While rebuilding my FE, when I was pressure washing the block on the engine stand I noticed a lot of green deposits were rinsed out of the water jackets. This is after I initially flushed the cooling system while I had been driving it last year. Having worked on engines all of my life, and for awhile professionally. I've noticed a lot of localized corrosion around gasket areas, aluminum water pumps, thermostat housings etc. My question is.... has anyone had any experience with No-Rosion with or without antifreeze in their hot rods? Mine is stored in a heated garage, and isn't driven in temps below freezing. It looks like this product added to RO water is the way to go, drain and refill every couple of years. I've noticed that my 2 year old Alumitech radiator is already forming some deposits inside the tubes with new green antifreeze and distilled water mixed 50/50. Any thoughts?
I useNo-Rosion, 100%distilled water and antifreeze with good results. I also use the paper chemical strips to test the Ph every 6 months. No problems.
I use regular old green glycol based coolant and tap water ( tap water in the GTHA is is not hard and works perfectly fine for cooling systems and battery too ups. anyways , I drain and fill the radiator every year. Not a full flush but 2 gallons in mew water amd coolant on a vehicle that might get driven 10,000 km your pretty much replacing new fluid with new fluid. never had an issue .
Perhaps with more aluminum in the cooling system, there can be more galvanic corrosion issues. (?) >>Note that I'm not an expert so you would be wise to check out the comments I post for yourself.<< The green antifreeze ("the green stuff") in a 50/50 mix is a good bet and I would trust that more than water with an additive. Plus, you never know when you may have an unseasonable, hard freeze at the very time that you aren't able to drain the water or change the mix for some reason. The HOAT type antifreeze ("the orange stuff") is supposed to be better at preventing those corrosion issues. Years ago, when I was on another OT car forum, we had vehicles with aluminum blocks and we discussed the 'orange stuff' a lot. It's been years and my recollection is vague so I don't remember the details of my own experience or if I used it or not. I do remember that the green stuff and the orange stuff are not compatible and it's a big hassle to switch from one to the other. So to change to the other is not a casual hour in the driveway. EDIT: It might be that OAT type antifreeze is incompatible and a major project to replace the green stuff unless you extensively flush, etc. But the HOAT type (The 'H' stands for "hybrid") is possibly a simpler task to switch because it's more compatible. (?) And also, don't rely on the colors of antifreeze to determine the type because the makers don't always agree about that. As I said, I'm not an expert, but the guy working the counter at the auto parts store probably isn't an expert either. So beware and be aware. It's on you to know what you're doing.
The Shift Wizard is in the "right gear" when he says not to mix HOAT antifreeze( orange and pink) with ethylene glycol (green). Here's why, https://kernersvilleautocenter.com/the-dangers-of-mixing-green-and-orange-coolant/
Aluminum radiators are said have more corrosion problems than the historical brass radiators. Maybe look into the zincs or sacrificial anodes.
First I've heard of No-Rosion. Does it come in a gallon, enough to treat several cars? Chain stores carry it?
I Operated steam plants and you never want to use distilled water in cooling system...Pure water is very corrosive....Soft water is okay but never distilled....
And what can soften distilled water, so I don't have to flush it and the gallon of antifreeze I just put in.
Water is a natural solvent....Pure water has no minerals so it becomes very corrosive to get the PH where it needs to be...Soft water contains minerals just not the ones that scale the system...We made demineralized water at the rare earth mine I worked at and one of the guys put it in his aluminum motor and it ate a hole in the block....We made water that was so pure you couldn't read it on conductivity meters because it had all minerals removed for rare earth production...
Dionized water is what all of the antifreeze manufacturers use to mix with their products when you purchase premixed coolants. It is also what they recommend you use if you purchase full strength antifreeze and mix it to 50/50 ratio if you di it yourself. Dionized water can be purchased at tropical fish stores, I've also seen it sold at places that do auto-detailing, and if you cannot find it locally, than reverse osmosis would be next best. What is deionized water? https://waterfilterguru.com/what-is-deionized-water/
Distilled water is good to use when mixing with concentrated antifreeze. RO water is also ok. No-rosion and its aluminum counterpart Hyper-kewl I found at local Walmart. A single 16oz bottle was 7 bucks I think and treated up to 16 quarts of capacity. I just put it in my 59 along with the 50/50 mix. I dont know if it is snake oil or something that will make any difference. For the record, I do have experience with anode rods in industrial vessels. They only work within line of sight. So a cooling system really isnt the best use of them, and the residue of an anode would be abrasive in a cooling system. Chemically is the best way for protection I'd think.
As I recall from a previous thread where this was brought up, it has a higher boiling point, but lower heat transfer properties, so it is less efficient at transfering heat from the engine to the atmosphere. Also, the coolant may not boil, but at some point the pistons are going to start kissing the cylinders, and the head gaskets are going to fail, even if the coolant hasn't boiled.
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