So a new idle screw may be the solution? The missing tip on the idle screw is enough for it to not stay idling/run at all versus it just making it idle like sh*t?
I’m no expert but if you cant adjust the idle mixture correctly it idles like crap. May even struggle to stay running at idle.
nosford- Thank you for the reply. Yes, the hole in between the nozzles and below/next to the silver screw. Yes, fuel will come out of that hole/plug only when I move the throttle (the nozzles are clear and squirt fuel well). Ok, maybe I'm missing the check ball. And, the fact that it will not stay running/idling for more than a few seconds (guessing that's based on the amount of fuel I pour in the carb), it wouldn't have anything to do with the floats? Bad floats or wrong float level would only cause a stumble and/or hesitation, but that's after it can stay running/idling?
First issue is you said you just rebuilt it when all you did was hose it off. Get a kit and rebuild it. Do it right.
The missing check ball would cause a stumble or hesitation, the other issue of idle and running like shit is something OTHER than the check ball so like I said I think you have at least TWO problems. And yes, the broken off mixture screw tip would cause a poor idle by itself.
Contact carbking here on the HAMB. He can fix you up. Going to a parts store without an exact application or tag won't get you far.
Ok, I'll get a new mixture screw and confirm the check ball is there. I remember a check ball fell out when I was cleaning the carb, but that was the accelerator pump one. I think the other check ball is held in place or at least unable to fall out with the help of a little rod pinged in. I appreciate the advice.
I thought where could that tip have gone??? Sucked up into the motor? When I disassembled and cleaned the carb I didn't see it or any blocked passages, but I could have missed something...thank you!
There are online sites that sell the older RP parts and kits. If you have a kit, you'll have a diagram that will show you if it takes a simple check ball under the squirter. Otherwise you'll have to improvise. I would guess that it'll run better with that hole plugged, rather than open all the time. Yes, you'll have to see if the tip is stuck in the idle passage.That side won't work at all if it is. Again a slightly different replacement will work better than a plugged hole. Hate to say this but Google is your friend..in this case.
No..probably wouldn't pass through that way. Maybe when you took it apart and cleaned it and maybe blew it out.. Could have been missing for a long time..I doubt you are the first owner ;-)
You should be able to stall the engine by running the idle mixture screws in. Never force em. Just a light snug. The last one of those I built the accelerator pump rod was not the correct length. Checked and corrected by bending it. Totally changed the carb. Your rebuild kit, repair manual or online can give you the length. Also make sure the base gasket it sealed. I had a tiny leak on mine.
Thank you, Mark...I'm going to get a kit and a new idle screw. I think I'll take it apart now and start looking while I'm waiting for the kit. Yes, and YouTube.
Ok, I appreciate the info. Hopefully I did blow it out. I rebuilt the carb years ago and never had this problem, so I'm thinking a few months ago when I was messing with the mixture screws I forced one in too much.
Yes, I probably forced that one in a bit too much. I believe the accelerator pump was an exact match when I rebuilt it a few years ago. I make my own gaskets, but I think I may have an older manufactured one...they is definitely a difference.
Now I'm thinking that little rod (it's located in the center of the bottom half of the carb, I know probably a bad explanation) that I thought was there to hold a check ball in place is actually the tip of that mixture screw in a passage...I need to take it apart.
As others have mentioned, idle adjustment would be impossible with the pictured screw. I would be looking for the missing point as a part of the rebuilding process. It may be stuck in the lower idle port of the throttle body, in which case it could damage a new needle. It could also be jammed somewhere in the lower idle circuit, which would prevent proper idle adjustment with a new screw. Throttle body should be removed, and compressed air blown through all passages in both directions. This should be standard procedure with any rebuild, but is particularly important in this instance. As to the idle mixture screw itself, they come in the better carburetor rebuilding kits; ask the vendor selling the kit. You are going to need the identification number on the tag when you order a kit. Jon.
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