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Technical Triangulated 4 link on 29 roadster

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Doug Sonnenberg, Oct 13, 2021.

  1. Doug Sonnenberg
    Joined: Dec 10, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Doug Sonnenberg
    Member

    Question for you all?

    Im building a 29 chrysler roadster with a triangulated 4 link from welder series on a ford 9".
    Im running 30" rear tires, my frame is level, i have 4" from top of rearend to bottom of frame for clearance. Im installing the lower bar bracket and it says it has to be 5" below center of diff. If i do that my bracket is only gonna be about on inch onto the frame (see first pic). So i guess my question is do i just weld an addition to this bracket and put it in place or am i missing something? Seems kinda low. See pic 4 for the lower bar diagram
    2nd question
    I have a shortened 9inch rearend with the pinion centered so my center is off a bit. Im installing the upper bars. Do the brackets that mount to the axle housing have to be in the exact same location on each side of the housing or can they be in different spots on each side of the housing as long as they are centered to the frame. See pics 2 and 3
    I know i can reverse the upper bars as another option. 20211013_192603.jpg 20211013_192231.jpg 20211013_191806.jpg 20211013_193908.jpg
     
  2. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,161

    redo32
    Member

    Are you using a '32 Ford frame? That's what the diagram is for. Top bars should be centered on the frame since the pumpkin is offset. Show us a bigger picture of the frame, meaning back up and show us more of the frame.
     
    X38 likes this.
  3. Doug Sonnenberg
    Joined: Dec 10, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Doug Sonnenberg
    Member

    Its the stock 29 chrysler roadster frame that im using. Here are some pics of the frame and what i got going on. Ya the diagram i think is generic or for a 32 frame..not sure its just what they sent. I know the lower bars are to be level and parallel to the ground. 20211013_200340.jpg 20211013_200355.jpg 20211013_200541.jpg 20211013_200432.jpg



     
  4. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,161

    redo32
    Member

    Hang on! I'm a West Coaster & I'm going to give you a bad time. It sets too HIGH. Are you using coilovers on the rear? Looks like a Ford front crossmember, transverse spring and a dropped axle I presume. Drop the front down about ride height, that will move the bracket up a little. The lower four bar is traditionally parallel to the ground. A little bit of angle won't cause any major problems. Drag racers have adjustable brackets and they adjust them to change the way the car launches. I would probably split the difference & mount the bracket 1/2 way and put re-enforcement on back side . Looks like your keeping the running boards so the bracket won't hang down.
     
    brandon likes this.

  5. Doug Sonnenberg
    Joined: Dec 10, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Doug Sonnenberg
    Member

    Ha ha im sure everyone is gonna hate on me but i want this roadster to sit a bit higher...kinda gasser/drag car looking. See pics below of my style.

    Yes im using coilovers. I did put a 32 ford crossmember on the front of my 29 chrysler so i can run the single leaf , straight axle and radius rods. My 4 link rods are all adjustable. It will be full fendered. I wasnt sure if running my lower bars angled up towards the front would comprimise the ride. Thanks for the input.

    Heres another thought, how much clearance are you guys giving the top of the rear axel to the bottom of the frame? I have mine at 4" of clearance, is that too much?

     

    Attached Files:

  6. brandon
    Joined: Jul 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,368

    brandon
    Member

    Set it at desired ride height and build the suspension in from there... Front and back.
     
    Tman likes this.
  7. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 527

    grdra1
    Member

    Your upper bar mounts will end up at different locations on housing to keep bars same length and centred in frame due to offset pumpkin. Glen P1010283.JPG
     
  8. Doug Sonnenberg
    Joined: Dec 10, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Doug Sonnenberg
    Member

    Right on thanks. So how much clearance should i have between top of my axle and bottom of frame in the rear suspension. Im running coil obers. How much up and down movement is there in a 4 link? I have mine at 4" clearance but im wondering if 3" is enough. That way i could move my lower bar brackets up a bit

     
  9. Doug Sonnenberg
    Joined: Dec 10, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Doug Sonnenberg
    Member

    Alright here is what im doing to solve my problem with having to mount the lower bar brackets in the proper position. Im making a plate to weld to the bracket and then i will weld the whole thing to the inside frame. Here are some pics 20211014_095233.jpg 20211014_095658.jpg 20211014_095725.jpg
     
  10. Doug Sonnenberg
    Joined: Dec 10, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Doug Sonnenberg
    Member

    I changed up my bracket design, i realized that my upper bar mount was going to hit it. So heres the new bracket i made for my lower bar frame mount. I did this because the mount i ordered has to set below the frame and i needed some more support to mount to the inside of the frame. 20211014_180842.jpg 20211014_181607.jpg
     
  11. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,602

    fastcar1953
    Member

    Why not c notch the frame? The picture shows it. Weld the brackets to frame get everything set then notch frame for clearance. screenshot_2014_10_17_16_58_29_1_826075c041af72d8d9b4d64e77ab60f40d035a01.png
     
  12. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 527

    grdra1
    Member

    Your coil overs will determine how much travel you need, take the spring out and measure how much they compress. Glen
     
  13. Doug Sonnenberg
    Joined: Dec 10, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Doug Sonnenberg
    Member

    I though about c notch, but my rails are only 3" thick where it would be notched. So it didnt make sense. Plus i have about 5" of rise from the bottom of my frame to where the rear rails rise up. I plan on preceeding with the brackets i made. I think it will work out for what im doing. I may just move the axle up a bit. I currently have about 4" of clearence from the top of my axle to bottom of frame rail. Im going for a high stance style build. Plus im running 30" rear tires Screenshot_20211015-071435_Gallery.jpg


     
  14. WelderSeries
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 768

    WelderSeries
    Alliance Vendor

    Hi Doug. Looks like you got it sorted out. We would have been happy to help over the phone or via email.
    Other customers have used 2x3 or 2x4 tubing, mitre cut at the front and back and boxed, welded to the bottom of the rail. Your solution looks fine to me, but I'd consider adding two gussets between the bottom of the rail and the plate.
    Like someone else said, the coil over stroke will determine whether you need additional clearance between the axle tube and the frame rail. To me, it looks like you'll have plenty as-is, but I'd want to confirm it with a tape measure. We do have a product that installs in the place of your coil overs and lets you build the card at the designed ride height: https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Right-Height-Vehicle-Set-Up-Tool-p83035424
    There are also 40 pictures on the product page which can help get eyes on some other installations: https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Triangulated-Rear-Four-Link-Kit-p49926314
    Thanks for using our parts.
    DW Horton
     
    Tman likes this.
  15. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,857

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    I just built entirely new brackets myself when I built my own frame and and 4 link. Also offset the upper brackets on the housing to get my arms at proper angles.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Doug Sonnenberg
    Joined: Dec 10, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Doug Sonnenberg
    Member

    Thanks for the info. Yes you guys are great help and excellent service. I am always researching and like to get multiple resources and answers to solve problems. I have looked at all the pictures on your site. Thanks again

     
  17. Doug Sonnenberg
    Joined: Dec 10, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Doug Sonnenberg
    Member

    Those are nice brackets you made

     
  18. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 986

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    I'd be more inclined to set your angles based on your goals, than trying to get them parallel.
    5" below the centerline and 0 degrees might be perfect, or might not be ideal for your setup.
    With a triangulated setup you will still get articulation on bumps and curbs, when they aren't parallel.
    Here's the one I use..
    https://www.baselinesuspensions.com/instant-center_general.php
     

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