It's a pretty good article. Just because you're older doesn't mean you're wrong. Sorry, I think I meant,just because it's older... just needs a bit of updating.
Yes, interesting, if still current and valid. So, he says the knock against using diesel is the detergents displace some of the ZDDP getting to the cam lobes. I have several diesels, and have been using that oil in gas engines (the no S rated if I have it), along with a shot of Lucas ZDDP. Also have dedicated flat tappet oil (Brad Penn, ZR1) I use in the expensive stuff (blown flathead with big cam). Article also mentions the difference between stock engines with mild cams and valve springs vs. much heavier loaded high performance cams and springs.
I still use plain old 10w/30 in my old stuff. I recently broke in the new 360 (flat tappet cam) in my Fargo with plain old motor oil, not diesel oil, not fancy oil or additives, just cheap old oil. (no one tell it that won’t work please)
And don't tell it to the camshaft maker if you have a problem, as every one I have seen recommends high zinc oil. Who made the cam and what specs? If it's mild with stock springs you may be OK.
There are a host of factors that determine longevity of a new cam and oil is just one of them. cam lube break-in rpm valve spring pressure how quick the start is vs grinding on the starter proper ramp on the cam lobe, new or regrind You get the idea. As to oil, I'd suggest a 15-40 marked as CK-4 which is still a current product. JMHO
So far in my favor, in all the engines I’ve built I haven’t changed anything, it’s what works for me. It’s a 268 Competition Cams camshaft, I would have to look up exact specs. My point was I think people worry a lot about somethings that maybe don’t require as much worrying. Again it works for me, use whatever your comfortable with. I have a big block with a bigger camshaft and stiffer springs for the convertible next year, I’ll do it again.
Hey since you're from Canada as well thought I'd pass along what I do, I order all my oil from https://www.performancepartscanada.ca/Joe-Gibbs/folder/6275 for my 327 in my A. I just go with the joe gibbs 10w30 HR2, as recommended by my engine builder. Either way these guys do free shipping, which is great since my selection around town for engine oil and GL4 trans oil is non-existent.
Once you start getting into the 120-130 lbs. of seat pressure I'd be looking into at least a good break-in oil for initial startup and also remove the inner spring / dampener. If you don't, your kind of rolling the dice I would think.
Can you not order what you want from the U.S. and have it shipped? Even Walmart delivers across borders.
If you want to triple your costs I guess you could. One jug of motor oil from Speedway that costs $29.00 would cost a minimum of $44 to ship plus all applicable duties and brokerage fees if they would even ship it. Most companies will not ship Motor Oil over the border as it is too much of a hassle.
Like 57 Fargo, I use whatever name brand 10W-30 is on sale. I rebuilt the 312 in my T-Bird about 12 years ago. I've put about 20K miles on it with no problem. I think I may have put some zinc additive in it once maybe 4 or 5 years ago. I treat the 401 in my coupe the same way. Same with my 64 C20. They get an oil change about once a year. It seems to have worked okay for me.
I’m going to roll the dice on my oil that won’t work with a flat tapper cam again this morning, I’m going to put 100 or so miles on the truck driving it to work. I still haven’t told the engine it won’t work….hopefully it doesn’t find out from someone else…..
Oh I don’t even remember what brand… I’m not the least bit worried it won’t be fine. I’ve put several thousand miles on the convertible with plain old oil and it’s doing just fine, I’ve put almost 1000 miles on this engine and it’s perfectly fine. I have run plain old oil in everything old I’ve ever had, never had a cam failure on anything whether it was a new engine or a used one.
Yup I did. I would have to go find the empty jug…like I said I don’t worry about it much. Even our crappy oil is better then what we had not that long ago.
I' ve made this same point many times myself. I agree that people worry too much about it, in general, but I also realize that a lot of people have had failures. I used to blow it off completely as all being b.s. but I was assured by a guy in the business that I have a lot of respect for, that has formulated engine oils for some championship winning funny cars and top fuel diggers, as well as for championship winning Formula 1 and Indy Car, who assured me that the low zinc issue was a real problem and camshaft failures due to it were a real problem. While a guy with a stock, or near stock, old car doesn't need anything special; those with aggressive cams probably should be concerned. But yeah, you're right, modern low zinc oils are far better in many ways than the oils available when these pre-1965 engines were new, and the zinc compounds used have several decades of development behind them and are far better than the old stuff. Still, the only thing it hurts by using the higher grade oils if you don't need them is your wallet, and as far as costs go, in this hobby motor oil is one of the cheapest things we have to buy. So you pay a little more for a good oil, it's not going to make much of a difference, not when it costs 50 bucks to fill the gas tank. You know, I take your same attitude with me about guitar strings. I get on guitar related forums and I see people talk about the strings they use with a lot of passion about their choice and why. I'm the guy that just buys whatever strings are on sale, other than the gauge I don't care about brand. That's sacrilegious to a lot of guys. Oh well, it works for me.
Ok, this is gonna hurt a little. Based on old advice and a link from @Blues4U I tend to open my phone when I'm at the store and look up the UPIA (?) specs of the oil. I found that several of the "bargain" oils like Wally World SuperTech and Tractor Supply Traveller brands have a the right additive packages for our old engines in almost all cases. It's also nice that most are a whole lot less than name brands. Traveller has 1280-some ppm ZDDP and is about $3.00 less than Rotella for the same amount. Actually the proper rating as referenced above is the place to start for choice. I don't know who's packaging Walmart oil but I read somewhere years ago it was a top tier refinery. Has that changed? I dunno, Tractor Supply is closer and handy so it's been a minute. Just tell people you spend a lotta $$$$$ on oil if lube snob is in ya, but good oil is good oil is good oil no matter what color the jug is. Am I just a parrot spitting popular urban legend? No. I make oil choices for engines in cars worth up to 6 and 7 figures. I can't afford mistakes. And I think oil is one of the last vestiges of fierce brand loyalty, which can sometimes fall into lube snob territory. Your results may vary, tax n title extra, no purchase necessary, void where prohibited, see your retailer (or the UPIA) for details...
That's my take on it too, not to mention the time and cost of engine builds. Cheap insurance, particularly with hipo cams and springs. The failures are documented, as are the recommendations from the cam companies, pro engine builders, oil makers.. Not all cams will fail obviously. Not all houses burn down but I still carry insurance. All that said, I'm diligently trying to spend down the IRA I spent a lifetime saving.
@Blues4U hey, I got a question. how many oil refineries are there ? Or companies that produce engine oils ? At work , and over the years I’ve used a whole bunch of different brands of oil, red pail , blue, yellow, orange, green, black, black with a yello lid, yellow with a black lid, etc etc. Walmart does not have there own refinery, neither does tractor supply, and all the house brands out there. so unless your buying a high end , or application specific oil. I have always assumed it’s all coming from one of a couple suppliers just in a different pail, jug, truck load etc. am I wrong in thinking this ? I say this as at work we deal with an Aresol packaging company, and one of the guys was telling me they package a penetration oil for about 10 different companies and it’s all the same lube in the can just a different sticker, only one that’s a different product was Wurth.
There may be a only a few refineries producing oil which is probably true but the larger brand name oils more than likely have their own additive package which would make them uniquely their own.
Don’t get me wrong guys, I’m not discounting the science or others experiences. However cam failures have been happening long before I started doing this stuff. And just because I haven’t lost a cam yet doesn’t mean I never will….I did read somewhere, may have been here, that zinc coating on parts only builds to a certain thickness so more doesn’t necessarily mean better, @Blues4U can correct me if I’m wrong, I’m my opinion regular oil changes to replenish the zinc and other additives is more beneficial then higher zinc content in the oil. Again no one has ever accused me of being smart…. Remember when leaded gas went away? Our old engines weren’t going to survive that either.
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