Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical oxalic acid cooling system flush

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by buick bill, Oct 10, 2021.

  1. buick bill
    Joined: Dec 18, 2008
    Posts: 861

    buick bill
    Member
    from yreka;ca

    im trying to get some info on using oxalic acid to flush my cooling system on my 41 . read a old thread but there was no mention of concentration or how long to leave it in . i want to give it one last try and be sure its as clean as is possible and done !
     
  2. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,075

    Beanscoot
    Member

    That used to be the active ingredient in common cooling system flushes, and I recall the last container I had was about six ounces, and recommended driving with it for a few miles to get good and hot. The container had a smaller pack of neutralizer (baking soda?) on its other end.

    So far as I can remember, you were supposed to drain and flush with fresh water after cleaning with the oxalic acid, then refill with water and neutralizer, then finally rinse again with fresh water before changing to the correct antifreeze solution.

    Edit: You were instructed to remove the thermostat for the whole cleaning process.
     
    loudbang and warhorseracing like this.
  3. Ive used CLR and cascade dish washing powder
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2021
    fauj, seb fontana and '28phonebooth like this.
  4. swervyjoe
    Joined: Jun 17, 2014
    Posts: 44

    swervyjoe
    Member

    I used vinegar and evaporust
     
    seb fontana and '28phonebooth like this.

  5. Basically any acid will help dissolve rust (iron oxide) particles. Oxalic acid is also known and found as wood bleach in hardware stores. You can buy it direct as dry powder on Amazon or similar. It is what used to be purchased as heavy duty cooling system cleaner. Neutralizing any acid is a good idea.
     
    '28phonebooth likes this.
  6. buick bill
    Joined: Dec 18, 2008
    Posts: 861

    buick bill
    Member
    from yreka;ca

    i used evaporust but at $25 a gallon and a 4 gal system its a bit expensive .1 gal. diluted didt give the results im after .tried 1 gal .white vinegar to ,wasnt happy with that either . im waiting till its as good as i can get it before i use the green shit . and winter could show up real soon so im wanting to be done once and for all asap !!
     
  7. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,951

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I like a chelation agent (such as Evaporust), but I agree that it is expensive, For situations like this, I use a product called Rust-911, which is a concentrate and is significantly cheaper. When I did the '51 Merc in my Ford club coupe, I treated it with a commercial product first and then flushed it with plain water. I then introduced the Rust-911 solution and let it sit a day. I then drained, treated, and flushed the system a second time, and repeated the Rust-911 process a second time. I then did a final lush and rinse.

    Here's how it turned out :

    Merc block 2.jpg Merc block.jpg
     
    Truckdoctor Andy and loudbang like this.
  8. Harv
    Joined: Jan 16, 2008
    Posts: 986

    Harv
    Member
    from Sydney

  9. At work, we use a product from Fleetgard called Restore Plus. There are two different kinds, be careful which one you choose. It works extremely well. I also suggest removing the thermostat and driving the car for at least an hour. Restore Plus has to be used with water, no antifreeze or coolant.
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.