on sale at Woot.com . 20w50. Works out to 3.33 a quart Valvoline VR1 Racing SAE 20W-50 Motor Oil - $19.99 - Free shipping for Prime members https://tools.woot.com/offers/valvo...0-motor-oil-1?utm_medium=share&utm_source=app
Thanks for the heads up. These days it's just too thick for the roller cams I now run in everything. Good deal for flat tappet cam guys.
I may be mistaken but I think it’s Non Detergent . I do think they add Zinc so it could be helpful for our flat cam Flat motors .
Valvoline spec data at this link: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...2d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 Russ
The builder of my Jimmy 302 used it and I kept up the practice with oil changes on 2,000 mile intervals. Had 80,000 miles under the wheels when the head gasket blew. I have it partly disassembled and the rings, valve guides, cam and lifters, etc are still good. I'm a believer.
Where did you fund that info? I found this on the Valvoline website "The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils."
Thanks @Moriarity I was just getting ready to use the last of my stock....what better timing. It said limit 3....any idea if you can do multiple orders?
After a discussion with a Gibbs oil engineer I called what he wanted to know was all the engine clearances, ring package, dry or wet sump, and if it had a vacuum pump. I told him the engines didn’t have roller tappets but a shaft roller rockers. He told me my GMC at Bonneville would be best using 5-20 and the Circle track engine with a 10-30 but he prefer a single weight oil for the CT engine because the temps would be higher. We keep our clearances right at .002” and vacuum pump engine has low tension rings. To make sure the oil passages stay clean on my Y-block I use Lucas hot rod 10-30 because it’s hard to find single 20w which is still recommended. It always gets to operating temp but normal use is 10-20 miles each time it’s driven.
I have run VR-1 20-50 in my blower motor for 12 years. The flat tappet cam and roller rockers love it. Just ordered a case. Thank you sir!
I was lead to believe that racing oil is for race cars and regular oil is for street cruisers.. I use 5W30 Mobil 1 with long Wix filters.. I use it in my Pontiac 462, 400 and 389.. Chevy 454. I had very bad foaming issues with 10W40 Brad Penn oil.. While driving up a long hill (279 North) out of the city, my 454 used to start ticking. Once I pulled over and let it idle for five to ten minutes it would stop ticking. As soon as I went back to 5W30 Mobil 1 all the ticking went away..
I have used VR-1 for years. Now I admit not in hot rods but in Harley V-Twins ranging from shovelheads on up to Twin Cam motors. I also used it in my Flattrack Race bikes. Always worked for me.
Thanks for the heads up @Moriarity 3 cases on the way with $0 shipping courtesy of Amazon Prime. @Bomber1961 Same here. I have a 1976 FLH and a 1979 FXEF I run VR-1 in.
I use Valvoline decals on my rear, side windows. ......'Proven to add 10-12 hp. I was about to pull the trigger on some Rotella 15W-40 for my too-low-oil-pressure-at-idle SBC. Now I have to consider this option.
That says "fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils.", not non-detergent. There is a difference. But in general these oils are intended for short intervals, not your traditional 3k mile oil changes (my new Ford calls for 7500 mile oil changes). Lot's of highway miles would be better than a lot of stop & go city miles. But many of these hot rods don't accumulate that many miles in a season anyway, so it works out OK.
I called Valvoline and asked, about their VR1 "conventional" The man said every 3 months or 2,000 miles or whatever it was. It was the "3 months" that I was interested in, and he was insistent. A lot of people don't always put many miles on their collector cars or hot rods. 4 oil changes a year takes a bit of the savings out of the equation, and oil disposal is a pain anymore.
The Willys in my avatar has a nearly stock 289 Ford that has lived on VR1 10w30 for 80,000 miles over 11 years as my near daily driver. I change it every 3,000 miles, which works out to about twice a year. No Issues.
The viscosity of 20w50 does not allow the lifter to fill quickly enough. I just installed a set of high rpm Morel hydraulic roller lifters. They spec'd no heavier than 5w30.
Sheesh, 3 months? What happens to the oil after that if they only see a few miles? I'm on the once a year plan on most of my junk, they don't get that many miles.