Getting deeper into my 32 Ford roadster (Brookville original style body). I have no problem making door panels and kick panels, but need some guidance on closing off the area behind the seat (which leads to the trunk) - how is this typically done? I had considered bending a "rear firewall" out of aluminum or something. Thanks, Scott
I have a 31 Brookville body and built a frame with a steel bulk head for behind the seat to close of the trunk area as the gas tank sits right behind the seat in the trunk. Its a good idea to have one.
On my Brookville I made a solid sheet metal panel that went from door post to door post in three pieces. I glued it in w body glue and pop rivets. Went floor to top edge. Really strengthened body and sealed off trunk from passenger compartment. Coated it all w lizard skin.
It’s pretty easy to build a frame and put aluminum on it or steel. My gas tank is in the trunk of the A I’m building so I’m going to build a frame around it and a bulkhead also.
I made a roll bar for my roadster and it’s a 6 point and can’t been seen unless you open the trunk. It gives me a point to mount the seatbelts . It also add a little strength to the body with that powerful flathead and unboxed frame.
All good ideas, thanks... For the guys that went door-to-door, did you curve it around? Did you taper it in any at the bottom or is it straight/plumb from top to bottom?
Couple of pictures I found of how I did it. It did taper forward some at the bottom. The two ribs are where I connected the side pieces to the center part. I put a piece of sheet metal angle on the floor to attache the vertical part to. Don,t remember what gauge I used. Probably 16.
That looks very clean for a DIY job... How did you get the gradual bends in the corner? In my experience, 16 gauge does not like to hand bend.
I made cardboard patterns first. I then used a hand box brake at work to make the radius. The radius is smaller on the bottom than the top. While making the cardboard I made a radius gauge also of the top and bottom to use to help when bending the sheet metal. Took a couple of tries to get right. A friend did a similiar job and bent his around an oxygen bottle. He may have used a lighter gauge.
Mine... The sheet metal attaches to the framework with button head screws so it can be easily removed if necessary. Hope this helps.
Thanks... I was thinking that 16 gauge would be pretty difficult to bend by hand. When I ordered the body, I noticed that this rear firewall was one of the options that you could have for extra money... It seemed very abstract at the time, but now in hindsight I wish I'd had them do it. Seems like it would be more doable with aluminum on a steel frame - what do you think about that option?
Aluminum on a steel frame would work, even all aluminum as I glued mine in. My goal was to completely seal the trunk area from the passenger compartment. It's amazing how much heat comes up from the trunk floor. Also wanted to strengthen the body.
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