I'm looking for a set of over the frame headers for my 331 HEMI. The ones they have at Hot heads have a boring look to them as does the Sandersons. There's a guy on here that built his own that looked very cool but they are sold. Any leads for me? Thanks
If you know the Look you want, build your own. It's no big deal and you'll really enjoy doing it. The real bonus is they fit the way you want them to. It's a small learning curve as long as you can weld. You never get exactly what you want from out of the box headers.
Speedway sells an over the frame kit. I’ve built several headers using mandrel bends, flange’s and 35/6 driveshaft for the collectors.
As you can see from all the above posted photos hand built makes your project personal not boring. There are a few things to know for a first time builder but if you ask I bet you'll get so much input you will just get to work on them. If you can see them in your Mind your hands can build them.
As Pist-n-Broke says, you won't find great looking headers commercially. This is especially true for oddball engines like your 331. They will all be plain vanilla plus likely have thin flanges and not be equal length.
It never crossed my mind to build a set....I've been searching on line and it does look like a fun build. Icengineworks makes a cool header modeling kit but it's not cheap. Thanks for the idea
Hey.... seeing your set made me want something cooler looking. As I said above..... I think I will give it a shot. Thanks!
Get some 3' pieces of 1/8" steel welding rod. Get the proper 3/8" flanges (not 5/16"), get about 10 180 degree mandrel bends. I like mostly 3" radius bends but might get an assortment of 2" & 3". Might need a straight stick too. as I recall 331 flanges use 1.5" tubing. Finally you need a collector tube. On my 331 I used a 3-bolt muffler flange. I make a wood cradle to hold the collector in position, bolt the flanges in position then bend the wire in the shape for a tube. Go to my Harbor Freight band saw and cut the shapes I need to tack it all together. I am sure there must be a bunch of how-to videos on YouTube leading you thru the process. And it is fun. Finally get them Jet Hot coated. Don't fool with trying to paint them or building stainless steel ones. Jet Hot is bullet proof, needs zero maintenance and last forever. Or at least 'til they haul you off to Trembling Hills and who cares after that!! Don't have how-to pictures but here are a few in progress shots.
We all have different ways to get this job done. Something to know is that there is big difference in materials between suppliers. Wall thickness counts for sure. Thin, or light weight tube makes for a very thin wall on the outside of the bend. If your not a Top Gun welder this can cause Blow Out, specially with a Mig Gun. When installing the 4 tubes into the collector think Gattling Gun. Look at the firing order on each bank and install the tubes in that order, in the circle. That helps with evacuation of the next tube and cleans up the sound a lot. Next and probably most important, Cut Square to radi. center line. This is what keeps the cut end perfectly Round. A Quality saw blade helps. I never use a Wavy tooth blade, they always make Beveled cuts.
I've been buying exclusively for 30 years from.spdexhaust.com Reason being is Quality control. Also the weld seam on there tube is always on the shoulder so if your wanting specific length/volume you can get an exact measurement. Check out there web sight and look it over good. Might be a little pricy for a first time builder but using the Cheapest stuff will make your job more work than it needs to be.
I just looked around to find something different and one's I thought would still breath good. Of course using a 440 engine broaden my availability for headers I was happy with both looks and fit. These are fender exit headers for a B body but the best part is they are totally out of the way of starter, frame and steering once I get that far...
Make your own. Coathangers & welding rods are cheap. By keeping the design simple, any motivated idiot with help from the HAMB can do it: Details & more pics are here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/introducing-my-fuel-coupe-styled-tudor.132127/page-7
Didn't mention that I like to gas weld my headers. Cleaner and more control, prettier weld than a wire feed. Unless you are a TIG master which means you are way past me! I MIG weld the tubes to the inside of the flange. Also like to gas braze a fillet on the outside of the flange/tube joint for more strength. This video is an ok description of the process.
Mig welding exhaust pipe generally means lot's of blow through and whiskers inside the pipe at each joint. This leads to hot spots and early burn out just at the welds on the top edge. Not Good! I often pressure test each tube before final assembly just for my own peace of mind.
I've been in the same boat for some time now. I've scoured the net looking for what I envision, but haven't quite found it yet, and have about come to the same conclusion of making my own. I even put a list of parts together, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. It was good to read that @willys36 gas welds his, because that's what I would do as well (no mig or tig welder).
Willys....just getting back around to this. dealing with covid.... thank you for the video. I bought a patriot BBC kit and am going to give it a whirl. No tig master here, but my son is so I may tac em and have him finish them. Thanks again
I'm into building a stainless header for a Track T. I have made several sets in the past but never in SS. I'll be practicing TIGing the stainless a bunch before I attempt to do the actual header. Like @willys36 said, I like to braze the outside of the tube to flange. Anyone have thoughts on doing this with stainless (304)? Also, what about ceramic coating just the inside to slow down the colorizing?
I don't understand why but each to their own way. Whatever works for you. I have found it's much easier once the tube is in place 2 very small tacks in the least visible place holds it. Once tacked I use a proper to fit hammer or, and tap the tube tight to the flange plate on the Motor side. Then I do a full I.D. perimeter weld to the flange. Much easier to get a good leak free weld when you can see what you're doing and you're not feeding filler material into the gap between exterior side of the hole. It's the filler material that moves things around. It works for me, and I have never had a leak or warped flange plate. I use the same Tig rod as the material of the system I'm building, S.S. for S.S. mild steel for mild steel. I have never seen the need for Brass fill rod. Notice, No exterior welds at the flange. Much cleaner looking and welded solid on the inside where the heat starts. No burn off starts that leads to a leak at the flange.
I just realized that above photo is before I welded the tubes to the flange. (hadn't had enough coffee yet) The tubes are not welded up yet so would not be fully welded to the flange. Here's a different set of headers showing inside weld and no exterior weld. Rectangle ports mean making the round pipe fit.
So you guys talked me into building my own....glad you did. This started out as a BBC kit which I cut up to fit my hemi. One side all fit up and tacked. The square flange you see before the collector will be removed before the collector is welded on. It's just a place keeper for the 4 tubes.
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