Shell Rotella T

I'm using Shell Rotella T 15w40 conventional in my 60 Corvette (327 V8) as it was recommended on the Corvette forum as the oil closes to what the engine used in the 1960s.

However this year Shell Rotalla T 15w40 conventional is not available anywhere locally (Halifax, Nova Scotia) due to the issues this year with the refineries in Texas.

I was told by a local vendor the closes to Shell Rotella T is Valvoline All Fleet 15w40.

Anyone use Valvoline All Fleet 15w40 in their car? Or any recommendations on a similar oil?

Thanks kindly...

 

You could just use a quality 10w30 ( you probably don't need 15w40) & add one of the zddp additives ...

 

There have been test done in days past that seem to indicate that the 'additives' do not stay suspended in the oil which questions effectiveness.
I'd just use the 15-40 as 'most' are formulated for heavy duty use and include a bit more zinc.

 

Valvoline VR1 is pretty easy to find

 

I use Lucas Hot Rod oil in my 327. No issues so far 8+ years.

https://lucasoil.com/products/hot-rods-classic-cars/hot-rod-classic-car-10w-30-motor-oil

 

Second Hotrodmyk. Lucas Hot Rod oil can be had in different weights and has the necessary level of zinc for flat tappet engines. Order online.

 

Thanks kindly. Apparently the local CarQuest shops sell Lucas but it is a special order item. Thanks kindly for the tip.

 

I've posted several times on this topic, but here goes again.

There are several versions of Shell Rotella T, and they aren't all the same. When it comes to modern diesel engine oils they can be a great engine oil for classic car engines, but you need to be careful, because the latest API specifications place new limits on phosphorus and zinc levels IF the product is co-licensed as a commercial product (CK-4) and a passenger car product (SN). If the product carries both licenses than it must meet the low phosphorus and zinc levels required for the SN license. Shell Rotella T5 does not carry the SN license, it is CK-4 only. That's a good oil for classic car's, it will have zinc levels around 1200 - 1400 ppm. However, Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection carries the SN license, so the zinc will be capped at around 800 ppm max. Get it? You have to look at the product data sheet, which almost all lube companies make available on the interwebs, do a search for the data sheet and read it for the licenses. Rotella T5 - Good. Rotella T4 - Bad.

You mentioned Valvoline All Fleet 15W-40, that product carries the SN license, you don't want to use that, zinc will be limited to the SN license limit.

Note, it's getting harder to find diesel engine oils that aren't carrying the SN or other passenger car oil license (passenger car licenses all start with S followed by another letter, commercial engine oils start with a C, followed by another letter and usually the number 4, i.e. CJ-4, or CK-4). If you can find an older oil that is CJ-4 (not CK-4) than that will most likely have higher zinc levels (~1200 - 1400 ppm). For instance Castrol GTX Diesel is CJ-4, it has the higher zinc levels.

Kendall Super-D XA Diesel Engine oil 15W-40 is a good one, note that it is semi-synthetic.

Also, if you're near a Komatsu heavy equipment dealer, their Komatsu EO 15W-40 LA engine oil is another good one, no SM license.

Hope that all helps

 

On another note, another option is Castrol GTX Classic 20W-50 is another high zinc motor oil,

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/unite...oil-brands/castrol-gtx-brand/gtx-classic.html

 

I use Valvoline VR1. No problems!

 

I use the same stuff, order it by the case so I have it in stock when I need it

 

Thanks for keeping us up to date like you do.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Much appreciated.

 

Hey Blues, any opinion on 73RR's comment above regarding the ZDDP additives not staying in suspension?

 

There are indeed several types of "Rotella", you have to be careful- Tractor Supply sells Rotella, and you will find several types, not all suitable for your hot rod flat tappets. O'Reilly's usually has VR1 on the shelf

 

I’ve been using Amsoil high zinc in my solid lifter 265.

 

Mobil 1 has a 5w-40 diesel truck oil with 1300 ppm of zinc. Somewhat pricey, but it is full synthetic.

 

Here a decent read from an industry magazine:
ZDDP: When, Where, What, Why, How? - Engine Builder Magazine

 

I f&@$ing hate oil threads.

Life sure was simpler when oil came out of a yellow can. 10w-30, and antifreeze was green, as God intended.

You kids get off my lawn!

 

That info is from 2012 , hopelessly outdated .

 

...I said 'decent'....not a be all-end all thesis...
I would put this in the same category as old cam catalogues; good background info.
Feel free to post up something current on the subject.

 

He has been pretty clear on his thoughts about using any additives in the past. Don't use them. They mess up the chemistry of the oil that the oil company has spent a lot of time and money designing to work as intended.

 

Another oil thread ?
There will be blood !!

I’ve never given oil much thought , pick a name brand , 10-30 , diesel , additive , I’ve done royal purple racing oil , penzoil , zinc additives etc. I just change my oil frequently and don’t pay it much mind.

 

I know, some of these guys take this too far; act like these simple, old engines, that have been functioning fine for decades, are the latest Formula 1 technology.

 

I use Mobil 1 5w-40 Diesel synthetic in my GMC race engine and Lucas 10-30 Hot Rod in my Y-Block. Both have flat tappet cams. The GMC valve springs are 130 and I never seen wear on the cam or lifters.

 

Yes, that is still my opinion.

As far as additives falling out of suspension, I don't know. Additives are what we call "solubilized" in the oil. Zddp is a chemical not a solid like moly or graphite, so once blended into the oil it should remain stable under normal conditions. How well an aftermarket additive really gets solubilized into an engine oil in the crankcase is questionable I suppose, I've not seen any tests on it, but I would hope the manufacturers have done their testing. I do think there can be compatibility issues with adding random additives into various fully formulated lubricants, but I think if the zinc gets fully blended into the oil at temperature, it should be fairly stable, but that's just a gut feeling, I don't have any information either way.

 

If I was someone offering information , I'd try diligently to provide up-to-date current , useful information .

 

Any oil is better than no oil……

 

I dunno

 

I had a 69 Dodge pickup with a 440 that had over 150 thousand miles on it and all it ever got for oil was 40W Valvoline run of the mill oil....And as far I know it is still running....