let it rip on full 25 thousand rpm till it bounces eating away the pin bosses . You can see a frightful scar on the cylinder lip and only hit the ridge with the SawsAll . Guess if I wanted to I'd create a protectants ring but I believe these are God's engines if anybody's and I do have some dexterity still . So even after soaking since May the rings still show dry rust . Hope to get this rod out intact by end of day . Now I am an open hacksaw and chisels the ring crown is crumbling just fine I will update at end of day . Those are piston pieces in the bag in the picture . Everyone stay safe eat your oranges and definitely keep your foot in it
     

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  16. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Happy as can be used six hacksaw blades the Starrett blades cut well but break easily on a open hacksaw and the Master Mechanics cut a little slower and only bend for awhile before breaking and the aluma bit is a little chewed due to wrist pins and the keepers and a little on the rings . Used a real Stainless dental pick to work on the rings and a 1/4" chisel . Used a variety of tools for this and worked out good so far . This cylinder #3 is the first one done and others should go a little quicker . Probably spent 8 - 11 real hours on this cylinder and still have a piston carcass imbedded in there . Haven't used any heat and only the SeaFoam Deep Creep except back in May I made a mix of Marvel/Deep Creep/10-30 . The Kobalt 24v die grinder worked well but I think the collet bunches loose to early but instructions do say to check it frequently and I did put alot of force on it and it has a built in light real nifty and shuts down when something isn't right . In the pictures I'll show the aluma bit casing it is supurb get my bits from a local Machine Supply House , told them what I'm restoring and the man said he has everything I need for the project and that makes things easier with all the availability limitations going on . So my elation is that Freddie is a stoke bore engine with great cylinder wall so looks like I no overheating or scuffing so quality of casting is great ! Have a nice evening Everyone and stay healthy and happy
     

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  17. Looks good Freddie ,
    As long as the block is good,,,,,,you can find just about everything else new .
    Also,,,,millions of used parts available as well .

    Tommy
     
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  18. big john d
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 366

    big john d
    Member
    from ma

    only mix what you will use shotrly the acetone evaporates very quick no mqtter how you seal it
     
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  19. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Thank
    Thank you for the tip on usage , knowledge like this can make a difference between success and failure
     
  20. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Hi Everyone , been working on Flo so now I know I'm going to reassemble her properly ( in hopes of a good compression reading ) , I am now back working on Freddie . Freddie's going to make it I do testify that as fact so getting to the machine shop still seems a light year away but that's how it is . I am adamant on no heat to loosen things up and I got plenty of it 3 ft away . The collapsing of pistons is a little drill work , a little SawsAll work and alot of open hacksaw and careful chisel hammed work and fine with me I don't have to risk Covid at the gym for awhile . So just collapsed and removed the first piston cylinder 3 and did that by hacksawing a coupon from the piston skirt until a tap or two with a chisel set in vise grips moved the coupon around like a loose tooth then I grabbed the corner of the piston with a REAL stainless dental pick and worked in a grap till a small prybar for in and collapsed it all then happily and carefully worked it out towards the top of the block not the bottom of the block . I have heard a few grief stories on guys that lost their engines by knocking pistons out the bottom so I don't chance it . So here are the cylinder pictures of cylinder # 3 and I have also been working on #4 . Its #1 and #2 got worse of damage so hoping they just crumble easier and save cylinder walls and rods . Thank you , have a nice day and keep your foot in it
     
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  21. Got a couple of locked solid Freddies myself. Observing your progress hoping to learn by your success. Build-able flatheads are disappearing.
     
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  22. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Here's the pictures
     

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  23. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Hi , thank you and the mission here is to help us understand as time progresses so does damage and processes have to change with new patterns which we have to deal with instead of " another one for the scrap pile . " . My uncle was a engine building legacy and when I got my first flathead at twelve he made sure I understood not to throw hear into just an area of the block but to heat the complete block and who is going to do that and still have a flying chance of cracking . Even cool down process has to be monitored it's not a luxury at home or in a shop . So to bypass the science of heat and it's risks here we are and since the last post here is cylinder # 4 so far and the tools I used today . Looks like I need another chisel
     

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  24. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Nothing fancy in this work station
     

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  25. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Hi Everyone , hope everyone's week is starting good and I find enough of you are showing interest allowing me to detail how I am removing these piston assys from a flattiethat has stock bore and been in outdoors no coverage and no carb , oil filler cap and missing 2 spark plugs . So here are the beginning steps in pictures now for cylinder 4 and drilling out the top of cylinder 2 . You can see the drill cavity above the wrist pin on the right hand how after drilling I chisel off chunks of the pin boss . Recall that last process was cross cutting pin boss area so makes easier to chisel chunks off without risk of cracking block or sending vibrations towards the deck area where cracking can occur by sneezing on the block . Saving rods and cylinders is still the goal here . I also removed a coupon from the piston skirt on #4 and you can see rust on complete cross sectional of where skirt coupon was removed . Also pictured are today's tools , that a DeWalt black and gold series 1/2 "foot long drill bit for deep cylinder reach and for final cut on skirt coupon decided to use a Stanley 24 tooth hacksaw blades so saves cylinder wall from gouging . Everyone have a nice evening and keep your foot in it .
     

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  26. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Ok just tapped on the pin area and noticed movement of the piston assembly so it's real loose since removing a coupon now so having it is collapsing nicely on its own just enough to drive out the bottom ( taboo overcome due to removal of coupon ) . Tapping lightly with a small prybar and easy does it one side tap other side tap . Great ! Did this cylinder in about 6 hours total labor about 4 and a half ! Now definitely going to have a nice evening and you also !
     

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  27. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Hope Everyone having a nice day or best you can , continued on cylinder #2 and anyway you want seems safest way is how I've been doing by caving in the top of piston chunking it off and SawsAll for weakening pin bosses then sawing out a coupon with SawsAll then open hacksaws . Cylinder #2 was one of Freddie's worst and this coupon I had to remove in pieces and really took it to the limit using force and yes I did use more penatrant in middle of operation let it set on as I removed the rest of the oil pump stuck in the block . It's all about penetrant and tapping and repeating till when . So after SawsAll to cut the skirt I used the open hacksaws one with an 18 tooth and a finishing one at 24 tooth . You may think you hit the block when your sawing through the rings but you remain parallel to the cylinder with the blade and you will know when you've broken through by the sliding effect on you hit the cylinder wall . Also I'll Attack the first half inch then make complete length cuts then small areas again . Also used a foot long DeWalt blade 14 tooth on the SawsAll and when starting used real low RPMs just let it take it's time and dig in this ain't muffler shop work and it will turn out fine .
    Now as for going out the bottom on cylinders 2 and looks like also #7 the skirts are going to hit the center beam of the block where the center main bearing is and I just sawed a couple 5/8 deep slices in 2 spots on the skirt then broke of theee pieces of the bottom of the skirt and that gave me my clearance to wiggle the piston assembly out of the block . You can see this skirt looks the most foul of the three removed it's intake runners was rusty and if you had a twenty year enema in you this is probably what you'd look like to . Have a great day Everyone and keep that foot in it !
     

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  28. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,174

    Budget36
    Member

    Might be too late for you, but I had a 218 Dodge with stuck pistons for who knows how long. Soaked them for weeks, no love.
    I took a holesaw and cut out a 1/2 piece of steel about the size of the bore.
    Used my air chisel and kept rattling the piss out of the pistons. I was lucky enough that it stuck in a way that I could get all the rod bolt nuts off and give the crank some slack. I was bound and determined to not bust them up.
    Good thing I didn’t charge myself an hourly wage;)
    Not sure if it would work on a Ford FH though, I recall the pistons have a dome on them.
     
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  29. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

     
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  30. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Here is coupon on number one . Working from top and bottom with hacksaw and this coupon just flew out with a 1/4 " cold chisel
     

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