I was totally unaware of static timing until I owned a vw bug back in the late 60's and after leaning how to do it properly I never picked up the old timing light again. HRP
When I install a distributor I usually set static timing with an ohm meter, spark, or at least by eyeball...then check it with the light after I get it running. It's never exactly right, I always have to adjust it a bit one way or the other. Fortunately in most cases being off several degrees doesn't hurt anything. Driving an old car with a spark lever will teach you that.
On any modified performance engine timing at full advance, and at what RPM it's achieved, are what matters most.
I static timed the mag in the race car. The engine had no pulleys as all accessories were direct drive. We used the dowel hole in the crank adapter and a hole drilled in the in and out box as a window. I was told that when the dowel hole was split in the window that was about 45 degrees BTDC. We were running a fixed mag (no advance) and straight alcohol. I did check the timing a couple of time with a timing light, but that had it's own set of problems. The car had no electrical system other than the mag and kill switch. You had to push start it, pull it to a spot where a battery was setting on the ground, connect the timing light, and lean into the cockpit to see the timing mark setup on the back of the crank. While doing this you are being partially blinded by partially burned alcohol fumes coming from the headers; static timing was much easier.
Sounds familiar. I learned from an old race engine builder how to static time Vertex magnetos using a very thin piece of cellophane between the points. My driver smoked so I was always taking the cellophane off his pack of smokes as he called them. Only thing, make sure to get the cellophane completely out from between the points. It's kind of embarrassing when you push and push and push the car and the engine won't fire. But it works well and you couldn't see any difference between the cellophane timing and using a timing light.
In my book static timing before firing up an engine sure beats just twisting the distributor hither and yon to try to get it started. However, As soon as it is road-worthy I want to "see" what the centrifugal and vac adv are doing, and how steady the timing is. A check of TDC marks vs actual TDC is right in there somewhere. OR, any time thereafter when it ain't runnin' right, or the mileage is a little off, or I start thinking I want a little more powah, or .......
Static timing is a great way to set the timing before initial fire up. A timing light offers so much more information and adds a shred more accuracy. I have a timing light at home and at the shop, along with an ignition scope with timing light and a timing probe (for some later model stuff I never see). A timing light can be used for trouble shooting, and lend accuracy for better performance and maybe even help with mileage if it matters.
I do as @squirrel I set static timing or base timing as I have heard it called , then fine tune with a light.
I used an old analog ohmmeter. You could just see the difference in resistance when the points opened.
I always set the mag in the sprint car doing the static setting. Checked with a timing light a few times and it was dead on so never bothered with the timing light again.
Especially if using light off vs light on. Did that once. My timing was off by 14 degrees (wanted 12 BTDC but read 2 ATDC with timing light). Guess what dwell meter told me. New points were at 28 (hint hint, 14x2=). So if you don't have a dwell meter guess what a test light can do as well?
Best performance is best efficiency, for the most part. There's no performance gain by a mistuned engine, and the timing curve is a big part of that.
Yeah and it's not as embarrassing! And with locked out magnetos and gear drives, the timing light is belt and suspenders.
So I guess we all agree to disagree. This is great! Intellectual recourse and no name calling. In the words of Dave Spivey, "I like it! ". You're going to have to look it up on the web as I am a computer illiterate, and still don't know how to post things like that from the web here... I know, you all can say it.
I've always used the static timing approach by setting things up as close as possible with #1 @ TDC before finalizing the distributor installation/plug wires, etc. Then, out comes the timing light as mentioned to double check things. That said, it's very helpful to be able to diagnose a timing issue without a timing light. You can get very close to a decent initial timing adjustment by just listening to the engine when it cranks, adjust as necessary, and then take it for a drive. A little butt-dyno will get things very close and the engine will tell you what it wants. And as Squirrel has pointed out, anyone who's owned a Model A has done just that with the timing lever on the steering column. Knocking babbitts, as fun as it sounds, is bad! LOL
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